QUOTABLE QUOTES

Heard the following from 2 celebrity TV chefs, worth repeating here;

"I travel, I write, I eat and I am hungry for more!"  ....  Chef Anthony Bourdain
"How did you climb down from being a hero to zero so quickly?" .... Chef Gordon Ramsey

I cannot wait to emulate the 1st, and use the 2nd on someone when the opportunity arises.

PEDIGREES

Like martial arts, the culinary arts take pride in 'pedigrees'. I may be a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu but I know Escoffier is a different and some may even say better, pedigree, even though they both have French roots. I was also a student of Shaolin Kung Fu but pedigree in that space is even more complicated.

The vintage picture on the kitchen wall of Chef Donovan Cooke at home shows him as Head Chef at Harveys, with his Boss & Mentor Marco Pierre White, and his partner the Patissier. Marco, hailed as doyen of modern British cooking since the 80s has luminous names under his tutelage, such as, Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde, Heston Blumenthal at Fat Duck and Gordon Ramsay, the celebrity TV chef we all love to hate, but keep tuning in anyway. Pedigree in a vocation like cooking, especially during one's formidable years as an apprentice or Commis, is a good thing. We need mentors and role models, ideally tough ones who is good at handing down discipline. The best way for any junior to learn about pedigree, and to grow under pedigree, is in this sort of a settimg. Donovan fits the mode, he came from pedigree at a young age, notably Marco Pierre White & Michel Roux, and he is doing what he can to pass it on. I am convinced his 'reputation for fierce bollockings' is a definitive trait he inherited from Marco who, by the way, still does it with full flair in his own TV show, Hell's Kitchen UK.

There you have it, Kitchen Pedigree!

MICROS

MICROS is the quintessential gadget in a commercial kichen. It is the central link, the common denomintaor that allows everyone on the team to 'talk to each other'. The key functions it deploys are (1) taking orders from the floor staff and immediately transmit to all units, from 'soup to nuts' as the expression goes and diners are labelled as Seat 1, Seat 2 etc Seat 0 means sharing a plate like side dishes of veggies (2) highlighting preferences like no garlic, no cream, light on spices (3) monitoring the duration between courses like calling in a second or main course. Throughout service the slips, or dockets rather, will simultaneously emerge from 6 different locations around the kitchen ie cold larder, hot appetizers, grill, seafood, veggies & pastas, desserts. There is even one in the basement prep room  in case anyone missed anything. The Micros may be extremely low-tech but it is the first equipment any one who aspires a cooking career must learn to use.

The Micros modus operandi reminds me of a symphony orchestra, as follows ....

* Donovan is the Conductor at the Pass, the Micros becomes his baton
* Head Chef is the Concert Master who has 6 pairs of eyes, one on each Section
* Section Leaders are like Principal players in strings, woodwinds, percussions etc
* Dockets are music scores, highlighting how each performance is to be played
* Diners are the audience who, of course, judges with their palate vs the auditory function

The Micrso is sacrosant and I get a distinct feeling the entire crew, from Donovan down (especially him as a matter of fact) is totally obssessed with it, probably from years of conditioning. Everytime it 'speaks', like a telex or ticker tape machine from yester years, those around it would jump, would eagerly grab the docket, and would instinctively act on the commands. A very Pavlovian behavior indeed, I was in awe just watching the process, it is meserizing!

BACK TO SHANNON

I must put this dish on the blog, it was the Piece de Resistance at Vue De Monde the other night. 3 delectable items on a classy plate : a perfecly cooked and presented marron with every part intact, a few paper thin slices of amazingly seasoned ox tonuge sandwiched in parmesan wafers and, lastly, beautifully flavored butter or was it mousse but regardless, a delicious silky spread on either the crayfish or the tongue. My taste buds were completely blown away as I languished on cloud 9 or at least close to it at 55F Rialto. A stroke of masterly genius, Chef!

