CHEF GIOVANNI GREGGIO

Here he is, in his full glory, the legendary Chef Giovanni who made a name for Nicholini at the Conrad. Cooking is his life, 54 years of it to be exact, until his retirement. He was recently persuaded to return to head Gradini. Chef Giovanni is energetic, knowledgeable, humorous, engaging but above all there is this unmistaken 'old school' air about him that I find attractive. He was busy working the restaurant throughout the evening ... shaving seasonal white truffles, supervising deboning, checking plate temperature, bantering with regulars and charming first timers ... things beyond the pass that every chef should do but only a fraction of that community could, or even want to.

This picture with my two heroes will one day make history. Chef Giovanni in the middle, flanked by Chef Christoph Suter (HKJC) who was a close ally and colleague from their Conrad days, and yours truly, a blissful wannabe who just had a plateful of super pastas and a Bistecca alla Florentina.

Life cannot come any better ... do visit Gradini soon while he is still at the helm.

http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-wine/article/1622998/giovanni-greggio-comes-out-retirement-run-gradini-central

GRADINI @ POTTINGER

We heard about the return of Chef Giovanni Greggio, of Nicholini fame, who came out of retirement to run Gradini Ristorante Italiano at the neatly appointed boutique hotel on Stanley Street ... The Pottinger ... but it was not until last night were we able to visit the Maestro.

It was an excellent dinner, one that brought back the lost charm of rustic Italian fare that seems to have wavered in the fiercely competitive 'one-upsmanship' world of culinary creativity. The two best entries for the evening were : Pasta 3-Ways and the Chef's rendition of Bistecca alla Florentina. On one plate we had Tuscany Sausage Rigatoni, Angel Hair Vongole, Lobster Fettuccine ... a most rewarding symphony of tastes and textures. The beautifully rare short loin T-bone steak was next, served with 4-sauces. It was just beyond words, an instant reminder of the real thing, in the Central Market in Florence. We also had Lamb Rack and a Line Caught Sea Bass from Italy baked in salt but they did not come anywhere close. I will definitely go back, for the Pastas, and the Bistecca ... again, and again.

GRADINI
21 Stanley Street or 74 Queen's Road Central : 2308 3088
www.thepottinger.com      

E1 PORK BURGER @ MERCATS

There was commotion over the weekend at the square in front of Barcelona's trade mark Gothic cathedral, where the spirit of Gaudi looms, probably next to Picasso from his youth.

Mercat de Mercats was billed as 'The Grand Festival of Food Products' in the city and indeed it was. Totally mobbed it took a good 2 hours to check every stall, each with a unique theme and mostly representing Cataluna. The sub culture here is almost identical to ours, where every other activity has something to do with food, and eating. It was educational to not only learn, but to sample an array of truly Spanish specialties.

Epilogue : it was almost closing time and vendors were pushing sales. At one stall everything, I mean everything, was to go for E1, as shown. I had a burger made from pork, onion marmalade and spices. It was meticulously warmed and served with an even warmer smile by a beautiful young woman. We paid E195 per head for dinner at the 3-star Arzak in San Sebastian, and the E1 burger was certainly one way to offset the damage. Yes, it is an apple and orange comparison but then again, I came away happy from both encounters. Eat, and be merry cannot be more true, proven once again here at Mercat. Why not?        

CHURROS @ XURRERIA

Have you ever tasted a real 'Churros'? If not I think Barcelona might be your best bet, even though Madrid and Seville are actively bidding for the crown. Commonly known as the Spanish doughnut it is a divine little snack that one can enjoy 24-7. 'Churros y Chocolate' is a nice way to break up the day ... a stick of deep fried, super crispy sweet dough dusted with fine sugar, coupled with a small cup of hot chocolate, so thick you can stand the Churros in it.

While the guide books will direct you to classy cafes with good looking wait staff, my vote is always with the 'street folks'. Xurreria is a father and son operation in a residential neighborhood not far from the Boqueria. It is not unusual to see a queue outside, tourists and locals alike. Somehow it has become a hit to young Koreans who take Xurreria as a 'must check off' on their lists. For E2 you get a paper cone of super delicious Churros, still warm from the pastry kitchen. To complete the pilgrimage add E1.2 you get the hot chocolate to dip in. By the way make sure you also get a pack of their home made potato chips to go (in fact get several) for E0.8 as you will not be able to stop.

