LADIES' LUNCH

I run into this group of ladies every morning about 1030am on my way to school. They are always friendly, ever so charming, as they prepare for either a late breakfast or an early lunch of Chapati & Dahl. Sitting in the exact positions daily, the one in spectacles (who I am sure can hardly see) is the MaMaSan who gives the orders. I end up sitting down for a chat whenever I pass, in a new dialect of Hindi intertwined with English that miraculously we both seem to understand. I brought them a bag of peanuts yesterday which they happily shared, and yes, MaMaSan was dishing them out equitably, as shown. Look at those faces and expressions .. sheer magic!

I love these 'moments' which is really the cornerstone of my cooking sojourns over the past 7-years. Increasingly my quest to become an amateur Food Anthropologist is mounting a challenge to that of an amateur home cook.

To our Hong Kong Tai-Tai Group ... stalwarts and pillars of the Ladies Lunch Movement ... this is a far cry from the Garden Lounge at the Hong Kong Club, isn't it?

"THE PERFECT MEAL"

I brought along this book which I utterly enjoyed, so much so I feel obliged to share with you. John Baxter is an Aussie who has lived the expatriate life in Paris for more than 20 years. Noticing that the 'soul of the world's most revered national cuisine is in danger of disappearing' he made it his personal quest to search for, and taste, the last of the great French recipes. ' ... From surviving haute cuisine establishments in Paris to the tiny local restaurants that still serve the remarkable regional specialties of Provence, Normandy. Core d'Azur and more ...' This is literally a juicy, or should I say saucy, read.

Let me give you an aperitif, or an opener, of his style :

"Food is not about appetite but appreciation. Fine shades of meaning separate the terms for connoisseurs of food. A gourmet enjoys food and eats well. A gourmand loves food so much that he gorges himself, he is a glutton. A gastronome is someone for whom the study of food and the maintenance of its excellence means infinitely more than the satisfaction of mere appetite. He does not so much enjoy or love food as revere it ... and one does not eat what one reveres".

Masterly .. you must!     

www.johnbaxterparis.com 

2ND SALVO - PUNJABI FAVORITES

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Day #2 is a focus on what Chef Usha describes as Indian or to be more specific Punjabi Favorites .. this is a cuisine style to serve at parties, weddings and important occasions. Calling the dishes 'King' & 'Queen' denotes special attention to preparation, which often means a generous helping of cream for that smooth and silky texture that has apparently delighted royalties over the ages.


Look at the lunch spread, which we made, from top left :

* Kundani Aloo : 'precious gem' baked stuffed new potatoes
* Veggie Jalfrezi : a royal dish of vegetables cooked in liquid
* Channa Masala : 'fit for Queens' a classic Punjabi dish of chickpeas
* Methi Malai Matar : unabashedly creamy baby green peas an absolute winner
* Spicy Chutney : yes it is spicy alright
* Stuffed Kulcha : another Punjabi favorite like a stuffed Nan

I made my first Kulcha from scratch ... putting to rest, at least temporarily, my deep seated fear from Le Cordon Bleu that I am useless when it comes to dough ... it felt good.

Chef Usha and her consort Mahesh hailed from the Punjab region many moons ago and their household, especially her kitchen, have maintained the highest Punjabi traditions. I am just so lucky to have found her, she is truly the 'MasterChef'.

THANKS .... MR POLICEMAN

I was not sure whether it was me, an accidental tourist, or the numbering system in India ... I lost my way on Day #2 of my sojourn as I tried but failed to find the home of my Chef, on foot, around a maze of blocks after blocks of apartments and individual houses. The numbers were erratic and everyone I approached for direction, though kind and ready to help, would have a different or even conflicting set of directions. I was about to give up when this police patrol came by and the young officer offered to take me. Totally relieved and wet from sweat and embarrassment I climbed into the back of the jeep ... only to disembark literally 1-minute later. I said thank you, and gave him the best rendition of a British military salute I was taught by the Royal Air Force back in 1976.  I will never forget his acknowledgement ... in the form of a lovely smile, and that classic 25 degree slant of the head with a half shrug that only an Indian can master. It was the high point of my visit.

OUTDOOR GROCERIES

The Defence Colony being a residential community they carry charming characteristics such as outdoor vendors for veggies, fruits and what is called a DMS store. The Delhi Milk Scheme is a subsidiary of the Ministry of Agriculture, Department of Animal Husbandry, Dairying and Fisheries. Commissioned 56 years ago in 1959 its mission is to 'supply wholesome milk to the citizens of Delhi at reasonable price as well as to provide renumerative prices to the milk producers' ... whatever that means. It is rather an extraordinary public vehicle considering cows are sacrosanct in India. Even more noteworthy is as a Government owned and managed entity the DMS has only made its 2nd profit in May 2015 or 5+ decades since its charter .. to the tune of 6.65 'crore' which is a unit of 10 million Rs.  I guess making money is low on the list of objectives, if at all. In addition to a range of dairy products a DMS would carry local brands one finds in a rustic local Mom & Pop store ... it is quite an eye opener.          

