KEBAPCI HALIL

Taking a break from our history lessons our guide Leyla took us to a 'locanta' aka a local restaurant in Denizli a town in the Pamukkle region, near the ancient city of Hierapolis. Alibasoglu, a Kebapci Salonu that has survived 4 generations of be-moustached Turks, was truly a culinary experience. This unique eatery is in the old part of town, where kebap joints compete aggressively but according to Leyla the locals love this one because their own Grandparents were patrons when Grandpa Albas was cooking, or should we say, grilling so it is a loyalty play from family to family.

There are only 2 items on the menu, lamb ribs and lamb heads, both perfectly grilled in their age old brick oven. Halil, whose name is on the wall, is 3rd generation but he only looks after the front of house these days, taking money from and pictures with guests ... those who are privileged enough to be 'in the know' via words of mouth, like us. His son, the 4th generation, is grilling now. Well kept skills and tricks of the trade have been successfully passed on, the empire is secured for the immediate years ahead.

Eating here is a lazy-man's delight as all meats are shredded from the ribs, and the head carefully dissected with all parts .. cheek, eye sockets, brain, upper palate, tongue, forehead, chin are served separately on a plate of warm and soft flat bread, with a light sprinkle of cumin based 'secret' spice. The only missing link, the eye balls, where did they go? It may sound uncomfortable to some but once you dig in - with your hands of course, sorry, no utensils as the sign on the wall says - you cannot stop. Even Dora, who can be squeamish, was going for the head plate with fervor. Yogurt drinks are de rigueur, along with very sweet slices of huge tomatoes in season, raw onions and extremely hot green chili peppers.

What an unforgettable and sumptuous treat!

ALIBASOGLU
Kebap Salonu - Halil Albas
Eski Saraykoy Caddesi 357 Sokak 3E Denizli Turkey
(90) 258 261 13 57
www.kebapcilhalil.com