DEMISE OF MAZE

While The Atlantic is basking in the midday sun, a competitor is biting its nails on the flip side. Just about 2 years ago the Maze, by Gordon Ramsay on the Crown Casino complex, was the talk-of-the-town and we were fortunate to be able to dine there. No surprises, classic Ramsay, but one of those fine dining experiences we marvelled at the table but could not quite remember the details quite soon afterwards. I heard the Maze has been bankrupt since August and is in the hands of receivers.  It will soon be rebranded, code for closing its doors and Ramsay no more. Sigh! Could it be the style of food, the service, the marketing or the combination of the 3 horses?  Shit happens ... it is not the first nor will it be the last time, a saying that probably applies to the restaurant business more frequently than others. Someone ought to write this up as it would make a good case study on branding & marketing for hospitality students, wouldn't it?

AAA @ ATLANTIC

Speaking of unsung heroes on the Atlantic team who collectively propelled her to her 'First Hat' in less than a year, there are 2 ladies aka 'the gorgeous marketing arm' who tirelessly drive what I call the AAA ie Atlantic Awareness Agenda. Sarah Seddon, on the right, and her associate Ruthie Hunt, deserve a round of applause. I am on Donovan's mailing list and have been very impressed by the barrage of strategic and skillfully directed interviews and articles before, during and after opening. Having witnessed the rise and fall of many eateries I am of the view that sustainable success is a 3-horse carriage. The soul of any restaurant must be the quality and style of food she produces, and like the military it must be under the commanding leadership of the Executive Chef. That alone will never work though, unless it is backed by a professional team on the floor who understands and practises every nuances of top end service. Lastly, and equally important, is an astute and innovative marketing programme. Watching it up close the past 2 weeks, this formula must be working at The Atlantic.

Well done .... 'Gorgeous Ladies'!

"TRADERNE" @ HARE & GRACE

Chef Raymond Capaldi told me he came across the words 'heir and grace' in a GQ magazine and immediately thought he could tweak them, hence Hare & Grace for his restaurant. A friend of Donovan's he spent a few years in Hong Kong as Executive Chef at the Intercontinental when The Plume (remember that) was at her peak. His menu, labelled "TRADERNE" ie combining Traditional & Modern, or simply the modern approach to traditional food, is innovative and extensive. He is not by any means into Molecular Gastronomy which Donovan wittily summarizes as 'Foam on Foam'. A prolific Food Blogger from St Kilda who only identifies himself as Neil expresses it even better ' .... mucking around with food to produce tastes and textures outside of our everyday notions of what food really is .... ' Need I say more?

I am sure it has something to do with Donovan making the booking, our Traderne menu was 18 coures! Some readers might still remember the 24-course challenge at the Derby with Donovan when it took 6 hours from 7pm to 1am. Chef Raymond's 18 were presented very matter-of-factly, but with star qualities on the menu, some even carry only a single word like Borage, Yabbie, Asparagus, Parsley etc but they were all creative, thoughtful, full of surprises and without any doubt they must all took hours to prepare.

Other than the Eaton Mess his Pork Belly, as shown, was another winner. Sandwiched by 2-layers of heavenly Black Pudding, the perfectly constructed tower was garnished with Acid Apple, Fake Cinnamon on a Crusty Coffee Sauce. Volia ... "Traderne" at its best!

HARE & GRACE Eatery and Minibar : 525 Collin Street Melbourne (61) 3 9629 6755

ETON MESS

This is, by far, one of the most unusual dishes I have tasted. It is the brainchild of the innovative Chef Raymond Capaldi at Hare & Grace in Melbourne. More on the restaurant later, let us return to this art piece .....

* passion fruit juice in gelatin form at the bottom sets the base flavor
* dollop of horseradish cream in the far left corner
* cuddling against it a perfectly shucked, pristine Pacific Oyster
* dainty pink wafers are crispy beet root meringue

Eton Mess is a time honored English dessert of strawberries, meringues and cream. Per Google 'it is traditionally served after the annual cricket game between Eaton College & Winchester College' ... bit aristocratic sounding there ... it has, since the 1930s, become a favorite of the Brits. It is one of Nigella Lawson's 'best summer treats'.

History aside, my point is, who would ever dream of (1) adding an oyster (2) using horseradish as cream (3) trading pink for pink ie beet roots for strawberries ... hence revolutionarizing a classic dessert into a creative appetizer? Chef Raymond did, and it is outstandig!

