ＴＥＳＴ　ＲＵＮ　ＶＩＡ　ＰＣ　．．

THIS HUNAN UMAMI @ CWB IS A MUST

 

We were in CWB around lunch time this past weekend and without a booking walked into this new Hunan restaurant behind Time Squate. To put it mildly we were blown away by the authenticity of the taste and the friendly service. Opened a year or so ago on the 6F of the Holiday Inn Express the immediate reaction was “fresh & clean”!  It felt that everything is in place, and no hint of that unmistaken smell of cooking oil and in this case, spices which normally takes over your senses. The menu is substantial with a generous collection of items, some seldom seen, even at venues under the Hunan cuisine umbrella. Our waitress was a bundle of joy, bubbly and eager to introduce us to their signatures. We were hungry and greedy which led to over-ordering and we were so glad we did. Between excellent choices in the appetisers, mains and veggies the lunch was a wonderful introduction. I do not know how one should address the menu because the best and only way to is to go through it page by page, dish by dish, and order a wide selection as we did.h

Hunan Weiguan .. loosely translated as “House of Hunan Flavors” or to be more esoteric “Hunan Umami” .. is a must. Do it soon. We were told that weekend lunch time is in fact less busy. You can book a private room without a minimum charge, now, you cannnot be more civilised than that?

HUNAN WEIGUAN
6F Holiday Inn Express
33 Sharp Street East CWB
(852) 2601 2660

JEWEL IN HAY @ PRINCES

 

I was recently introduced to this “Jewel in the Hay” where (I am told) M-Star chefs go for late after service suppers in the wee hours of the morning. It is the brainchild of a young chef who hails from Guangzhou who, together with his Vietnamese wife, has certainly made a name for themselves. As the name depicts, emphasis is on that magic word “home” as they offer dishes and tastes that remind you of home, and home style cooking. Service is from 6pm until 2am in the morning when culinary giants would take over. Dinners have 2 seatings at 6pm and 8pm but both slots normally fill up quickly, especially on weekends. I do not think “walk-in” is in their vocabulary. The neighborhood has a number of eateries, almost all of have a theme, and it is great fun to explore. MTR is the best access as the restaurant is literally a 1-minute walk from Exit D of Prince Edward Station. It is always crowded with the unmistaken ambiance of successful local Cantonese joints. The kitchen is small and tight as one wonders how they manage to keep producing quality food at such a maddening pace. The front of house is friendly and no nonsense without the white table cloth facade, my kind of service.

The most popular dishes are : Seafood on Crispy Rice Patties, Steamed Crabs, Sticky Pork, Fish in Preserved Vegatables, Eel in Black Bean Sauce, Roast Pigeons, Salted Chicken .. not to mention Specialty Soups that need to be pre-ordered.    

BACK TO THE PAST

One of my often made but not often achieved New Year Resolutions for 2019 was to distance myself from the I-Phone. I have become more critical with people whose phones are like appendages to their hands. I was further shocked that my Screen Time is a staggering 8-hours per day or 50+ per week, a sad testimony to my addiction. I also discovered while my plan offers 2,500 talking minutes per month actual usage is less than 10% ie almost everything is conducted via WhatsApp, WeChat or the now antiquated Email. Worst of all, people closest to me especially my family, have become spechless. I approach my vendor with this brilliant arrangement  .. Just Voice .. only to be told quite a few of my peers ie late 60s and retired have done so already. I am no genius. Here I am with my “Nokia Banana” the best selling model when Nokia could do no wrong as the definitive market leader, for a royal sum of HK$650. My IP is now “Read Only” when I am out. Most of the time I do not even bring it, least of all to dinners where I hate sitting next to guests who absentmindedly check their phones after each course. I tried to stop taking food pictures too (for this Blog & TripAdvisor reviews) as it is now considered an act of rudeness. The picture of 3-4 phones taking the first bite of a dish when it arrives is very annoying, now that I am with the audience. At my age, I need to accept that almost nothing is urgent, unless one makes it so. Here I am “on voice only” I love to chat, call me instead.

POSTCRIPT : my Screen Time has been reduced to 5 hours per day which is still 50% away from my goal of 2.5 hours max, join me?        