Look at the smiling faces of the CEO, Senor Roman at the left, and his son the COO on the right. My Mentor-Chef, a close friend of the Roman family, is in the middle.

Happy at one's job? This is what it looks like!

XURRERIA
Banys Nous 8 - 08002 Barcelona
(93) 318 76 91

      

BARCELONA

I am ahead of myself here as I am already at the end of a 7-day culinary pursuit in Barcelona but my blog is still meandering in Madrid ... pathetic, yes, but it is what it is. Between our week with "A Taste of Spain" and my amazing cooking classes time has traveled faster than lightning.

We visited Barcelona 6 years ago and liked what we saw. We liked her even more this time. Without the mandatory stainless steel and glass facade she is like a graceful lady redolent of old world charm. Spaniards are friendly, even though most people we saw on the streets might be tourists. The city is orderly, well patrolled by police .. at different levels of deployment obviously ... and all that 'caution' about unemployment causing security issues is, at least from my time here, nonexistent.    

POPPY FOREST

Say all you want about the British Royals being an anachronism, that the Windsor Family is living a life that is out of step with reality and the rest of the world  ... but when it comes to determination to uphold traditions and remembering what made history, I give them top marks.

BBC reports that 888,246 (!!) porcelain poppies will be planted around Windsor Castle, mostly by an army of volunteers, in time to commemorate the onset of the First World War in November. That magic number represents those who gave their lives for their country 100 years ago. Take a look at the endearing picture of the royal couple, in their 90s, inspecting the Poppy Forest. Yes, all of that is a PR exercise for the media but one must respect the dedication and commitment these old folks have shown to their life long 'jobs'. How would you fare if you were in their shoes?

CATALUNA CALLOS RECIPE

The following is a recipe from Chef Jaume, my Mentor-Chef here in Barcelona. We prepared this yesterday at his professionally equipped home kitchen, as my first lesson since we loved Callos so much in Madrid. It is surprisingly simple because much of the classic stewing techniques are used.

-  put large piece of tripe in water, add juice of half a lemon, soak for 30"
-  cut into small rectangular pieces as shown
-  saute thinly sliced garlic in olive oil until infused, to fragrant but not burned
-  add diced onion, cubed carrots and cook till soft
-  add chunks of poached veal (ideally) shown next to onion
-  if not available it can be pork belly as long as it yields gelatin effect
-  add chunks of good quality Jamon ham shown next to carrot
-  add 2 kinds of sausages, Blood & Chorizo, in large round pieces
-  'grate' 2 tomatoes into the mixture, including juice & seeds but discard skin
-  add generous splash of brandy & same amount of white wine
-  sprinkle of salt, not too much, just to give flavor edge
-  add 2-3 teaspoons of smoked paprika
-  add water to slightly cover mixture, still well
-  medium heat at low simmer, do not boil
-  takes probably 1-hour until liquid reduced, watch carefully as sauce must not be dry  
-  texture of tripe is key, needs to be soft, but to individual preference
-  season at this stage if one prefers more salt, pepper, or spices (do not over season)
-  last minute stir in precooked soft chick peas, large ones if possible, do not over-cook
-  alternatively Spanish white soy beans

Chef Jaume suggests cooking this one day before, keep in fridge so the jelly will form, and reheat before service. This of course will intensify the flavors in a big way. It is best to serve with crusty bread but I think hot steamed rice might also do the trick.

This works, and it is super cool Spanish comfort food ... happy cooking!

CARNIVOROUS PARADISE

Not that we need more food but after the Parade of Jamon at 5J came the salads, and then a huge serving of meats. Before you start slicing into the juicy morsels please spend a moment to educate yourselves. Study the butcher's chart on the left and if you are still confused, like I was, follow the guide on the serving plate. I like to think they meant well, and this is not an insult to us minions who lack food culture.

