MARKET ARITHMETIC

Regardless of where you are the market, any market, in any city is always fascinating. In this instance it is a neighborhood market where the specialty is 'spices' or the soul of Indian cooking. My Mentor was kind enough to show me not only the 'what' but the 'how' or 'how to select what' in this maze. While the stock is mesmerizing what caught my eyes was the process and it goes something like this.

* I was given a large, levy free, non-plastic bag
* I took what I need from the store and put everything in the bag
* at check out a shop-keeper appeared with a separate bag
* he moved the items from mine to his bag announcing item by item
* the cashier would enter an amount for each item on a pad
* not once did he look up or ask a question about any item
* once everything was recorded he started the arithmetic
* it was a short quiet chant to himself and I was shown a sum total at the end
* I would pay that scribbled amount no questions asked

This is indeed a universal skill .. my seafood guy in Wanchai do this, my vegetable auntie in Apleichau do this without any gadget and it never ceases to amaze. I wonder if they ever miscalculate. My guess is, they must, but who is counting?         

PUJA

Puja is a religious ritual performed by Hindus, normally as an offering to honor the deities, religious leaders of distinguished personalities 'to express honor, worship and devotional attention'.

Needless to say Puja is a key part of any business, more or less the same practice as what retail shops do here at home prior to opening ie burning incense for shopping traffic, good profits and for protection against evil and bad luck. Well, this super spice shop in a Delhi market is no exception. At the appointed hour the owner came up with a stubby piece of incense, I thought it was a Petite Robusto and he would smoke it, he did not but instead lit it and started to wave it all over his merchandise. Last and certainly not least is of course the cash box, which without any doubt took the lion share of the offering. One wonders why?  

MAHATMA GHANDI

There is one place I really wanted to pay respects in India it is the grave of Ghandi .. Father of modern India who was assassinated almost 70 years ago in 1948. He was truly a peacemaker who dedicated and eventually gave his life for non-violent efforts to fight for justice. I read a couple of books on Ghandi and on the India-Pakistan story. I was able to visit his home in Mumbai where there is a mini-museum.

We remember him initially in his sartorial best as a lawyer, a die-hard activist, a politician and eventually as a martyr. We will not forget that thin, even scrawny and bespectacled old man wrapped in a bundle of cotton cloth, aided by a walking stick that was nothing more than a branch from a tree, on which he made history in a 'Walkathon'. On that same outfit he addressed the British Parliament after successfully negotiated India's independence. He was indeed a man of his times. He is one story we should encourage the next generation to read lest they will think the clowns who manipulate global politics today are in fact our 'leaders' which of course they are not, starting with those at our own doorsteps.

Incidentally if you have not watched the movie Ghandi, with Ben Kingsley in the lead, you have to. You must. It has to be one of the best ever portrayal of a political figure by an actor in movie history. I must have watched it 20 times, I can remember the lines. My favorite is that unique mannerism on Ghandi (or was it Kingsley) when he moved his lips slightly as though he was about to swallow something, when he was on a hunger strike and subsequently became a trademark. Outstanding acting!  

CHAAT

I must admit that I failed myself utterly in my noble mission to explore street foods whilst on my culinary sojourns. My fear for hygiene issues has taken over my never-say-no attitude in Delhi, probably for the better albeit with huge regrets.

CHAAT is a common name for a large assortment of savory snacks served all over Indian cities on road side, on carts, in markets, even food plazas in the malls. Indians love their Chaat just like the Filipinos with their Marienda or we Chinese with our Dim-sum ... these food items are not just part of a nation's tradition, they have become their pride.

I was told 'the original Chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, crispy fried bread, chickpeas and Masala spices' but moving from there the sky is the limit. I understand even top end restaurants are elbowing in to serve 'upscale street foods' which must be a dream from the profit angle. Would it be the same though if one sits down with a white table cloth, we all know that answer. Street food must be consumed on the street, there is no if or but about it.

