WAGYU TAKUMI

It is blatantly decadent but like card carrying disciples of Thortsein Veblen's doctrine of 'Conspicuous Consumption' we were caught in the act, again. Within days after SANKA we were sitting in front of Head Chef Konishi Mitsuru at WAGYU TAKUMI, a direct competitor to the former, also recently opened under the Ginsai Group in Wanchai.

They may come with more or less the same pedigree from Tokyo, and pitching at more or less the same theme, but what we encountered could not be more different. Sanka is very traditional, a carbon copy of her parent per our friends who dined at the Ukai-Tei in Tokyo. Takumi, however, is deliciously French biased notably because of Chef Konishi's wide exposure to Michelin establishments in both Paris & Tokyo, including L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Tokyo.

While I have no doubt they will generate their own followings, my personal preference is Takumi as it offers out-of-the-box thinking with the same ingredients, which are right at the top end for both venues.  There are only 12 seats in an L-shape and diners can watch the impressively staged, cool, and rhythmic delivery of creative French-Japanese contemporary cuisine.  Needless to say the price tag is right up there too at $2,380 per head but for a 9-course extravaganza it is Value-for-Money in my book.

* Marinated Scallops & Caviar with Sudachi Jelly
* French Chanterelle & Deep Fried Artichoke with Fresh Almonds
* Hokkaido Sea Urchin, King Crab in a Cold Salsify Soup
* Abalone with Shimanto Seaweed & Wheat Risotto
* Teppayaki Lobster with Fennel & Fresh Tomato Sauce
* Roast Bresse Chicken Breast with Tempura Mushroom
* Duo of Grilled Kagoshima Tenderloin & Teppanyaki Oumi Flank Steak
* Sweet Corn Tempura in Udon
* Peach Soup, Compote Jelly & Earl Gray Ice Cream

I shall return!

WAGYU TAKUMI : www.ginsai.com.hk
GF The Oakhill 16 Wood Road, Wanchai @ 2574 - 1299

'YAT CHAU HON'

I am no fan of Next Magazine as I am skeptical of the sensational reporting that is the centerpiece to boost weekly sales.  I am amazed how often some of this 'stuff' end up in dinner conversations, where the power-that-be in town actually quote them as though they are 'reliable information'.  Speaking of making heads turn!

That said, for many years Next Magazine has arrived religiously at our door because other family members (who will remain nameless) are ardent followers of the food and gossip pages.  Ces't la vie!  A man of weak will, and even weaker principles in this instance, I often pick up the seemingly more 'respectable' and less gossipy section and read the columns.

Lo and behold ... while they are always center left, of late I can sense the meeting of minds between these columns and public sentiments. Here is the latest of Donald Tsang's dirty laundry.  I do not know who Mark Simon is, but do read 'Serving God & Communist' ... a grammatically incorrect headline but who cares, the following paragraph is interesting, as the plot thickens.

" ... You cannot separate the Chief Executive from his Catholic faith.  Mr. Tsang's business with the Pope was not the business of Hong Kong, but rather a journey to heal an unsettled spiritual divide that he believes he has with our Church, based on his years as Chief Executive ... "

SANKA TEPPANYAKI

We were invited to the latest competitor in the up-market teppanyaki battlefield in Central last weekend, SANKA.  It was a thoroughly delicious evening in more ways than one, albeit a tad pricey. Waving the Value-for-Money banner these days it is my mission to identify eateries worthy of the description.

Apparently SANKA is the Hong Kong branch of a top Tokyo favorite, opened less than 2 months ago with all the fanfare.  Right up there in the cholesterol chain, Dora and I are squeamish with words like marbled steaks and hairy crab these days. We were in for a pleasant surprise ... the Kuroge Wagyu served was beautiful, just right, unlike places where your lips and lower chin continue to feel the fat from the steaks hours after a meal.    