JAMON IBERICO

It is worse than a maze when one tries to understand, let alone decide, the complex world of cured ham in Spain. These folks hardly even look towards the prosciutto direction, believing they have a better product. I am no judge of that but I can tell you what is being offered at the top of the charts ie Bellota or the Cinco Jotas brand, affectionately known as 5J, is very close to food for the Gods. The key to all this fuss rests with one single word, Acorns or Bellota in Spanish. Acorn fed pure bred ham is one of the most respected, not just in this country but globally.  A kilo of Jamon can range from E20 right up to 10 times that to E200+ but to the palate, even for an novice like yours truly, the margin is huge.

We were taken to this specialty venue in Madrid that belongs to a national chain. It was a religious experience, starting with a full leg of almost 'holy' Jamon front and center in the dining room that demanded respect. Our Master Carver was from the Philippines and watching him carve up paper thin slices was enough to make everyone salivate. It was a task only professional artisans can deliver. I read somewhere that 'good pigs, living or dead, need time' which is a perfect description of the cycle from rearing the black footed 'Pata Negra' to 160+ kilos, to the meticulous curing process that literally takes years. To accompany such high quality cured ham, one only needs thin pieces of toasted crusty bread with a tomato spread and, surprisingly, a nice glass of dry sherry. Voila ... road to heaven!

RESTAURANTES CINCO JOTAS @ www,restaurantescincojotas.com
Arenal 6 Madrid
(91) 255 78 48

 

CALLOS - LOVE IT

One cannot get more than Callos in the Spanish culinary agenda. Equipped with the fine dining version at La Barraca, we were on the hunt for a rustic presentation which I believe is what the recipe calls for. On our way to El Rastro, the Sunday open market, we passed El Trebo which is essentially a local pub that serves local favorites .. and what better place is there for a spot of lunch.

Prominently displayed at the center of the bar is the black board sign 'Callos de la Casa' or 'House Tripe'.  Here is my rule of thumb ... anything with a house-special slapped on it is at least worth a look, if not a taste. It took me less than 2 seconds to place an order and we were treated to the best surprise. The taste reminded me of a French Cassoulet, but with super soft tripe and equally delicious tendons, in a stew enhanced by the fatty layers on an Iberico leg of ham, chunks of blood and paprika packed sausages, and cooked to perfection white beans. Even Dora who is ever so cautious with fat, any fat, was digging into the sauce with crusty bread. For E20 we had this clay dish of Callos, a plate of white sardines with olives, and 2 beers. A simple lunch prepared with complex and hugely satisfying flavors. Life does not get any better than this, does it?          

LA BARRACA

We asked for a classic Paella restaurant where locals patronize on specialty occasions and La Barraca came up. Located on a quiet street off Gran Via she gives one the immediate feel that history is on her side. We were booked for lunch at 2pm on a Saturday but the place was empty when we arrived. We felt better when a couple without a reservation was turned away, then the roof caved in by 3pm, when the rest of the world showed up, for lunch, of course.

I was more fascinated by the parade of old photos on the wall than the Paella. Imagine being seated at the same table as the late Prince Rainier of Monaco and her consort the late Hollywood legend Grace Kelly? On the food front the highlight was not the Paella Marinera de la Casa (despite the excellent red prawns and because we had better ones in Valencia which sits on the Mediterranean coast) but the Gazpacho Andaluz and the really well done Callos a la Madrilena ie tripe. We fell in love with both, the most flavorful cold and hot dishes to date. Lunch for two was E80 including a E10 tip and what a wonderful treat it was.

LA BARRACA @ www.labarraca.es
Calle Reina 29
28004 Madrid
(91) 532 71 54

HOME COOKED SAN SEBASTIAN MEAL

My ex-partners in Madrid graciously invited us to their home for a superb evening of reunion and fine dining, home style, the best kind. The family originates from San Sebastian and has religiously kept up their culinary tradition.

Starting with a dizzying spread of Jamon Iberico, plus wines and beers with their family labels, we were introduced to two unforgettable recipes.. The starter was seasonal white asparagus on a juicy platform of perfectly stewed peas and fresh vegetables, with ham, of course. The main was an absolute first for us ... 'throat' of Hake or 'Kokotxa' ... baked in a heavenly clam broth with all the might of garlic. I cannot begin to tell you how good they were. I unabashedly indulged and over-indulged, with abundance. Our generous hosts said Kokotxa, a Basque specialty, was not known in Madrid back in the old days and fish mongers used to trash them. His grandparents managed to get these for free and created menus around them. This is what I call a deliciously heart warming tradition. Bravo to home style San Sebastian cooking.        