Eton Mess, do not forget, and for those who claim to know what it is I have news, it is not what you think it is ....... if you are in Melbourne , you owe it to yourself to try this one.

SHANNON MAGIC

The grandiose view from the 55F of the Rialto, one of the tallest if not indeed the tallest structure in downtown Melbourne on Collin Street, is commanding. This is where Chef Shannon Bennett delivers his magic, at Vue de Monde, the 2011 Restaurant of the Year. I met the legendary chef almost 6 years ago, via Donovan Cooke's introduction. My very first impression was the face of lead guitarists from leading rock bands in the 1960s who all looked pretty much alike. Complete with an incredible head of flowy, wiry hair and a full moustache his give-away was the chef's white, and the classic royal blue striped apron. Nothing has changed on this visit, as though time stood still, and there he was in his full glory. The only difference, Shannon is now at the top of his game, and world renowned.

We were never shown the menu, but rather a presentation at the table.  Our options were either 'Freedom' ie the Chef is free to decide what he wish to serve, like 'Omakase' at the counter of an up-market Japanese eatery, or, 'Choice' which the diner chooses from an a la carte menu.  I suspect most would let Shannon lead the way.  So .... it is 'Freedom OR Choice' and not 'Freedom OF Choice' .... quite clever, really.    

To any serious foodie the Vue de Monde experience is of Mecca proportions, and not to be missed. Instead of my usual plattitudes I shall leave it as a mystery, a mouth-watering one, for your next visit to Melbourne. Trust me, you will not regret it.

Vue De Monde at (61) 3 9691 3888 or www.vuedemonde.com.au

STAFF MEALS

'Chicken Parmgiana with Chips & Salad' ... a Melborune favorite, I was told. Verdict? A tad on the dry side, but tasty nonetheless probably from the slice of salty processed ham, and grated parmesan. BTW judging from the proliferation of potatoes consumed, in every incarnation one can imagine, the lion share of arable Aussie land must be used to grow this crop. Amazing! The Section Heads take turns to prepare these meals, which promised variety in cooking styles. We had an excellent meal of Teriyaki Chicken with Mushroom Sauce & Basmati Rice prepared by a young chef from Hong Kong last week, countered by a Meat Pie in a reheatable wrapper on Friday as no one had time to cook. Yuck!

To most on the team, this is the only chance for nourishment in the course of the day. You see, most do not get home until well after midnight, only to return shortly after 9am for preparatory work so sleep is more precious than food. Most would trade breakfast for 30 more minutes of snoozing. Lunch service starts at 11am, sometimes until 3pm since the clientale is almost exclusively holiday makers from Crown Casino. Well, no time for lunch as well, until 430pm when Staff Meal is served. The next time their stomach get any relief, aside from a large quantity of water during service, is 8-10 hours hence. I guess this is why the risk of intestinal problems in the profession. To say that I learned a lot from my 2-weeks here is an understatement. I am in the middle of a gold mine and the more I dig the more 'gold' I find. My leaning curve is steep and I am in my elements. I am so happy words cannot express it ....

THE "DONOVAN COOKE"

No kidding, this monstser stove that measures 8.5 metre x 2.1 metre and weighs 2.5 tonnes is named 'Donovan Cooke' since it was designed by, and custom-made for, the Chef. The main stove was handmade by Garland in Toronto, Canada. Instead of open burners often seen on traditional commercial equipment, Donovan chose 16 induction hobs made by Garland's German factory. To complete this 'cooking battleship' (for those who understand professional kitchen equipment) there are; Gas Fired Target Tops, Frymaster Deep Fryers, Sous Vide Recirculators, Salamanders, a Pasta Cooker, 18 Refrigerated Drawers, and an Aztec Wood Fired Open Grill that use logs to generate 400C+ heat for fish, poultry and meats .... it is quite an incredible sight. His team of skilled chefs will suround this huge island, running different sections, while Donovan directs them at the 'Pass' in front, where he is seen cherishing a lull during service last night, leaning comfortably against his name sake.