The Special Menu, at $2,180 per head, is comprised of the following :

* Marinated Salmon with caviar
* Sauted Foie Gras with Roasted Fresh Figs
* Matsusake Mushroom Consomme
* Giant Abalone Steamed in Salt Crust with Hokkaido Scallops
* Premium Kuroge Wagyu Steak
* Minced Garlic Fried Rice
* Dessert Trio

If you wish to spend less there are 2 other choices : a seafood course for $1,680 and a less damaging version of the above at $1,450 but adding libation to the tab we are talking about a minimum of $2,000 per head.  It was faultless quality fare across the menu, presented by Sous Chef Toru Takano with his own razzle-dazzle, and excellent service. We were in a private room and I noticed a junior chef and a floor staff at the ready by the door, at our beckon call, throughout the dinner ... testimony to professional pride and discipline, Nippon style.        

There were a few young dating folks outside at the tastefully and opulently decorated 'bar'. I kept reminding my bride of 32 years that, obviously, Value-for Money has taken on new meanings since our courting days.

SANKA : 1F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central @ (852) 3460 2285

BRAND NEW WORD

I just received this from a college classmate, we met at 18, as Freshmen at Tufts.

EXHAUSTIPATED

Brilliantly translated as " ... too tired to give a shit ... "

This genius addition to my vocabulary paints an almost perfect picture of my current mindset, as I age.  

TKT PORCHETTA

Borrowing the idea from the Porchetta at Meat & Bread as shown on the left I prepared a similar but different sandwich at TKT, using practically the same recipe.

* well toasted Ciabatta, both sides, on a grill for presentation effect
* apple sauce flavored pesto spread on one side
* mustard mayo on the other

On to the roast pork ... mixing the shredded lean meat, the slightly fatty belly layer and of course the piece-de-resistance the cracklings ... make sure the mix is well seasoned, adding to it whole baby capers, julienne of pickled red onions including a sprinkle of the red wine vinegar to keep the pork moist, add alfafa or arugula, and before closing the sandwich, ample cracked black pepper or in my case, dried pepper flakes.

Served with an iced cold Virgin Mojito this recipe will make you an instant hero as a home cook!  

MEAT & BREAD

To me the most memorable meal from our 2-week sojourn, between Edmonton & Vancouver, was the super sandwiches we had at Meat & Bread, in the Gas Town District of Vancouver. It was an absolute delight, a simple culinary asterisk that impressed me to the hilt. To continue my quest in Food Anthropology my taste buds have shifted more and more to street foods.  Unassuming sandwich joints are western cuisine's answers to our roast meats on rice or wanton noodles outlets and this one, introduced to us by a young CX pilot family friend, is very special.

The menu, shown on the right, is limited but almost every item is 'to the point'.  The house sandwiches on offer, all under C$10, are as follows and we ordered one of each.

*  Porchetta with Cracklings
*  Meat Ball Sambal with Grana Padano
*  Terriyaki Beef with Sambal Aioli
*  Classic Ham in Melted Cheese

There is only a single long dining table with free seating, and tap water is free, none of this annoying practice of bottled water at nonsense prices. Service is excellent, the solo front-of-house staff will pack what you cannot finish, so beautifully you can send it to someone as a gift. Though moving efficiently, there is always a queue as we were told so avoid the busy hours which, unfortunately, means most of the day.

MEAT & BREAD : www.meatandbread.com  370 Cambie Street @ Victory Square, Vancouver BC

WTF

WTF ... 3 pitiful English words, including one which is called a 'bad word' when all it does is to explain copulation in the vernacular.  Why not? I do not see any movement for a better, more expressive alternative so shall we let it be, and not make a capital case of it?

Cantonese cuisine in Vancouver has benefited from Hong Kong immigrants, both culinary professionals as well as gourmands. We were taken to a leading restaurant, which will remain nameless here and you will not believe what I am about to share.

On the corridor there was the de rigueur open tank to highlight freshness of the sea food, albeit freshness at a price.  In that tank were one hardly moving fish, one on its side clearly in rigor mortis as shown, and one belly up. Bad press, I said to myself and then in absolute shock I noticed a sign board with a bilingual display that said ... 'It is normal for healthy fish to be belly up, due to the difference in water pressure between the sea and the fish tank'.

Now, this is when WTF comes in. What the Fuck? Can you  believe this bullshit, at a rated restaurant, in down town Vancouver?  