CALLE CLAUDIO COELLO

Let me paint you the following scenarios ... 1) if you love shopping 2) if you enjoy accompanying your better halves on shopping spree 3) if you feel guilty about something you did and wish to do penance or make amends with the Mrs or 4) if you are married to a shopaholic, like me ... then this is one avenue in Madrid you do not want to miss. You will score big points by offering to take her, and huge points by paying, all the way, from one end of this mile long avenue to the other.

This tree lined, quaint and shoppers friendly street is parallel to Calle de Serrano (along the Biblioteca Nacional grounds) where the boring global names are. Its entry point is off Puerto de Alcala which is easy to find on the map. Local designers always win the heart of my alter ego, the proverbial shopaholic, and she did well here. These folks are good at pricing, they are masters at the 'offer you cannot refuse' category. Yes, the damage was not small but the loot was very nice.

To give you an idea : on the left is a bespoke cobbler for gentlemen and ladies based in Majorca. Well made classics with reasonable price tags, considering. On the right is a pair of Loewe which I threaten to buy if she does not stop. She ignored me and carried on. Them shoes stay where they were. I lost big face, again, so what else is new?
 

LATERAL

After a hefty first dinner at L'Hardy we moved on to the quintessential tapas round on our second night in Madrid. One can either do the random sniff test and trust our nostrils or, take the easier route, to ask the hotel staff where they normally eat. The 'Lateral' came up, a popular chain around town for locals and tourists alike. This one is at Plaza Santa Ana near our hotel.  For E45 we enjoyed a spread of 8 classic tapas, plus 2 Mahou, the best selling Spanish lager which complemented the food nicely.

Worthy of mention is the 'Baby Eel', as shown. While this is a national favorite with huge following what you see is in fact not eel, but a product that looks and tastes like the real thing. It resembles the fake crab meat in Japanese food. Why? Apparently it is increasingly difficult and costly to catch these babies and to meet demands one agile business came up with this creation. 'Imitation Eel' is proudly displayed in bold print on the menu. The product is skillfully manufactured eg cut to baby eel size slivers, with silver lines to resemble the skin, and a chewy texture that can cheat the unsuspecting. I had the real thing before, in Manila of all places, and I do not think the imitation can pass the taste and texture tests. One last point ... 'if you cannot find the eyes they are not eels' ... a remark we loved.

LATERAL
Plaza Santa Anna 12
(914) 20 15 82          

L'HARDY

Somewhere in Time Revisited!

Yes, indeed, as far back as 1839 when L'hardy was created. In the brochure it says " ... L'hardy represents the splendor of High Spanish cuisine and an emblem of quality guaranteed by more than 175 years of leadership in the life of Madrid". On one wall someone wrote 'you have not been to Madrid if you have not been to L'hardy' ... there you have it.

We thought we would acclimatize with the traditional and tradition in abundance was presented ... the old school setting, the long forgotten menu, the waiter in tux, the silver service, the 'thick' ambiance, the low decibel conversation all reminded us of the 50s when we were kids being taken to that once-in-a-blue-moon western meal, when we need to practice using a fork and a knife the day before. While it was fun to relive that, being in jeans and polo the disconnect was deafening.      

* anchovies in tomato salsa
* roast red peppers piquillo or seafood & sardine sauce
* consomme L'hardy
* baked turbot in a lemon saffron sauce
* baby squids in black ink with rice
* house dessert ie L'ardy rendition of Baked Alaska
* a bottle of Pesquera ... very drinkable E38

The bill for two came to E165 plus a 10% tip to Pedro our waiter. This made him so happy he offered us a post-dinner tour of the house including of course the private rooms. We were told Le Salon Japonais still features decoration from 200 years ago, and the other salons have served royalties, dignitaries, poets, tycoons from around the world for 175 years. Imagine that? By the way, well known 'conspiracies' in Spanish history were planned here as well. What better way to start a revolution with a Pierna Cerdo Braseada & a Paella Marisco, one might ask?  

Do you realize that Spain, after Japan, is the next leading consumer of seafood and fish in the world?