GARAM MASALA

While we all claim to know what 'spicy' means, many a times we will confuse that with the word 'hot' as in hot chili or hot oil in Thai or Szechuan or Tex-Mex cooking. Indian food is all about the skillful, or rather artful, application of literally hundreds of spices to create thousands of recipes. My first lesson in this learned discipline is of course Garam Masala, notably the most frequently used spice mix to prepare, among other dishes, the all time favorite Dal Maharani.

In Hindi Garam means 'hot or brings heat to the body' and Masala is simply 'a mixture of spices'. It is most common in North Indian cuisine, along with other seasonings. The essential ingredients to be toasted, and ground to powder form, without exception, are : Black Peppercorns, Cinnamon Bark Chips, Cloves, Nutmeg or Mace, Black Cardamon & Green Cardamon Pods, Bay Leaf, and Cumin Seeds. However, it is noted that ... 'the composition of Garam Masala differs regionally, with many recipes across India according to regional and personal tastes, and none is considered more authentic than others ...' there you have it.      

A word of advice for us mere mortals and amateur home cooks, buy from an Indian provision store. Try different brands and pick one that complements your taste bud, it is as easy as that. 

1ST SALVO - MURHLAI SPECIALS

One does not need to look very far to see the definition of 'bliss' as shown on my face, while being put through the paces by Chef Usha at her home kitchen. Being a bona fide meat eater, I never thought I could be so overwhelmed by vegetarian recipes until now, in New Delhi.

Without wasting a single breath, my no-nonsense Mentor-Chef introduced me to 5 of her signatures under the Mughlai category, favorite recipes handed down from the Mughal Empire which enjoyed supremacy of 331 years from 1526-1857 .. from the left at the top of the picture :

* Dal Makhami : lentil cooked for Queens in buttery gravy
* Vegetarian Plateau Biryani : tiered basmati rice & mixed veggies
* Jhatpat Shahi Paneer : instant cottage cheese for royalties in tomato-ketchup sauce
* Makhmali Kofta : velvet soft 'balls' in creamy Badami gravy or white sauce
* Lachcha Pudina Parantha : layered roti or flat-bread with dry mint powder
* Pickled Onions, Minty Yogurt Dip, Skewered Green Chili            

These may be veggie recipes but the 3 'Mother Sauces' are universal which means they can be used as bases to prepare meat, poultry or seafood dishes .. voila!

I could never imagine that only 48-hours ago I was illiterate and 5-courses later, within one day, I have taken my first step into the magical world of Indian cuisine. Hence that smile on my face which Dora dubs 'contagious'. You can never wipe it off, as long as I am in the kitchen, any kitchen.  

DEFENCE COLONY CLUB

I was taken to the neighborhood watering hole on my first dinner .. to the Defence Colony Club. If there is one thing the Raj has picked up from their colonizers it is the esprit de corps of a 'Club'. We started with drinks at the Bar which, for a moment, I thought was Men-Only judging from the decibel level. Camaraderie was abundant with handshakes, slaps on the back and hugs. The mood was infectious as a herd of waiters shuttled drinks after drinks in ballet steps. We ordered snacks with Indian whiskeys before moving to a quite dining room for my baptism to an all-veggie dinner, courtesy of my Mentor Chef Usha who is a vegetarian. It was light, refreshing, stimulating to the taste buds but the assurance I will learn these recipes in the ensuing week made the evening even more enticing.

Speaking of Men-Only this upcoming event at the Club is innovative, don't you think?        

OH ONE MORE THING ...

If you think I was full of it as there must be something not quite perfect .. well, you are right on the money. For US$50 one does not get a view. This is my balcony and what I see when I open the curtains, which is why they have remained closed. Apparently petty thefts and burglaries are still common and despite police coverage and neighborhood vigilante residents are simply not convinced, hence this prison like set-up is de-rigurer all over. I am told 'there is nothing to worry about' which I am sure is the case, until we have to worry about it.

Que Sara Sara ... at least I know someone cannot possibly get in from the outside, look at my fortress! 

STALLEN HOSPITALITY

CX697 was delayed in Hong Kong so it was 105am when we landed in Delhi last night. Believe it or not there was a long queue at Immigration. Flight time was 5.5 hours but it took another 2.5 hours between getting off the aircraft to entering my room at 330am.

Stallen Suites in Defence Colony, a suburb of Delhi about 8km from the city center. I do not have a single clue where I was and the diver meandered through one circle to another because the subdivision gates were closed after certain hours and it was almost by luck we found it.

Speaking of old world charm, what a breath of fresh air. For starters I had to sign a huge register, IN BLOCK CAPITALS PLEASE, the Receptionist quietly reminded me .. with the 'age' column front and center. I dared not look at his face when I put down 66 as I could well be their first guest over 40 judging from earlier entries. The setting was '80s, a tad tired but very homely. BTW the theme of my cooking sojourns is "Back to Basics" and the Stallen has met all my requirements of simplicity, efficiency and practicality. The sheets clean, the shower works, the in room WiFi flawless and the cabled TV stations a-plenty including amazing Indian cooking shows. All of this, plus breakfasts, for US$50 a night! Welcome to my reality check, the world I love, and missed.

STALLEN SUITES & APARTMENTS
A-153 Defence Colony New Delhi 110024
(91) 11 461 70124
www.stallenhospitality.com