ROAD FOR THE DEAD @ HIERAPOLIS

Known as the 'sacred city' because of the large number of temples Hierapolis was founded in the 2nd Century B.C. and it was also the city where one can see a significant collection of sarcophagi, the plural for sarcophagus or, stone coffins. Do you know what this not so common word means? "Flesh Eaters" ... I kid you not. We walked past an entire avenue of sarcophagi, some were inscribed with the life of the dead and others ornately decorated.

There is a striking similarity between what the Romans did over 2000 years ago, verses what the Chinese did and still do today and that is, ensuring the dead will have access to personal belongings when they enter the nether world. In the local museums we saw the excavated collection of items accompanying the dead. We used to do that but over time the practice has changed to symbolic offerings, in the form of gadgets made by paper for burning, believing the dead will 'take delivery' wherever they might be. I still remember going to funerals as a child, which were elaborate affairs where paper houses, cars, maids, drivers, TVs and of course majong sets were offered. I am afraid this unique industry is dying if not already dead but for those players who survived it is a totally different ball game. Obviously client needs ... both for the dead and the living ... have changed and the product lines must follow. I heard the favorite orders these days are; I-Pads, mobile phones, name brands, sports cars, yachts and even cruise ships.

Further proof of conspicuous consumption, even in our after life.                

KEBAPCI HALIL

Taking a break from our history lessons our guide Leyla took us to a 'locanta' aka a local restaurant in Denizli a town in the Pamukkle region, near the ancient city of Hierapolis. Alibasoglu, a Kebapci Salonu that has survived 4 generations of be-moustached Turks, was truly a culinary experience. This unique eatery is in the old part of town, where kebap joints compete aggressively but according to Leyla the locals love this one because their own Grandparents were patrons when Grandpa Albas was cooking, or should we say, grilling so it is a loyalty play from family to family.

There are only 2 items on the menu, lamb ribs and lamb heads, both perfectly grilled in their age old brick oven. Halil, whose name is on the wall, is 3rd generation but he only looks after the front of house these days, taking money from and pictures with guests ... those who are privileged enough to be 'in the know' via words of mouth, like us. His son, the 4th generation, is grilling now. Well kept skills and tricks of the trade have been successfully passed on, the empire is secured for the immediate years ahead.

Eating here is a lazy-man's delight as all meats are shredded from the ribs, and the head carefully dissected with all parts .. cheek, eye sockets, brain, upper palate, tongue, forehead, chin are served separately on a plate of warm and soft flat bread, with a light sprinkle of cumin based 'secret' spice. The only missing link, the eye balls, where did they go? It may sound uncomfortable to some but once you dig in - with your hands of course, sorry, no utensils as the sign on the wall says - you cannot stop. Even Dora, who can be squeamish, was going for the head plate with fervor. Yogurt drinks are de rigueur, along with very sweet slices of huge tomatoes in season, raw onions and extremely hot green chili peppers.

What an unforgettable and sumptuous treat!

ALIBASOGLU
Kebap Salonu - Halil Albas
Eski Saraykoy Caddesi 357 Sokak 3E Denizli Turkey
(90) 258 261 13 57
www.kebapcilhalil.com

APHRODITE TEMPLE

The star of the show in Aphrodisias is, of course, the Aphrodite Temple or rather the dominating entrance to the Temple which the prominent archaeologist Professor Kenan Erim spent 30 years of his life studying, researching and excavating the site. He was eventually buried next to the site, facing the entrance, scrutinizing every soul that walks through, I am sure. One interesting observation is the statue of Aphrodite, the God of Love, was presented rather differently from the Hellenic version, probably the result of incorporating the Anatolian subculture at the time. It was indeed a wise decision, one that could only come from a leader of high EQ and political wisdom. The gate, in its full glory, is a sight to behold    

THEATER & STADIUM

Aphrodisias is 'one of the most impressive ancient cities of Anatolia' with well preserved buildings and magnificent sculptures from 2nd century B.C. to Roman times ie 2200 years ago. With an estimate population of 100,000+ a sprawling spread of spectacular structures still stands from public plazas, council chambers, baths to the mind boggling amphitheater and the stadium that could hold 30,000 ! Just close your eyes for a moment, bring yourself back to that era and imagine what it must be like back then. Can you hear the chorus behind the stage at the theater? Can you hear the thunderous cheers from the stands at the stadium? I can, loud and clear, but I go beyond that. I can even hear the moans and groans from the thousands of slaves who spent practically their entire work life on one project, the regimen of anxious engineers trying to line up the arches and support pillars, the army of skilled craftsmen who decorated the stone columns with marble slabs and, lastly the middle management task masters who drove everyone insane, right? It may be the Cecil DeMille version from Hollywood but it was vivid, it was uncanny. All of a sudden these folks came to life around me, they took my breath away as I sat in their midst in Aphrodisias, totally mesmerized.    

ARA GULER

At 87 Ara Guler is one of the best known photographers in Turkey. Affectionately known as the "Eyes of Istanbul" his international career, starting as Time-Life's first Near East correspondent, has brought him international fame. At Aphrodisias there is a small photo-museum with a wonderful display of his work, before one explores this archaeological site.