L'HARDY @ www.lhardy.com
Carrera de San Jeronimo 8
28014 Madrid
(91) 522 22 07

WALKING MADRID

Unlike NYC with grids the streets in Madrid are somewhat difficult to navigate if you like to explore the town on foot like us. Most of the streets look alike as we keep asking ourselves ... did we not just pass through here a while ago? What you see are two streets next to our hotel, see what I mean?

Taste of Spain has picked the right time as it is Indian Summer here, with day time temperature up to the mid 20s, down to 15C in the evenings. It is perfect and there is always a breeze so we hardly sweat.

In the city map all we see is a maze of large and small streets or 'Calles' except for Grand Via, the main drag. The Cantonese saying ... 'all key roads lead to Rome' ... is most relevant here as the grid-less streets seem to all end up at one of the key Puertas or Plazas. We walked about 4-6 hours everyday since October 1st albeit a losing battle to counter our calorie intake.  

MADRID

The last time we visited Madrid was in 1987, our first ever, and only briefly on our way to a business meeting in Marbella. Our recollection was thin, except for an awful Paella that made a lasting impression. This time it is a 4-day acclimatization before we join a week-long foodie tour called The Taste of Spain. It will take us, by bus, from Madrid to San Sebastian to Barcelona with emphasis on the culinary subculture which, along with some of the best wines in Europe are mainstream tourism in this country. That said, we were greeted by this scene at Puerta del Sol, not far from our hotel, the Vincci Soho on Calle de Prado. The economy is still unstable here, and it drives home the point how lucky we are living in a part of the world that is still doing OK, all things considered. Even more so it forces us to reflect on the situation at home, as the uncertainties of a violent ending to the protests looms high.          

MANTI

Before we leave Istanbul I like to add one more foodie blog to introduce Manti or Turkish dumplings. One of the recipes explains it in the most simplistic but appropriate terms ' ... these are small, even tiny, dumplings stuffed with savory lamb that are tossed in a tomato sauce, and served with a sumac flavored Greek yogurt ...' full stop. Having said that, it must take a huge amount of time to make the dough and to stuff the tiny dumplings with spicy minced lamb. Apparently family members get together to form an assembly line to prepare this dish in Turkey, not unlike what the Chinese would do during festivals to prepare more or less the same product, but larger. If you Google 'Turkish Manti' you will find all kinds of recipes. Since dough of any description is my nemesis I will 'cheat' by using ready made gnocchi from Italy and stuff the lamb in them. Do you think it will work?    

49TH DAY FOR KAYA

As of today Kaya has completed her 49-day cycle, her last days with us, and should now be on her way to her next incarnation. We have to send her off with all our love and blessing.

Daddy can hear you loud and clear. Daddy will miss you and love you, always, until the day we are back together again. Go in peace and with joy ... my darling child!

CHAY OCAK

When you walk around the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul you will invariably see young men delivering tea and coffee in a tray that dangles from a tripod grip. I always wonder how logistics are managed in that massive mall and I found my answer on this trip.

Chay Ocak or 'the place to brew tea' is set up in every available but inconspicuous corners around the bazaar. Take this one for instance whose CEO, in the red apron, was kind enough to let me raise my camera. You see the phone sets behind him? I am told there are 36 individual lines, each is directly connected to a VIP customer who gives them 'key business' daily. In addition they have 4 land lines for further access. If that does not impress you his COO said they recognize immediately which line is ringing and from where. Not only that, depending on what time of the day they know what the orders would be even before they pick up.  I tell you, all that O&M and Supply Chain Management BS can take a hike. Since they only serve tea and coffee, prepaid tokens differentiated in yellow and red are used for settlement to remove the hassle of $ changing hands.

The Turks often decompress with a cup of Chay (also spelled Cay) or a Kahve and making it painless to order must be a big part of it. At 1TL or less than HK$4 a shot, life can take a temporary backseat. This modus operandi must be as old as the bazaar itself and it is sheer brilliance. I wonder if the HBS has written a study on it yet, and if not, why not?  

THE BOSPHORUS

I love the Bosporus, at any time of the day ... as shown here at 7am, in fog with a lone vessel on her crossing and later in the day, at 7pm on the waterfront, at Zuma, from the same restaurant chain as the one at the Landmark Mandarin.

