PRATUNAM CHICKEN RICE

If you ask 10 Bangkok residents where they go for chicken rice you will get at least 10 if not 12 answers. It is like asking for Wanton Noodles in Hong Kong, Ramen in Tokyo, Pak-Gu-Teh in Kuala Lumpur or Hot Dogs in NYC. When it comes to palates and tastes it is personal, very personal in fact because other considerations outside of the specific food itself will come in.

'Kow Mon Kai' or 'Chicken Rice' on Ptetchaburi, however, seems to get a lot of nods so I made the pilgrimage. It is not difficult to find. Start from the Erawan Buddha, walk along Ratchaprarop with the Gaysorn Mall on your right, when you reach the first major intersection, with Phetchaburi, you should see the Pratunam Center dead ahead, make a right, look for the Phetchaburi 30 road sign .... bingo, the stall is right beneath it.

You cannot miss it, there is an army of service staff in uniform and caps. The man with the back to the camera is without any question the 'Boss' who locates himself at the center of traffic. He takes the orders, hands out the appropriate plates, watches over the server on QC, and every Baht collected is handed to him, which he checks and puts into a box. A classic Chinese proprietor at work, a familiar scene here in Bangkok if you peer into Chinese owned stores, especially in Chinatown. Invariably you will see someone wearing that same hat, regardless of the business they are in. Tradition wins here, I guess.

BTW my father told me when I was a teenager the success of Yung Kee back in the 60's had a lot to do with the way the boss ... the late Mr Kam Senior ... cut a goose. 'He is the only one in town who can get 12 plates of roast goose rice from a single goose, and make every order look ample' Dad said. Wise words on an even wiser chef, a businessman who used his head. Why is the Boss sitting opposite the server and watching her like a hawk, there you have it.

A plate of chicken rice with nice liver and giblets, plus a geneorus bowl of chicken & melon soup is Baht 30 or HK$7.5 ..... Forgive me while it was a wonderful experience and gratifying food I must admit I could not differentiate.

A young Thai couple we met over the weekend told us this place has been around for 50 years, at the same spot. It opens as late as 5pm but will stay open until 3-4am, catering to the after hours crowd, like Tsui Wah near LanKwaiFong. This means 'Pratunam Chicken' has witnessed the maturing of 2 generations of party goers, Thais at our age, and their kids who are grown-ups now. Isn't is heart warming? May the tradition go on for many more generations and please, Boss, do not ever change the system that works.