Bhel Puri that roast nutty salad I declined in an earlier blog is a Chaat, so is a Samosa, Dahl Puri, Pani Puri, Aloo Gobi Masala, Channa Dal Salad, Kheema Pav ... not to mention, of course, that litany of Chinese Chaat as shown.  

6TH & LAST SALVO - TOP HITS

Today is the last day of my 6-day course and Chef Usha was on auto-pilot, unloading gems after gems of wisdom as she walked me through a collection of Punjabi hits. The forte was her demonstration of much needed skills to make a range of flat breads that are stable accompaniments to Indian dishes. If only I can manage today's menu I will without question become a popular person.

BREADS : Chapati-Riti, Parantha, Tendoori, Garlic Nan, Poori, Pappadom

CURRIES

* Handi Dal Tadka :Channa or Dal cooked in Tumeric with tempering
* Palak Paneer : spinach based sauce with Paneer cubes
* Potato Bahji : potatoes cooked in tomato puree
* Ghobi Masala : cauliflower simmered in Masala in party presentation
* Stuffed Bhindi : Lady's Finger or Okra stuffed and sauteed with Masala mix

SIDES : Samosas, Mango Chutney, Punjabi Salted Lassi

We also spent time to identify, from all the recipes taught, curries that can best complement meats, poultry, fish and seafood. Chef Usha might be a vegetarian all her life but she has this professional knowledge on which curry will match which non-vegetarian ingredients. How does she know without tasting them is beyond me. That said, I simply cannot wait to address this goldmine at home. TKT will never be the same after my tenure here in Delhi. Curries, here I come!

I WAS SPEECHLESS ... TWICE

The Humayun's Tomb is a very popular heritage in Delhi for tourists and locals alike. I had the pleasure of visiting this beautifully preserved sit but I must share with you two instances that left me speechless, twice.

I was with my driver whom I invited to come along. First of all his ticket was R10 as a local and mine R250 as a foreigner. Well, so be it, a justified source of income. Out of nowhere came an officious looking man, index finger wagging, and began to lecture me ' .. he is not a registered tour guide and under no circumstances should he be talking to you, this is strictly for your protection against touts so consider this a warning'. Hello, where did you go to charm school again? I was speechless.

My next encounter was rather different. It was Saturday and the site was mobbed with school kids who, surprisingly, love to take pictures with foreigners. All of a sudden I was surrounded and while posing for the camera the following 30-second conversation took place.

* Where did you come from?
* Hong Kong.
* Do you have tombs like this?
* No we do not.
* Who is better, ours or yours? ... from the boy turning to face me
* Yours, of course! ... bursts of loud cheers and applause
* Thank you please come back to see us again  ... girl in front of me

I was touched, and I was speechless for a second time. God Bless India!    

FASCINATING COLORS OF INDIA ...

DONER KABAB

'Baptized in Istanbul' whilst on my Mezze Sojourn I became a big fan of the Doner Kebab where the crown of kebabs rests. I have 'seen the light' so to speak and since then I take every opportunity to broader my empirical research data base. I love the way the meat is pressed .. lamb is best but chicken is acceptable, the slow rotisserie grill, the chopping with condiments, the spicy sauces, and of course the wrap which ties up all the loose ends to make the product whole. I just love it, my record is 3 in on seating.

I must have sauntered past this Chicken Doner stand a dozen times, salivating for that R120 or HK$14 special. At the end I failed to order and again, it was the ice. What kept the sliced red onions and coriander alive might kill my perfect track record to fend off even the slightest symptoms of the world renown Delhi Belly. It was not easy but I passed, using the lame excuse that I should keep my all time record of masquerading a pure vegetarian for 10 days.

See how that glorious piece of Chapati is being warmed, just that alone with salad and Masala dressing would make a perfect street snack. BTW do you know Chapati in Hindi is the same flat bread as the Roti in Punjabi?

5TH SALVO - SWEETS

Day #5 is for Indian Sweets. While I do not have a single sweet tooth I do have a soft spot for ice cream in all shapes and forms. KULFIS or what I call 'Indian Ice Cream' is therefore a must on my list. Next to it there is the super sweet GULAB JAMUN .. perfect after a hefty meal of curries.