THE "AUSSIE"

Today is Sunday and the only commitment I have is an Aussie BBQ at Chef Donovan's home in the evening. I woke up late, slept for 8 hours non-stop which I seldom do and instead of the gym, I took a long walk in the afternoon. Australia has become expensive, not just because of her exchange rate with the HK$ ie A$1 to HK$8.2 but for the average consumer as well. I was shocked by prices at Coles Central, the Aussie answer to Wellcome & Park N Shop. Comparing grocery prices at supermarkets is my favorite past time in any city. I wonder how an average citizen can afford to live here, not to mention a 56% tax rate for the top salary earners. Then I was attracted by this pizza joint, Pepperoni's, offering A$2 specials at lunch time. What you see is the "Aussie" ... the pizza version of my signature at home, the Mini Breakfast. On a slice of pizza dough are; bacon strips, ham and an egg, I kid you not! I had one but while it was OK taste wise it did not taste anything like pizza. Why? The meats were overcooked and dry, so was the egg but the fatal flaw, they forgot the cheese. It is another proof of why adaptation to local tastes simply does not work. It may be worth mentioning in my blog as a warning but it is nothing to write home about. Do not bother!!!!

EXCELLENCE vs ATTITUDE

This was spotted at the entrance of a culinary cum hospitality school at a newly developed waterfront of Melbourne. It needs no explaining since it is the solid truth. Judging from what I saw, and experienced, from my first week at The Atlantic, a healthy and heavy dose of 'Attitude' is what brought on their 'Excellence' .... winning their first accolade as a brand new competitor in merely 12-months, on the fierce and merciless Melbourne food scene.  Her 'First Hat', the equivalent of a Michelin Star, was awarded by the Melbourne Good Food Guide. Go Chef Donovan & Team, your Second & Third Hats are beckoning in the wings!

"BEHIND"

The number of pots, pans, plates, containers, gadgets and everything else in between during service is staggering. Each item is used only once, for a single purpose, and imediately discarded for washing. There is no such thing as re-use for a different task, they go straight to the washing team. I love these folks who are at the rock bottom of the totem pole. I believe they are hourly workers but they are there at every service, always smiling, always ready and never complain. The only word, a single word, that comes from them is " ... behind ... " which is sacred in kitchen lingo. It is short for ' ... watch out, I am behind you'. One may be carrying a plate, a knife, a pot or anything at all and this word is a direct but effective warning to the person in front. Whoever started it should be medalled.  This is almost  universal now, at least in most English speaking pro kitchens.

Back to the washing team, all you see is the removal of used items, and replacement by clean ones, without pause, and without fail. We know they are there, negotiating their way through narrow and slippery passages because you always hear "behind, behind, behind" .... They are the unsung heroes, without them the entire assembly line would be paralysed. I want to put faces to that magic word, "behind". The picture shows two infectious smiles, from two willing teammates with the best work ethics, whom I like to recognize.

Hats off to you, my new found friends, on a job very well done ... I am all "behind" you!

HURRAH ... 450!

If Dante wish to look for an Inferno in Melbourne the address is 8 Whiteman Street at Southbank VIC 3006 Australia, better known as the Esplanade at the Crown Entertainment Complex where The Atlantic is the largest restaurant. I really wanted to witness, in-vitro, how a big restaurant is run and my prayer was answered over this past week, and especially last night, a Saturday.

450 dinner guests landed on us between 6-11pm at almost non-stop traffic. On Friday, the night before, 100 less were served but the pace was different as diners all arrived betwen 7-930pm ie 2.5 hours of frantic madness, verses a drawn out 5 hours of less intense, but much longer madness. Whichever way you look at it, the burden is on the 18-member kitchen team, each and everyone of them. I was desperately trying to make myself useful during service, mindful that I am not in anyone's way. I stayed well clear of the 'Pass' where Donovan and his senior chefs were; calling new orders and final plating with chillingly scrutinzing QC eyes. Nothing goes unnoticed, and I mean nothing. If it is a bad mistake one gets hell on the spot, a lesser mistake one gets hell later, there is simply no hiding.

I just love the pace, the dynamics, the energy, sounds, the rhythm, the honesty, the brother/sisterhood but above all that attitude of digging in, and getting things done. After 2 consecutive nights of bombardment, on my feet over all those hours, my legs were in protest. I told one of the chefs how much I look forward to sleeping in today (Sunday) and his reply ' ... not for me, I will be back for mise en place bright and early tomorrow since we depleted our stock today ....'