If you have the time you should try to walk up and down the Strait. Using the Spice Market on the Golden Horn as a starting point, you can go South towards the Topkapi Palace or better still, go North where you can, technically, reach the mouth of the Black Sea ... it will probably take a whole day though.  I love walking along the shores, to me this is the best way to see, to smell, and to touch Istanbul via the subculture, the villages, the people, the mood, the street foods, and everything Turkish. Try it, if you want best value, for free!    

YENI LOKANTA

Off the ever busy thoroughfare of main drag Pera, walking downhill into a small alley, is Yeni Lokanta, literally translated as 'New Canteen or New Eatery'. This oasis is described by some as the first salvo of the culinary revolution in Istanbul, signalling the arrival of the New Istanbul Cuisine. Yeni is the 'trendy hot spot' for local upmarket diners as well as the Trip Advisor crowd.

Civan Er, the owner, apparently worked with Changa (the first fusion restaurant in Istanbul we are told) and ' .... when he is ready to do his own thing, he did not open another French restaurant with a Turkish twist but rather an eatery that seriously rethinks the typical Turkish fare', From the Tadim Menusu or Tasting Menu we had, we concur, as it was indeed a Turkish meal. That said, Yeni carries an unmistakable mood of a chic French bistro with a black & white tiled floor, a sour dough station, the uniform of the wait staff and so on ... excellent ambiance, and very un-Turkish.

TADIM MENUSU

* green beans with burnt yogurt from Denizli
* marsh samphire with plums
* carrot spread with ginger & walnut
* Bulghur salad with seasonal sour cherries
* Koftes with Helloumi & vegetables
* yogurt & zucchini flower fritters
* string beans with peach & Bergama cheese
* spicy Antep sausage with walnut & warm Borlotti bean puree
* dried aubergine Manti dumplings with Antochian yogurt sauce
* Kadajifi wrapped custard fritters
* smoked buffalo milk ice cream with honey
* bitter almond meringue with strawberries
* Cay & Kahve ... tea & coffee

This tasting menu for two is 210TL or US$110 which is very reasonable. That said, we did not feel 'gratified' if you know what I mean, partly because the 'mains' are of the same size as the 'mezze' so we felt like we had a non-stop barrage of appetizers, and then desserts. I recommend you pick from the main menu instead, which offers ample portions. It is well worth a visit, if nothing else to be a bystander of  the 'revolution' but as impressive and as professional as she is, I am sorry to report that Yeni has not won our hearts.

YENI LOKANTA @ www.yenilokanta.com
TomTom Mah
Kumbaraci Yokusu
66 Beyoglu Istanbul
(90) 212 292 25 50        

UNUSUAL AD

Walking the back streets near the Pera - Taksin District, where protests like what we witness at home made global news last year, we ran into this unusual advertisement. Roughly translated from Turkish, it is a Circumcision Service that can be conducted in the privacy of one's home. 'It is hygienic, inexpensive, and promises minimum pain'. This is a first for me, what about you?

VINTAGE CLASSICS @ KOC

If you are a vintage classic fan you must visit the Rahmin Koc Muzesi in Istanbul, located at the old Hoskoy Dockyard site, founded in 1861 by the Ottoman Sea Line Company on the Golden Horn. This fascinating museum for all ages is funded and managed by the Koc Foundation of the Koc family. Literally it is home to thousands of items from miniatures to classic cars, pleasure and fishing boats, military hardware, a DC-3 and even a full sized submarine. The 3 hours I spent there - it could well be 6 - easily shaved 50 years from me, I was back to 15, in awe with everything I saw and touched. I did not want to leave, there was just so much to see.

'The objects that form the collection - products of artisans and engineers - are symbolic of the skills, diligence and aesthetic sense of humankind' ... it is indeed a noble and valiant effort to preserve history so the next generation can have a perspective on how we get here. I am told that as far as possible most exhibits are meticulously, and quite incredulously, returned to pristine working condition before they are put on show. Apparently most of the cars and boats actually work.

One side note, the museum is a popular spot for wedding pictures (do not ask me why) and we saw no less than a dozen cheerful couples decked out in gowns and tuxes, posing in front of a 1942 Lincoln, a 1955 Riva, and even a spotless bronze beauty in the form of a Street Car made by Fiat.