Phirni : rice puddings in plain & party presentations of tissue thin silver leaves
Gulab Jamun : literally means 'ball shapes with the taste of roses'
Kulfis : in typical molds with multiple flavors like Pista (pistachio) & Badam (almond)

KULFIS RECIPE

* 1/2 litre full cream milk
* 8 tbsp castor sugar
* 2 tbsp corn flour
* 100 gm Mawa or Khoya 'milk cheese'
* 1/4 cup Ghee or clarified butter
* 1/4 tsp vanilla essence
* 1/4 tsp Elachi or Green Cardamon Powder
* other essence eg mango, pistachio, almond per taste preference

METHOD

* blend sugar and corn flour in milk, keep stirring on heat until smooth
* corn flour must be cooked through with no lumps
* bring to boil, simmer for 5 minutes, turn heat off
* melt Mawa into hot milk then add to the mixture
* when cool add Elachi & essences
* put into classic Kulfi molds to freeze        

BHEL-PURI

India is actually a haven for street foods, complete with a dazzling repertoire of savories & sweets, vegetarian & meats, plus of course national & regional specials. At every street corner, these outlets are always so vibrant with the colors of red Chili, yellow Tumeric, green Coriander that appeal not only to the eyes but also the palate.

Bhelpuri is one such local favorite : a cocktail of roasted peanuts, chickpeas and lentil in Masala, mixed with a chopped onion and coriander salad, splashed with a Tamarind-like dressing and lastly topped with more spices. Not bad? Not really! I kept watching, my mouth watering as orders after orders was being prepared. I took pictures but I just could not gather enough courage to take one. What stopped me was that menacing chunk of ice in the middle of the salad. In a country when one is advised to use bottled water for brushing teeth how can one deal with this? This is such a great recipe though, the flavors and textures must be out of this world. I will try one at home instead.    

A SHAWL TO DIE FOR ... REALLY?

My position or rather opposition to shopping is well documented. I do not like it and I hardly shop. That said, with 4 women around me, 1 wife and 3 daughters the chance of me being left alone is zilch. I am here to learn Indian cooking, but not before I complete my mission of shawl shopping, which I did, thanks to my gracious hosts who took the trouble.

Despite all the animal rights efforts the fashion world is still fascinated by the magic of the Shahtoosh shawl .. so smooth, so light, so warm and so versatile it can be pulled through a ring. Made from the fine fleece of a Chiru or Tibetan Antelope, it is said that it takes five of these endangered animals to yield one shawl. Unlike what the public is told, apparently they are often killed either in the wild in the old days or where they are farmed today. The U.S. has banned Shahtoosh and I believe India, too.

Now .. there is an alternative the Pashmina which comes from the fleece of Tibetan Mountain Goats, a species in less of a dire straits. This is my task. Pashmina is much less expensive than Shahtoosh which is just not available but even within the Pashmina category there is a wide price range.

How does one go about it then? One needs locals who know where to go and how to do a deal. I was taken to this market near Defence Colony (do not ask me where it is or how to get there) ... to Ahujasons ... to be exact, a big name in shawls and scarves which is all they sell. Well, for someone who hates shopping I bought enough, almost enough rather, to bring smiles to these gentlemen behind the counter. Do not get me wrong they are the nicest folks but speaking of keeping things close to their chests. WOW!        

4TH SALVO - TAWA & HANDI

Day #4 was dedicated to 2 key utensils in an Indian kitchen, namely the TAWA and the HANDI. Tawa is an easy to use flat plate without the edge of a pan so it is quite flexible. It is used to prepare most dough related items ranging from a simple Chapati, Nan, Roti to the more decorative items like Dosa, Kulcha, Parantha and of course, my all time favorite the Pappadom. As for the Handi it is simply a clay-pot for simmering curries, as braising meats is not as prevalent since vegetarian is still mainstream so a Handi is perfect for the maze of curry recipes. Once the curry is in the Handi simmer will begin with the lid on, and aluminum foil is used to tightly wrap the mouth with the single purpose of releasing that salivating aroma of whatever ingredients inside. This moment alone will capture the heart and soul of diners .. something like that.