Last night I hid behind Pak, the Senior Sous Chef to my right and Patrick, Sous Chef from London and got a real taste of 'heat'. They were guardians of the wood fire grill, which must be 400C and 130C more than the highest setting at a regular home oven. A 2" thick steak is seared, on both sides, in less than a minute. The picture was taken at the beginning of service, we (or rather they) looked very different at the end, drenched and bright red faced to begin with. I was out-classed and truly humbled by their dedication and focus.

Baptism of Fire .... indeed, in more ways than one. I was there, at The Atlantic, when 450 were served!

FANCY THIS?

This is one of the crown jewels at The Atlantic .... it is a crayfish, not a lobster, as it does not have claws. Caught in waters near Stanley Tasmania, King Island, I am told these giants weigh 3-4 kilograms. It says MP in the menu ie Market Price. Half of a 1.7 kg crayfish will set you back A$300 or US$315 or HK$2,460 and if you are not sure the 'poor man's version' at 1.1 kg is 'only' A$210 .... do not forget the 10% service charge on top of that. That said, it carries enormous appeal, be it in wood fire grilled mode, or poached and served on a cold platter with its crustacean cousins. An unstoppable 'head turner' they are, when paraded around the dining room. Regrettably, the closest I could get to one was helping the section head in charge of cold seafood appetizers last night, when he single-handedly prepared 30 (!!) yes 30 platters of Tassie Crayfish, Spanner Crabs, Tiger Prawns, Oysters, Clams etc etc ... when John Galbraith coined the term conscipuous consumption at Harvard I do not think he had these babies in mind, not in his wildest dreams!

ACCIDENTAL JUNIOR COMMIS

Wikipedia defines Commis as : " .... a basic chef in larger kitchens who work under a Chef de Partie to learn about the stations and operations, he or she may be a chef who has recently completed formal culinary training or is still undergoing training". Well, yours truly is at best a Junior Commis, and for that matter an Accidental Junior Commis who has the good fortune of landing at the right place, at the right time.

It was accidental when Donovan and I walked into each other's lives 7 years ago, it was also accidental 7 years hence when we meet again in Melbourne at his rated 'Talk-of-the-Town' restaurant. What is not accidental is the fond friendship and trust developed between us over the same period. The past 3 days at The Atlantic was an absolute eye opener for this 'wannabe' cook (not chef) who finds cooking for 12 at home a challenge. What rubbish! I feel so humbled, and terribly small now. It is amazing to watch the pace, the stamina, the team work, the dynamics and of course the sporadic temper flares. Here I am with the Boss, all smiles and relaxed at the end of lunch service, around 330pm today. I call this 'the eye of the storm' before the full fury of dinner traffic hits again 2 hours later. I am quietly preparing myself for 'baptism of fire' this weekend when 400+ are expected. By Sunday I hope to emerge a better kitchen hand than I am today.

PIECE de RESISTANCE

This is it .... with the gospel according to Donovan Cooke all over it. The showpiece, the best part of a meal, the ultimate Piece de Resistance! On the menu it simply says Warm Salad of Smoked Eel, but it has to be one of the tastiest that I have tasted from the maestro's kitchen. This dish is the end result of simple, top quality ingredients, prepared simply to the highest standards, nothing more.

Smoked Eel / Hand Picked Frisee / Smoked Bacon Bits / Garlic Croutons plus 2 other 'killer' items t0 bring the salad to dizzying heights at the palate pleaser charts. (1) a slowed cooked 60C free range runny egg and (2) a dressing made from smoked bacon fat, egg yolk, Dijon & Pommery mustard, sherry vinegar, prepared like a home made bacon flavored mayonnaise. To garnish, a pinch of Black Rock Salt Flakes. Yes, you can do this at home and once you did, you will never look back. I had this baby for lunch, and I can still taste it hours later!