SOONG KEE @ JALAN TUN H.S. LEE IN KL

 

Another hole-in-the-wall in the KL Chinatown neighborhood I checked out (and liked) was Soong Kee on Jalan Tun HS Lee which is a major road crosswise with the main drag by the Central Market. I am a fan of Axian, the Malaysian Chinese “Food Guru” on AFC or Asian Food Channel which I watch regularly for inspiration. He was just introducing Soong Kee a few weeks ago and here I am, perfect timing. Here is the story .. Soong Kee is renowned for its Beef Lo Mein and the guy in the red polo was Mr Congee selling across the street as a competitor. One day the two owners decided 1 plus 1 could mean 3 or even 4 so they joined hands. The rest is history as the partnetrship has been hugely successful serving KL locals, out-of-towners and tourists like me, who need the menu. In greed I ordered the famous Mixed Pork Innards Congee, Steamed Chicken, Plain Wonton & Veggies .. way too much but it was an excellent sample of what they do best because every table ordered the same items, almost. I loved everything and my only issue is the congee can be less salty. The place is high keyed, quite stressful in fact, with all the customer traffic and the help rushing around at dinner time. To put on a positive spin this is Soong Kee’s unique ambience, the ingredient that qualifies a successful road side street food joint that M-star restaurants can never accomplish, no matter how hard they try. The name is now on my “Must Return” list and I urge you to put it on yours.     

THE REAL DEAL

I am always looking for the underdog whilst on my study tours. Here is one for you .. a tiny hole-in-the-wall on Jalan Sultan in the KL Chinatown neighbourhood, run by a Mother & Daughter team. These folks have the broadest and friendliest smiles that will bring the sun out in the middle of a thunderstorm. Their signature is Fried (not Char I was reminded) Kuey Teow and in my book it deserved all the accolade. This is a roadside stop one would walk right past so one needs to keep a careful look out for it. The genuine flavour, al dente noodles, perfect seasoning, not to mention the ambience of chowing it down on the pavement .. made the encounter memorable. We talked about the ridiculous costs of eating in Hong Kong and I told them they will win hands down if they should open a branch with me. If you are still not convinced that banana leafs held a plate of goodies for MYR4 or a mere HK$8 .. what do you have to say to that?  

SMILE MALAYSIA

Thailand clams to be “The Land of Smiles” but I found recently that Malaysia is slowly encroaching on that claim. There is something about Malaysia that attracts me and the genuine friendliness of the people is one prime reason. I am on my way to Sandakan Sabah of North Borneo where I heard the “street food scene” is vibrant. I am making a stop in Kuala Lumpur and these were taken just off the street .. top one I was helping the girls to take a shot with the KLCC as backdrop and the bottom one are service staff from a food court who actually asked to have tehir pictures taken. I travel alone on these study tours and it is always a joy to add these human angles to what I do. Food may be my aim but the people behind the food are actually more fascinating.

 

MEET MY ROOMMATE

I saw this baby on the wall when I checked ino the Naza Talyya. He or she must love me as I keep seeing him the last 2 days. I am at this 3-star establishment on the 'quieter' side of Johor Bahru Sentral (yes in Bahasa it is spelled with an S not a C) which I asked for as it is cost-efficent. At reception I was told most guests are transit business people from other parts of the country and 'we have very few tourists'. OMG what does that mean? Later on I found out everything works ... great shower, excellent breakfast, friendly, smiling service, and complementary internet access. Of course there is no travel desk, no duty manager and probably other no's as well but for HK$1000 I get 3 nights, what more can one asks? By the way their lobby music is '50 classic tunes too.

This was an old blog I wrote in 2011 when I was on a sojourn in Johor Bahru but I never published. I am now in Malaysia transitting Kuala Lumpur for Sandakan Sabah so this ia as good a time to return to the fold, with your permission.

BACK TO THE BLOG

It was 2 years ago almost to this date in 2017 when I stopped writing on this blog. It was by no means intentional but rather a combination of happenings, some out of our control. 2 key events in the family; firstly our Matriarch, affectionately known to everyone as Grandma, left us shorty after she turned 97. We missed her wisdom and her matronly love a great deal. Secondly to console us the Almighty sent us Robyn, our third grandchild after Jamie & Sonya, and what a delightful baby she turns out to be.