This is memorable, and a must-see when you are in Istanbul.

RAHMIN KOC MUZESI @ www.rmk-museum,org,tr
Kaskoy Avenue 5
34445 Istanbul
(0212) 369 6600      

KIYI

From meat we move to fish, or Balik, on our second evening. KiYi is one of my all time favorites, having visited the restaurant twice before and fell madly in love with it. Like Kasibeyez it is along the shores of the Bosphorus as well, in the village of Tarabya. The promotion pamphlet says 'Akdeniz ve Karadeniz Baliklari' or loosely translated 'Fish from the Mediterranean and The Black Sea'.

We were very lucky as the catch of the season 'Homsies' & 'Lufers' are plentiful. Homies are baby anchovies which are deep fried, and Lufers are like sea bass in texture but much sweeter. KiYi can live up to the Catch of the Day claim as only in the morning we saw fishing vessels trawling just off the shore. What they caught was our dinner.  I learned from our Turkish friends to only order what is in season, on a mixed plate, as shown ... Red Mullets as dividers, Lufers with grill marks that look like veal, and Homsies lined up in the middle.  Our Mezze starters were melons .. yes fruits do come first .. soft white cheese, broad beans cooked in tomato sauce, aubergine puree, garlic olives, all yummy treats with hot crispy flat bread. Before I forget, on the KiYi menu there is an odd appetizer you must order, sauteed lamb liver slivers in a buttered dill sauce. You will thank me for this, alone.

Do brave the Istanbul traffic and drive out to KiYi, you will be royally rewarded, I guarantee.

KIYI @ www.kiyi.com.tr
Haydar Aliyev Caddesi 186/A
34457 Tarabya Istanbul
(90) 212 262 00 02            

KASIBEYEZ

If you like meat, especially lamb, and if you like Turkish cuisine then Kasibeyez on the Bosphorus is as close to your nirvana as it comes. 'We will start with meat tonight' declared our hosts and we ended up here. There must be thousands of meat restaurants in Istanbul, on both the Asian as well as the European side of the Strait. Kasibeyez, however, is one eatery that has upheld the culinary traditions from Ottoman times. Take for instance the Koftes or Turkish meatballs in which recipes date back centuries in the Sultanahmet area of the city. We started with the usual array of mouth watering Mezze, Turkey's answer to Antipasti, before the arrival of huge plates of mixed lamb goodies ... grilled chops, baby racks, braised loin, sauteed patties and of course juicy Koftes ... all surrounded by well seasoned grilled vegetables. It was the best carnivores' homecoming, one you must not miss.

KASIBEYEZ : reservation call 444 10 40 - 0212 299 5000    

UMBRELLA REVOLUTION

From the comforts of our flat beds on Turkish Airline we were rudely awaken by the news at home as soon as we landed in Istanbul. My blog is intended to cover my post retirement pursuit in the culinary arts, in street foods, in home cooking, in a life style I wish to share privately with family and friends. Not for a moment is it intended to be a political platform, no way. Call it apathy, call me whatever you wish but I am not going to be dragged into it.

One thing I can say, I am what one calls a '2-headed snake' which is a derogatory label, and I accept that. Why? I am on the one hand supportive of a less manipulated election process, but on the other I do not think Occupy Central or civil disobedience will get us there and in my best conscience I cannot say I am 100% supportive. The students are passionate, committed but they lack the maturity to be rational and can therefore be emotive, which is dangerous. There you have it. You can shoot people like me but you may run out of bullets quickly as I am no lone voice on this matter. There are just too many 'Monday Morning Quarterbacks' with pendulant comments, it is only wise for me to shut up.

One thing is certain, I am all knotted inside and my heart sank, Not being home for this historical landmark made me feel empty and left out. In my 65 years as a local boy I have never seen anything as divisive as what we face today. I am deeply troubled by what will happen next, and whatever and whenever that is, Hong Kong will never be the same. Time Magazine announced the 'Death of Hong Kong' before the handover in 1997 which was quoted left, right and center in the global press. They were dead wrong then, not so much in context, but in timing.

The verdict was 17 years too soon ... try 2014!