KABUKI

My first Kabuki experience must be at least 25 years ago, at this same theater in the Higashi-Ginza area.  I was too young and impatient then and did not like it so giving it another run this time was my intent.  To make a long story short, I still do not get it and I blame myself, not the art form.

The management is aware that not everyone can endure the lengthy show. One does not have to watch or pay for the whole 9-yards. I paid Y2000 or HK$154 or US$20 for the final 2-acts of Kanadehon Chushingura or The Treasury of Loyal Retainers. Guess what? There were only 2 rows for these last minute seats, the last 2 rows at the top of the balcony (as shown) which are quite a ways from the stage. In typical Japanese order we have to form a line according to the assigned number on our tickets, under the roar of a Hitlerian usher who 'kudasi-ed' everyone to death.

I watched with amusement the arrival of the rich and famous at the front door. We entered via the side door by the way. Older men with matronly Kimono-clad women who must be their wives, followed by other older men with stiletto propped glamorous young women who cannot possibly be their daughters ... this scene alone was worth Y2000.  These folks occupy the expensive seats, complete with Bento stands for the intermission.

Unlike Italian operas where the lyrics and the music form the crux of the action, Kabuki has lots of dialogue via which the best actors and actresses are revered. It is impossible to understand if you are not proficient in the language. The music was monotonous between a soloist who seemed to be clearing his throat most of the time, and a mandolin player with a repertoire of no more than a dozen notes. When the protagonist mumbled his lines in tremolo fortissimo the whole theater broke into frenzied applause, leaving peasants like me and other 'Gaijin' totally baffled. Then there was this Stage Hand, covered in black from head to toe, who ran up and down the stage picking up and replacing props.  I guess being in 'Ninja' attire, he or she was supposed to be invisible, or at least not to be 'seen' so whatever they do while others perform was not even relevant. Now, that was very funny! I kept smiling and the old lady next to me kept staring at me ... 'sorry mate, you smiled at the wrong place pal ...' she must be saying.        

2 hours, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I did not fall asleep like a few other patrons who collapsed in their chairs after they finished their Bentos. I asked Dora if I should wait for her but she asked me to go ahead on my own. She must know something I do not know. Until we become more attuned, or rather more educated with this unique Nippon art form, perhaps Kabuki is not a priority.

To my Japanese readers, I do not mean to be disrespectful. I am just not good enough for Kabuki, not 25 years ago and not 25 years later, at least not yet. I am so sorry.