Now the confession .. the major reason for my delinquency is my becoming a key contributor to TripAdvisor the past two years. I have close to 75,000 readers globally who clicked on my Restaurant Reviews from my travels. This has become “addictive” so much so it directly led to the negligence of this space, much to my regrets. I have therefore made it a 2019 Resolution to return and here is my penance.

My Boss joins me to wish everyone a Happy Lunar New Year of the Pig. If it is not too much do ask do take a moment to think of the animal before you put that morsel of Char Siu, Iberico Ham, Prosciutto, Katsudon, Sausage, Hot Dog, Roast Crispy Belly, Smoked Bacon ... be grateful.  

Gong Xi Ga Cai to you all !!!!

ARROZ? LOOK NO FURTHER ...

When in Spain do what the Spaniards do .. Arroz! All this time I was trying to differentiate between what they do in Valencia, in Madrid and of course in our favorite city Barcelona but let me put it this way .. it does not matter. Why? It is because each style tastes slightly different and the chef's interpretation is what makes the dish unique. 

I strongly believe I have the perfect answer in Pez Vella at the beach front W Hotel complex in Barcelona. Chef Rosanna Pando is a no-nonsense professional, you only need to peer at her super efficient open kitchen if you want proof. Our party of 10 ordered 4 of their top selling Arroz recipes, at lunch, plus simple but the freshest appetizers from the sea. They all came out with flying colors, figuratively and literally. Pez Vela defined "value-for-money" as the kind of eatery that diners would keep going back. I certainly would if I were a local, and how I wish. Skip breakfast, make yourself hungry, plan to skip dinner as well and then order a variety of their starters, salads and of course the piece de resistance .. Arroz! You will not regret it.

PEZ VELA CHIRINGUITO
www.grupo.traguluz.com/restaurante/pez-vela
Paseo del Mare Nostrum
19/21 W Hotel
08039 Barcelona 
(34) 932 21 6317

3-STAR LASARTE @ BARCELONA

Via the introduction of my Mentor-Chef Jaume Brich in Barcelona we were extremely fortunate to dine at Lasarte back in November, on the eve of our boarding a Seabourn cruise. Our group also witnessed "history being made" as we were the last party to occupy their private room, as a 2-Michelin Star restaurant. We left around midnight and she was awarded the triumphant 3rd M-star the very next day. It was a very well deserved recognition.

I am center left when it comes to M-stars as every now and then one wonders how and why they are awarded. Not here, not at Lasarte where they were scores went through the roof at almost every aspect of our experience. Creativity and tastes of the food aside other scores were all at the top such as; avant-garde serving wares, exquisite all-you-want-to drink matching wines, extravagant and seamless service of no less than 7 waiting staff on our table of 14, and do not forget the friendliest and super efficient receptionist when I called from Hong Kong to book the table. We needed no convincing, we actually wondered aloud at dinner why it was not a 3-star already. This super dining extravaganza (it is belittling to call it dinner) was E270 per head, not inexpensive, but worth every Euro, in particular the fond memory which is priceless. We were delighted to meet the talented young chef who not only "wowed" us with his tasting menu, but later told us he was the brain behind Vasco in Hong Kong. What a coincidence. Trust me, Lasarte is a definite "must" on your culinary wish list. It really does not get any better than this.

EXCELENTE!

LASARTE
www.restaurantlasarte.com
C/Mallorca 259
08008 Barcelona
(34) 934 45 32 42

BACK ON SEABOURN ODYSSEY

The last time we were on the Odyssey she was a brand new beauty and that was only 9 years ago, before my retirement, Seabourn is still our favorite, tracking back to our first cruise on the Pride with only 245 on board. 650 on the Odyssey is unimaginable, let alone those monstrosities that carry thousands, where one is asked to pick "either the 1st or 2nd dinner seating". Now how much more vulgar can it get?