KITCHEN ORGANIZATION

Apparently serving its maximum capacity ie 300 during the week, and on busy weekends, up to 400 a night is 'normal' at The Atlantic. I was in total disbelief when Donovan first shared those mind boggling numbers with me. How does his team, or any team, manage? I saw how it was done, for 280+ last night and began to get a feel of the dynamics. When I worked with Donovan at the Derby rarely would we get 100, and 80 was considered a heavy night. Granted the menu is different, being not at the top end of fine-dining, nonetheless the dishes still require a myriad of ingredients and detailed preparation. A big dose of 'mise en place' I guess ie 'putting in place' in French or, as the CIA interprets it, 'everything in place' before service. Donovan is seen here with his Head Chef Alex ... the Soul of the Kitchen and his Alter Ego at work.

Here is how the team is organized, a headcount of 16-18 to provide daily lunch & dinner service.  A normal work day would start at 9am, and it seldom finishes before 11pm, even worse on weekends.  Just imagine 14-hour on your feet, at a tight station, 6 days a week?

Chefs : Executive Chef / Head Chef / Sous Chef
Heads of Units : Hot Appetizers / Cold Appetizers / Larder / Grill / Veggie 
Oyster Bar / Salads / Garnish /  Desserts

Welcome to the world of any leading rated restaurant, anywhere, life is not exactly a bowl of chocolates!?

1ST ATLANTIC ENCOUNTER

I joined the boys and girls at The Atlantic for my first dinner service last night. It was a blissful 6 hours, I felt totally blessed to be able to rejoin my Mentor Chef Donovan and his team, some were my TAs (Teaching/Tutorial Assistants) when they were at the Derby back in Hong Kong. To the devouted it was 'a born again expereince'. At the end of a sweaty but spiritually invigorating watch that made almost 300 diners happy I received my reward. A succulent crayfish which must still be swimming in Western Australian waters when I was on CX135 to Melbourne .... roasted to perfection, it was presented on a bed of crispy veggies, with fried sweetbread, and topped with a sauce of double chicken stock, mussels stock, shallott and Noilly Prat. Hong Kong can continue to claim sophistication on the food front but one simply cannot get the same quality of super freshness at home. I cannot wait for more of such encounters. I have 10 more days so, eat your hearts out. WOW factor? Fortissimo Maximo!

OCEAN-TO-PLATE PHILOSOPHY

This is the display window of The Atlantic which features freshly caught gems of the sea, from left to right .... Blue Eye, Yellow Fin Tuna, Hapuka and Snappers .... It is an impressive display, in a cold room over crushed ice, but not for very long as the business traffic calls for them to be served within a couple of days. On the wall of the Chef's Office at The Atlantic is a prominent piece of paper with the word 'Sustainability' in block capital. It is not rocket science, it is motherhood, it is easy to understand but the key is, the management is mindful which is the right place to start. I thought I would share the essential bits on my blog.

Do you know 80% of the world's fish stock is over-fished or fished to its limit? The Atlantic prides itself of practicing the Ocean-to-Plate Philosophy which means ' ... the restuarant does not rely on any one type of fish, the menu is so flexible it changes daily depending on what is caught the day before and what is the freshest available'. The chef responsible for fish is instructed 'to check with the supplier at the crack of dawn, everyday'.

The following questions will be asked :

* is the species overfished
* how was it caught, or was it framed
* any collateral damage to the environment, and to other marine wildlife
* was it a deep sea (takes much longer to recover) slow growing or long lived species
* or it is a species of local origin which is not always sustainable

Then there is what I would call 'The Atlantic Motto' which makes good sense :

* we accept responsibility for the part we play
* our buying habit now can shape the future
* fish stock we chose today directly affects the health of our oceans tomorrow

THE ATLANTIC

Located on the Esplanande of the Crown Casino complex in Melbourne The Atlantic has been the 'Talk-of-the-Town' since its opening last year. It is the largest restaurant on the strip and has a wonderful set up of main dining, tasteful private rooms, oyster bar, and in the basement a cool and exclusive hideaway for parties. On the food front Chef Donovan Cooke's return to his second home, Melbourne, where he was Chef of the Year twice before his shourn at the Derby in Hong Kong, has created quite a stir. His name, along with the restaurant, have splattered the life style and eating pages of the media. Built for 300-cover, code for maximum number of guests in restaurant lingo, it is an ambitious project not only for Melbourne but the Aussie food scene in general.

