YENI LOKANTA

Off the ever busy thoroughfare of main drag Pera, walking downhill into a small alley, is Yeni Lokanta, literally translated as 'New Canteen or New Eatery'. This oasis is described by some as the first salvo of the culinary revolution in Istanbul, signalling the arrival of the New Istanbul Cuisine. Yeni is the 'trendy hot spot' for local upmarket diners as well as the Trip Advisor crowd.

Civan Er, the owner, apparently worked with Changa (the first fusion restaurant in Istanbul we are told) and ' .... when he is ready to do his own thing, he did not open another French restaurant with a Turkish twist but rather an eatery that seriously rethinks the typical Turkish fare', From the Tadim Menusu or Tasting Menu we had, we concur, as it was indeed a Turkish meal. That said, Yeni carries an unmistakable mood of a chic French bistro with a black & white tiled floor, a sour dough station, the uniform of the wait staff and so on ... excellent ambiance, and very un-Turkish.

TADIM MENUSU

* green beans with burnt yogurt from Denizli
* marsh samphire with plums
* carrot spread with ginger & walnut
* Bulghur salad with seasonal sour cherries
* Koftes with Helloumi & vegetables
* yogurt & zucchini flower fritters
* string beans with peach & Bergama cheese
* spicy Antep sausage with walnut & warm Borlotti bean puree
* dried aubergine Manti dumplings with Antochian yogurt sauce
* Kadajifi wrapped custard fritters
* smoked buffalo milk ice cream with honey
* bitter almond meringue with strawberries
* Cay & Kahve ... tea & coffee

This tasting menu for two is 210TL or US$110 which is very reasonable. That said, we did not feel 'gratified' if you know what I mean, partly because the 'mains' are of the same size as the 'mezze' so we felt like we had a non-stop barrage of appetizers, and then desserts. I recommend you pick from the main menu instead, which offers ample portions. It is well worth a visit, if nothing else to be a bystander of  the 'revolution' but as impressive and as professional as she is, I am sorry to report that Yeni has not won our hearts.

YENI LOKANTA @ www.yenilokanta.com
TomTom Mah
Kumbaraci Yokusu
66 Beyoglu Istanbul
(90) 212 292 25 50