"Moroccan Gems & Canary Islands" is the name of the cruise we took last Noverber, a 14-day voyage from Barcelona to Lisbon, with stops in Malaga, Tangier, Casablanca, Arrecife, San Sebastian de la Gomera, Santa Cruz de la Parma, Tenerife, Funchal in Madeira and Portimao .. what a mouthful. To make the airfare worthwhile, we spent an extra 5-days each in Barcelona and Lisbon which, in hindsight, was probably too ambitious at our not so tender age.      

The picture on the right, taken before sunset from the pier in Casablanca is, without any doubt the best salon shot in my album of thousands. Breathtaking is an understatement!

GOD HAS EYES ... AFTERALL

I am in Lisbon at the end of a cruise with Seabourn to the Canary Islands and Morocco when the news of 689's announcement hit all my social media channels like wildfire.

While the earth shattering decision came at the coat tail of his hospital visit to see his not so well child, which I can identify and truly sympathize with as another always anxious Dad, the idea that 689 can no longer claim "leadership" in our little village brings relief, albeit temporary.

God has eyes .. let us see what else He has installed for us. Hong Kong can sleep better, for now.   

FISHERMAN ONE 漁一

I have, quietly, become an ardent fan of Fisherman One in Causeway Bay. No, it is not a Japanese restaurant, but an honest to goodness classic Cantonese joint that carries all traditions of this unique cuisine to the hilt. Created by 3 partners 7-years ago their success is almost entirely via "word of mouth". I was introduced by a foodie friend and subsequently no less than a dozen of my best pals have been converted. It is close to pure magic.

Most younger folks go for Hot Pot which they are renowned but we oldies are more inclined to their litany of nostalgia 小炒. The pictures shown are 3 of our top favorites : NZ Diamond Clams with glass noodles in broth, tea-smoked local chicken with gizzards, salt-baked line-caught Sea Bream with Yunnan Ham sprinkles. The piece-de-resistance and a must-order is ; clay pot roasted Tiger Prawns with whole black pepper corns, baby leek stalks, whole baby garlic cloves all drown in salted butter. You will never be the same after your first taste of this dish.

FISHERMEN ONE
... ask for 勇哥 Partner & Manager
(852) 2882 8782
3F Bartlock Center 3 Yiu Wah Street ... behind Times Square in CWB
  

FULLKA 富家

When I was in my 30s .. my daughter's age now .. I used to be annoyed when eating out with my father, the walking definition of stubbornness when it comes to trying new things on the food front. "I know what I like and I know where to get them so leave me alone" he used to say.

Fast forward 30 years, in my 60s now, I find myself an almost exact copy of Dad. I keep going back to places I like, ordering the same dishes. You are right, Dad, why change?

The time honored menu of Chef Lee @ Fullka at the Butterfly Hotel is squarely in this category. We just had one of our regular 'Guys Lunch' there today and we ordered; thinly sliced mini abalone cooked in a brass pan over scallion and leek, literally for 90 seconds, one of my all-time favorites. The other was their signature, braised giant grouper in tofu gravy. I must had these at least 100 times, if not more. Here is the math .. 10 visits a year for the past 10 years. Voila!

FULLKA - 李師傅
1F Butterfly Hotel
39 Morrison Hill Road Wanchai
(852) 2834 8378

ROAST PORK BELLY

Ask a home cook for a roast pork belly recipe it is likely you will end up getting a few, and the same goes to roast chicken. At TKT we tried everything from East to West, expecting the ultimate, only to be disappointed as 'they never taste the same' as one expects. We used to poached them first, refrigerate, pin holes all over the skin, different salts .. all too complicated for the cause, that is, a chunk of well cooked juicy belly with a crispy skin, that's all.

Then I watched the Maestro in a 'Short', a 2" presentation between programs and the penny dropped. We have been using this very simple recipe since, with excellent results almost every time.

Essentially : take a good cut, make sure it is dry, rub evenly with olive oil and salt but not too much, put on a trevet in a roasting tray, add a layer of water underneath to pick up the jus for gravy later, solid oven at 160C for 1.5 to 2 hours bottom shelf, watch the last 10-15" to make sure the skin does not burn ... done.

Marco Pierre White Roast Pork Belly!    

BACK TO THE KITCHEN ...