I wanted to present two rather unique Tawa recipes :

*Kohinoor Bhaji : large kernels of corn cooked in Masala, served with beautifully flavored Pav or Indian bread cut like large croutons
*Bano Kebabs with Macaroni : kebabs from pea puree stuffed with Paneer, served with the Macaroni mentioned earlier

Incidentally 'DUM PUKTH' is an Indian cooking method essentially translated as 'cover' and 'steam or slow cook' .. ask for that in a restaurant, it is really well done be it vegetarian or non-vegetarian. 

EGG-LESS MACARONI-CARBONARA DELHI STYLE

Our grand twins love Carbonara anything and I make it for them often at home following Jamie Oliver's classic recipe of Eggs, Parmesan, Pancetta .. a trio that works every time. Imagine my surprise when Macaroni appeared on the menu as a favorite staple, a side dish that is very simple to make, and without eggs.

INGREDIENTS

* 1 tablespoon of : butter, flour, grated cheese, chopped celery
* 1/2 teaspoon of : salt, paprika
* 3/4 cup of milk
* pinch of saffron soaked in water for color effect

METHOD

Cook 1/2 cup of Macaroni to al dente in salted water. Mix the milk, flour, cheese and seasoning. Melt the butter, add the milk mixture to form a thick sauce. Add Macaroni and fold well. Garnish with chopped parsley.

The creaminess can certainly match the 3 eggs I normally use, it is quite a delicious recipe.  
  

WHERE ARE OUR FOOD VANS?

Can someone close to the dreamers galore in the driving seats of Government please remind them we have not even heard a single trickle more of this 'very original but nevertheless borrowed old idea of Food Vans in Hong Kong'. Its sheer brilliance has blinded us non-believers for months since its unveiling. I ran into this Chinese take-out around the Defence Colony neighborhood, I spoke to the owner who said he is prepared to give Hong Kong a few much needed but too arrogant to acknowledge advice on this subject.  

3RD SALVO - SOUTH INDIAN

Day #3 is dedicated to South Indian Cuisine which is represented by the 5 southern States of Andra Pradesh, Karnataka, Keraia, Tamil Nadu and Telangana ... all Greek to me, and I am sure to you too. While common denominators are many on the ingredient front their food do differ mainly in the degree of spiciness. Rice is a staple, along with derivatives such as Idli, Dosa & Uthappam. Vegetarians dishes are de rigurer with Sambar as the Mother Sauce in the region.

* Dosa : a large pancake made from ground rice shown on the right, with potato stuffing
* Sambar : the thin brown sauce from mixed veggies and tempered with spices
* Medu Vada : South Indian doughnut a street food item to go with Chutneys
* Rice Idli : savory steamed rice cakes
* Uthappam : South Indian pizza mostly with veggies served soft
* Chutneys : from top right ... red-hot, coconut, tomatoes ... all heavenly

To a Chinese palate the Dosa would win hands down chiefly because of this crispy toasted skin as a 'wrap' for normally a spicy Potato Masala stuffing, it can even be meat. I would tear off a piece of Dosa, moisten it with a dip in the Sambar, spread on a Chutney of choice ... then gobble. My humble view is the pizzas are soggy, the rice cakes plain tasting, and the doughnuts lack structure. Oops ... did I just offend someone?          

LADIES' LUNCH

I run into this group of ladies every morning about 1030am on my way to school. They are always friendly, ever so charming, as they prepare for either a late breakfast or an early lunch of Chapati & Dahl. Sitting in the exact positions daily, the one in spectacles (who I am sure can hardly see) is the MaMaSan who gives the orders. I end up sitting down for a chat whenever I pass, in a new dialect of Hindi intertwined with English that miraculously we both seem to understand. I brought them a bag of peanuts yesterday which they happily shared, and yes, MaMaSan was dishing them out equitably, as shown. Look at those faces and expressions .. sheer magic!