Apart from breath-taking shots of the landscape he was able to capture the hey days of excavation when local inhabitants used whatever materials they could access to build homes. That theme aside we also saw amazing pictures like this lone horseman navigating collapsed marble columns, with the amphitheater as a back drop, It was sheer brilliance.

This tiny Ara Guler collection is a must before one sets foot on Aphrodisias' sacred grounds.    

INCIDENTALLY ....

The weather was very kind to us. We were all braced for extremely hot 35C+ days but were pleasantly blessed by the light cool breeze, the low humidity, and the cloudless blue sky. Getting to Korfez about 8pm we were given front row seats to a glorious sunset on the promenade.
    

KORFEZ @ IZMIR

We checked into the waterfront Swissotel Grand Efes and asked for a seafood dining recommendation within walking distance and Korfez came up.

Not unlike Hong Kong, no diner worth his weight would ask for the menu, our guide told us. One would check the catch-of-the-day instead, which we did. "Try the red mullets, they are in season" said our waiter in earnest and who were we, accidental tourists, to argue?  Let me tell you this, he was right on the money, we never had better. Lightly floured, seasoned and probably shallow fried they were heavenly fresh and juicy. We had two each ... should have four if we were smart ... and also ordered a 1-kilogram grilled Sea Bream to share which did not quite compare. In addition we had cold and hot mezze and the highlights were; pickled baby octopus, marinated sardines and eggplant puree ... all washed down by a bottle of Emir, a chardonnay from local grapes, the only item that did not make the grade. The damage for 3 was TL450 or HK$1,350 which was very reasonable.

The staff was efficient and very friendly, the kind of service that encourages tips. If you are in the Izmir neighborhood, do not miss Korfez, it is worth it.

KORFEZ
Ataturk Cad 182-A 1 Kordon Izmir
(90) 0232 421 01 90  

DONER KEBAB

They call it Shawarma in the Middle East or Gyro in NYC but here in Turkey, or Germany for that matter, it is Doner. It means 'rotate' I am told, which is self explanatory. The column of meat can be chicken, beef, lamb or even mixed meats, but rarely pork I do not think because of Muslim diet restrictions. The column is tightly packed, rolled, slowly rotated and grilled like a vertical rotisserie. The chef will then shave off the browned parts in thin slices, collect them in a steel ladle along with the precious jus, wrap them in either pita or flat bread, before adding spreads like hummus, tahini, pickles and salads. People order Doner either in 'wraps' or on a plate with rice, a heavy buttery sauce and a side salad. To show respect two wraps would be the bare minimum.    

Petek Doner is a landmark in the middle of the famous Kemeralti Market in Izmir. The shop carries a unique old-world charm, and is run by an extremely sociable chef who obviously is part of the furniture, and two almost shy young men. It was my first meal in Izmir, and the best street food lunch I could hope for .., total gratification at TL7 or US$2+ per 'wrap'.

PETEK DONER
Anafartalar Cad 80 Kemeralti Izmir
(90) 232 484 85 63

TRAVEL IN STYLE

We are using the services of Abercrombie & Kent again and one of their strong suits is land transport. On our Italian tour the A& K drivers looked like models from GQ ... tall, lean, clean shaven, linen suited, Prada driving shoes and bespectacled with the latest Ray-Bans. Here in Turkey the flashiness is not on the ones behind the wheel but the wheel itself.

Look ,,, we are spoiled by a barely 2-month old Mercedes 8-seater which we have never seen before, surely not in Hong Kong. Mrs Tang here is enjoying the morning papers en-route, with her feet up, because the 2 rows at the back face each other, and they are wide enough one can actually lie down, Talking about indulgence it does not get any better (or worse, depending on your point of view) than this, does it? We will be spending 8 days with this baby and we are in heaven.  

CANDLELIGHT IN FLIGHT

We started our eagerly awaited 2-week sojourn of the Aegean region of Turkey yesterday and of course, we flew Turkish Airline which, without any doubt, is Numero Uno in our book. Hospitality is prominently displayed from the moment one enters the cabinet, greeted by a fully attired chef complete with a traditional toque. I am no fan of in-flight food, in any class, but this airline has moved my stubbornness slowly, but surely. In my humble view the ultimate test is in the omelette which many tried at breakfast but almost everyone fails, except these folks. I love their eggs ,. skillfully flipped, not a tinge of brown, moist, and always perfectly adequately seasoned. Adding to this delight was 3 crispy sticks of asparagus tips in season.  Food does not get 'cooked' in the galley, we know that, but these omelettes looked and tasted like they just came out of your own kitchen. Mine was better than all the ones I tried when I was at Le Corodn Bleu.

One more thing, dinner was a candle light service, albeit a battery version, flickering faintly in a translucent paper container ... 'candle light dinner high above the clouds' ... it says. It was strategically placed between me and my spouse of 33 years and if not for her attention being taken away by Russell Crowe in The Water Divider, it could almost be a romantic encounter.

Turkish Airline was voted the Best Airline in Europe, they deserve it, and they should challenge everyone else including our so-called Asia World City carrier which does not even come close.        

QUOTABLE QUOTES

This one is very relevant to the farce that unfolds daily at our political arena ....

"When you are dead, you do not know that you are dead. It is only difficult for the others.

It is the same when you are stupid."