Before I can blink half of 2016 was gone, just like that. We were in Kyoto, in Cuba, in Beijing, in Maine ... I moved from one country to the next but I hardly cooked. I made copious notes from my travels, inspired along the way but never had time to put them on a plate. I hate myself. To correct the dire situation I spent a day back in the kitchen and tried out a few recipe ideas which made me feel 'whole' again. These two are simple, tasty and they work in any home kitchen.      

* Poached Prawn on a bed of Yuzu pickled red onions with Tobiko garnish
* Pan-fried Atlantic Cod Fillet on Prawn Bisque served with an Oyster Beignet

I feel good, I am back!      

ZITHER 古琴

Chiu Chow cuisine has become a bit out of fashion these days as the trend moves to Japanese and Korean street foods. While the big names continue to dominate the scene we do not see that many newcomers ... until Zither came along. It has been a while and this is a much needed breath of fresh air, to reinstate the rightful place of 潮州菜 in our community.

What is good there? Everything! Just order the classics and you will not be disappointed. I guarantee your taste buds will be returned to the rightful culinary origins of Chiu Chow cuisine. We particularly enjoyed the Starter Plate of Mixed Goodies and the Baby Oyster Omelette, as shown. The high point of the dinner was, without question, the Steamed Congo Eel .. "河鰻 or 白鱔 ".. wrapped in lotus leave and served in a broth of white pepper and preserved vegetable, a real tear-jerker, if you know what I mean.

ZITHER
www.zither.com.hk
4F The Phoenix 21-25 Luard Road Wanchai
(852) 2967 9322 ask for Ada Chu      

SILVER ROOM

The Tin Hau and Fortress Hill area has become quite a foodie thoroughfare of late, with creative eateries that cater to the increasingly sophisticated needs of Hong Kong residents who gained first hand food knowledge from their travels. It has also attracted young chefs from overseas whose ambition has nothing to do with 5-star hotels or 3-star Michelin establishments.

Chef Taka-san at the Silver Room of the boutique Tuve Hotel on 天后清風街 is one of them.

The entrance is imposing but discreet, and there is no sign of the hotel either, it reminds me of a secretive Masonic Temple. Seating is about 35 max and the decor minimalist. The menu is classic Italian but 'almost all ingredients are imported from Japan'. Taka-san is a shy young man with nervous energy but his interpretation of rustic Italian cooking is flawless. His pastas are as good if not better than any self proclaimed Italian joints in town. My favorites are their Primi Piatti; Uni, Beef Cheek and Summer Truffles Pastas. One another 'must-try' is the Octopus Salad with Yuzu Dressing, fresh and divine. Sharing and BYO are welcome. On our first visit we ordered every dish on the menu for tasting, Italian family style. For Dolci try the house desserts Semifreddo & Rum Baba. Then comes the real show stopper .. the bill .. it is the walking definition of Best-Value-for-Money in our convoluted food scene today.

Karcia Ng the Manager is very good news, a great front-of-house complement to Taka-san. Try out this place, you hear it from me, and you will thank me for it.              

SILVER ROOM
www.silveroom.hk
GF Tuve - 16 Tsing Fung Street Tin Hau Hong Kong
(852) 3995 8988
Karcia Ng @ 9634 9785 

AMERICA!?

I spent my formative years from 18-25 in New England and in so many ways my host family the Cochranes has instilled in me the "Americanism" which has become one of the stilts of my persona.

From the news we see dirty politics, untrustworthy politicians, crazy people on the street who shoot at will, police violence plus a litany of social issues ad nauseum. The million dollar questions we all ask are from the other side of the world is ... what is happening to America, has she gone mad?

My recent reunion with the family I grew up with yielded a totally different perspective. Obviously the America I remember and treasure is still around. With my siblings I was able to reinstall our faith on family values, decency and what it means to be living. On the farmer's deck at my brother's retirement home we were able to engage in metaphysics, amidst the dribbles of an evening downpour. Life stood still, carrying us back to the 60's and 70's with Dad holding court. We covered the frailties of being human, America on the world stage, the mystery of death and dying, our legacy to the next generation and how we should manage our remaining years without regrets.

Yes, America is alive and well .. these are not her best moments but she will survive and move on to higher grounds. I hope that will come soon.

God Bless America!