I love these 'moments' which is really the cornerstone of my cooking sojourns over the past 7-years. Increasingly my quest to become an amateur Food Anthropologist is mounting a challenge to that of an amateur home cook.

To our Hong Kong Tai-Tai Group ... stalwarts and pillars of the Ladies Lunch Movement ... this is a far cry from the Garden Lounge at the Hong Kong Club, isn't it?

"THE PERFECT MEAL"

I brought along this book which I utterly enjoyed, so much so I feel obliged to share with you. John Baxter is an Aussie who has lived the expatriate life in Paris for more than 20 years. Noticing that the 'soul of the world's most revered national cuisine is in danger of disappearing' he made it his personal quest to search for, and taste, the last of the great French recipes. ' ... From surviving haute cuisine establishments in Paris to the tiny local restaurants that still serve the remarkable regional specialties of Provence, Normandy. Core d'Azur and more ...' This is literally a juicy, or should I say saucy, read.

Let me give you an aperitif, or an opener, of his style :

"Food is not about appetite but appreciation. Fine shades of meaning separate the terms for connoisseurs of food. A gourmet enjoys food and eats well. A gourmand loves food so much that he gorges himself, he is a glutton. A gastronome is someone for whom the study of food and the maintenance of its excellence means infinitely more than the satisfaction of mere appetite. He does not so much enjoy or love food as revere it ... and one does not eat what one reveres".

Masterly .. you must!     

www.johnbaxterparis.com 

2ND SALVO - PUNJABI FAVORITES

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Day #2 is a focus on what Chef Usha describes as Indian or to be more specific Punjabi Favorites .. this is a cuisine style to serve at parties, weddings and important occasions. Calling the dishes 'King' & 'Queen' denotes special attention to preparation, which often means a generous helping of cream for that smooth and silky texture that has apparently delighted royalties over the ages.


Look at the lunch spread, which we made, from top left :

* Kundani Aloo : 'precious gem' baked stuffed new potatoes
* Veggie Jalfrezi : a royal dish of vegetables cooked in liquid
* Channa Masala : 'fit for Queens' a classic Punjabi dish of chickpeas
* Methi Malai Matar : unabashedly creamy baby green peas an absolute winner
* Spicy Chutney : yes it is spicy alright
* Stuffed Kulcha : another Punjabi favorite like a stuffed Nan

I made my first Kulcha from scratch ... putting to rest, at least temporarily, my deep seated fear from Le Cordon Bleu that I am useless when it comes to dough ... it felt good.

Chef Usha and her consort Mahesh hailed from the Punjab region many moons ago and their household, especially her kitchen, have maintained the highest Punjabi traditions. I am just so lucky to have found her, she is truly the 'MasterChef'.

THANKS .... MR POLICEMAN

I was not sure whether it was me, an accidental tourist, or the numbering system in India ... I lost my way on Day #2 of my sojourn as I tried but failed to find the home of my Chef, on foot, around a maze of blocks after blocks of apartments and individual houses. The numbers were erratic and everyone I approached for direction, though kind and ready to help, would have a different or even conflicting set of directions. I was about to give up when this police patrol came by and the young officer offered to take me. Totally relieved and wet from sweat and embarrassment I climbed into the back of the jeep ... only to disembark literally 1-minute later. I said thank you, and gave him the best rendition of a British military salute I was taught by the Royal Air Force back in 1976.  I will never forget his acknowledgement ... in the form of a lovely smile, and that classic 25 degree slant of the head with a half shrug that only an Indian can master. It was the high point of my visit.