COSCO & SUPERSOTRE

Bulk is bliss!  Imagine the savings on bulk purchase of 5 rolls of Foil or 10 rolls of Kling ... when even 1 can get you going months, not to mention savings on detergent, Reese candy bars, sports socks, soft drinks, beers, vitamins, pain killers, disposable razors, sanitary napkins, paper plates, batteries, dental floss, tyre polish, shower gel, giant size condiments, BBQ sauces, meats, frozen food of variety ... you name them COSCO & Superstore in Canada will carry them, in bulk at wholesale prices.  The point is why do we need bulk? Well, in North America there is also space, to store the purchases but not in Hong Kong, when a standard size flat can ill afford a store room and this is why the concept went completely south at home.

These stores have become 'a must' for Hong Kong visitors ... the first timers are amazed in disbelief and, after crossing the river of no return, addiction sets in. It is a cardinal sin to not bring an empty suitcase for the Cosco or Superstore run.  I am not all talks, I have proof.  I can show you at the check-in counter on departure.  This is a ritual only the Land of Plenty offers, do not miss it.  My family thrives on it, and they are not unique.

Finally, before we leave the subject of shopping  ... instead of taking me to department stores, malls, outlets and wholesale venues you might as well shoot me in the parking lot, to spare me a painful death.      

OUTLETS

This train station is Wusterpark, about an hour from the center of Berlin and, literally, in the middle of nowhere. Why do people come here? Bargain hunting at the outlets where 'basement prices for penthouse goods from the most sought after brands are on offer'. You can shop till you drop, bringing home goods that more than justify the money you spent, not to mention the deep seated satisfaction that you beat the system, and you are ahead of this cat and mice game between up-market retailers and high-end consumers looking for deals. Wrong!  You will never win. The fact that you made it all the way to these outlets means only one thing, you lost already, even before you begin.

Outlets sell goods the retailers cannot move via normal channels, period. They represent mostly surplus, out of style, off season, slightly damaged products that appeal to consumers who are determined to own a certain brand but are not prepared to take the full hit .... Chanel bags, Prada shoes, Ferragamo suits all the way down to Brooks Brother shirts at the low end ... the brand I was faithful to my entire career, but I buy them at full price in their Central flagship. What does this behavior tell us?  

We had a free morning in Berlin recently and intrigued by the flowery language in the ad Dora wanted to visit Mecca, since she missed the one in Milan. We made Wusterpark alright, being the only passengers who got off, stared by bewildered eyes inside the train, probably saying 'only the Chinese would do this'.  The outlets can only be reached by taxi, and we can only call one which we could not since we spoke no German. It was frustrating, so frustrating we quit but still had to wait 45-minutes for the train back.

This, is another reason why I hate shopping.

LIFE CYCLE OF SHOPPING

I hate shopping, period, no ifs or buts ...

Living with 3 daughters and 1 wife one would have thought one gets used to it, but one never. I was imprisoned in this monstrosity the last two days, the West Edmonton Mall, which the locals take huge pride 'that it is the largest in the world' ... but of course since the lion share of the population needs somewhere to take refuge when the merciless elements hit in the Winter.  I had lots of time to 'think' hence my flowchart on the 'Cycle of Shopping'.

* Teenager : loved to shop with parents & for myself
* 20+ : loved to shop with girlfriends
* 25+ : still loved to shop with girlfriends, chance to check out other girls
* 30+ : loved to shop with wife
* 35+ : loved to shop with wife for kids
* 40+ : did not mind joining wife and daughters for shopping
* 45+ : began to find sporadic but unsuccessful excuses not to join
* 50+ : began to not like shopping but relucantly tagged along
* 55+ : successfully created elaborate excuses not to join
* 60+ : openly declared dislike of shopping, a singularly monotonus task
* 65+ : ..... I will just not show up, period
* 70+ : ..... if I am lucky they might leave me alone
* 75+ : ..... shopping again, in a wheelchair, not by choice because 'It is Good for You, Dad'
* 80+ : ..... tombstone says 'Here Lies One who Fought & Lost the Shopping Battle'

The last 4 points are what I guess may happen, and I do not think I am far off. Damn it!