My 2011 plan was to attend cooking school in Barcelona, to learn the art of Tapas but due to scheduling and language (almost exclusively taught in Spanish) hiccups it did not happen. Out of the blue this unique opportunity emerged ie spend 2-weeks with my Mentor to see how he tames this 'beast'. It took me 1-second to say yes, only fools would refuse. The in-vitro experience, seeing how things work and of course not work, up close, in real time is, something a commis like me ... lowest life in a profesional kitchen ... can only dream of. Donovan is not just the professional who wears the hat of my Mentor who taught me cooking, he inspired me to the extent I started my schooling plans. It is karma for us to meet and to become close friends. Cooking is only a set of skills but to pursue one's passion, to live one's dreams, to appreciate the hardships in climbing the culinary ladder, to respect those who are climbing it, and most importantly, to understand humble beginnings and of course, stay humble .... the list is long and Donovan taught me a lot across the board. He is no doubt 'daman' who changed me. My retirement life is at its fullest, even fuller than my work life I dare say, in no small part because of Donovan Cooke. Thank you Chef!

CLASSIC 'YANG-ZHOU' FRIED RICE

My late Grandfather taught my late Father, who in turn taught me the art of identiyfing a 'well done' Yang-Zhou Fried Rice. You take a single chopstick and run it from the top of the plate or bowl, all the way to the bottom. Once you hit bottom you push the rice aside and look for traces of oil. If you find oil, it fails the test. If there is no oil you check if the rice kernels are coated evenly. If not, it fails but if it does, you look for that shine (from evenly coated oil) .... simple enough?  Dad also said the ingredients must be sauteed in separate batches ie char sui, prawns, minced ginger, sweet preserved trunips, scrambled eggs before they get anywhere near the rice for the final toss.  Lastly, fold in a generous garnish of freshly chopped spring onions, including the white bits to yield fragance and color contrasts.  Voila!

BTW Dad never cooked a single thing in his life, but advice on how classic Cantonese dishes are to be prepared and to be served, a la Guangzhou style in the 30s-40s, he taught me volumes. I miss him. 

TIRAMISU CHEESECAKE

Tiramisu is an all time favorite. Cheese Cake is an all time classic. What about a hybrid? Tiramisu-Cheesecake is the answer. I was given this recipe by another foodie who excels in the space I panic ... patisserie. It is simple, doable and adorable. I like to share it.

16 Savoiardi Biscuits - 500 gm Cream Cheese - 250 gm Mascapone - 125 gm Castor Sugar
20 gm Plain Dark Chocolate - 3 Eggs
2 tablespoons Marsala - 4 tablespoons Cold Espresso Coffee

* spray cake tin with oil, then line with non-stick baking paper
* arrange biscuits to line base, sugar side up, brush with cold Espresso
* whisk cream cheese, Mascapone, eggs, sugar, Marsala until smooth
* pour over biscuits, smooth out surface, grate dark chocolate over
* preheat oven to 140C, bake cake x 1 hour till firm
* leave to cool, chill x 1 hour before service
* serve over vanilla custard cream, garnish with mixed berries
* recipe can serve 8-12

For Chocolate Cheesecake fold in melted plain dark chocolate, about 125 gm, into cheese mixture.

CHEF CHAM @ TRC

For Members of the HKJC there is this little gem which, to all of us at Club FED (Friends for Epicurean Dining) is really the 'Crown Jewel' these days. TRC, short for The Racing Club, was created to attract keen 2nd generation race goers who have to turn in their membership cards on reaching 21. TRC aims to recruit them as 'Members in Waiting', so to speak. The very special purpose-built venue at the Happy Valley Racecourse, right over the finish, has made Full Members envious. A subsequent decision was made to open this facility to all members on non-racing days and this is when the rubber hits the road on the dining front.

Chef Cham Leong was Sous Chef to Chef Donovan Cooke at the Derby who was called to duty when TRC opened, as Head Chef. Instead of giving this fine avenue the promotional pitch I suggest you book a table and try for yourself. His Tasting Menu is the best way to go, his artistry is unmistaken, his quality is as high as it gets, and his interpretation of fusion is just, plain cool.

Look! Paper thin abalone presented in its own juice and a light Japanese dressing ....