OUTDOOR GROCERIES

The Defence Colony being a residential community they carry charming characteristics such as outdoor vendors for veggies, fruits and what is called a DMS store. The Delhi Milk Scheme is a subsidiary of the Ministry of Agriculture, Department of Animal Husbandry, Dairying and Fisheries. Commissioned 56 years ago in 1959 its mission is to 'supply wholesome milk to the citizens of Delhi at reasonable price as well as to provide renumerative prices to the milk producers' ... whatever that means. It is rather an extraordinary public vehicle considering cows are sacrosanct in India. Even more noteworthy is as a Government owned and managed entity the DMS has only made its 2nd profit in May 2015 or 5+ decades since its charter .. to the tune of 6.65 'crore' which is a unit of 10 million Rs.  I guess making money is low on the list of objectives, if at all. In addition to a range of dairy products a DMS would carry local brands one finds in a rustic local Mom & Pop store ... it is quite an eye opener.          

GARAM MASALA

While we all claim to know what 'spicy' means, many a times we will confuse that with the word 'hot' as in hot chili or hot oil in Thai or Szechuan or Tex-Mex cooking. Indian food is all about the skillful, or rather artful, application of literally hundreds of spices to create thousands of recipes. My first lesson in this learned discipline is of course Garam Masala, notably the most frequently used spice mix to prepare, among other dishes, the all time favorite Dal Maharani.

In Hindi Garam means 'hot or brings heat to the body' and Masala is simply 'a mixture of spices'. It is most common in North Indian cuisine, along with other seasonings. The essential ingredients to be toasted, and ground to powder form, without exception, are : Black Peppercorns, Cinnamon Bark Chips, Cloves, Nutmeg or Mace, Black Cardamon & Green Cardamon Pods, Bay Leaf, and Cumin Seeds. However, it is noted that ... 'the composition of Garam Masala differs regionally, with many recipes across India according to regional and personal tastes, and none is considered more authentic than others ...' there you have it.      

A word of advice for us mere mortals and amateur home cooks, buy from an Indian provision store. Try different brands and pick one that complements your taste bud, it is as easy as that. 

1ST SALVO - MURHLAI SPECIALS

One does not need to look very far to see the definition of 'bliss' as shown on my face, while being put through the paces by Chef Usha at her home kitchen. Being a bona fide meat eater, I never thought I could be so overwhelmed by vegetarian recipes until now, in New Delhi.

Without wasting a single breath, my no-nonsense Mentor-Chef introduced me to 5 of her signatures under the Mughlai category, favorite recipes handed down from the Mughal Empire which enjoyed supremacy of 331 years from 1526-1857 .. from the left at the top of the picture :

* Dal Makhami : lentil cooked for Queens in buttery gravy
* Vegetarian Plateau Biryani : tiered basmati rice & mixed veggies
* Jhatpat Shahi Paneer : instant cottage cheese for royalties in tomato-ketchup sauce
* Makhmali Kofta : velvet soft 'balls' in creamy Badami gravy or white sauce
* Lachcha Pudina Parantha : layered roti or flat-bread with dry mint powder
* Pickled Onions, Minty Yogurt Dip, Skewered Green Chili            

These may be veggie recipes but the 3 'Mother Sauces' are universal which means they can be used as bases to prepare meat, poultry or seafood dishes .. voila!

I could never imagine that only 48-hours ago I was illiterate and 5-courses later, within one day, I have taken my first step into the magical world of Indian cuisine. Hence that smile on my face which Dora dubs 'contagious'. You can never wipe it off, as long as I am in the kitchen, any kitchen.  

DEFENCE COLONY CLUB

I was taken to the neighborhood watering hole on my first dinner .. to the Defence Colony Club. If there is one thing the Raj has picked up from their colonizers it is the esprit de corps of a 'Club'. We started with drinks at the Bar which, for a moment, I thought was Men-Only judging from the decibel level. Camaraderie was abundant with handshakes, slaps on the back and hugs. The mood was infectious as a herd of waiters shuttled drinks after drinks in ballet steps. We ordered snacks with Indian whiskeys before moving to a quite dining room for my baptism to an all-veggie dinner, courtesy of my Mentor Chef Usha who is a vegetarian. It was light, refreshing, stimulating to the taste buds but the assurance I will learn these recipes in the ensuing week made the evening even more enticing.

Speaking of Men-Only this upcoming event at the Club is innovative, don't you think?