GRADINI @ POTTINGER

We heard about the return of Chef Giovanni Greggio, of Nicholini fame, who came out of retirement to run Gradini Ristorante Italiano at the neatly appointed boutique hotel on Stanley Street ... The Pottinger ... but it was not until last night were we able to visit the Maestro.

It was an excellent dinner, one that brought back the lost charm of rustic Italian fare that seems to have wavered in the fiercely competitive 'one-upsmanship' world of culinary creativity. The two best entries for the evening were : Pasta 3-Ways and the Chef's rendition of Bistecca alla Florentina. On one plate we had Tuscany Sausage Rigatoni, Angel Hair Vongole, Lobster Fettuccine ... a most rewarding symphony of tastes and textures. The beautifully rare short loin T-bone steak was next, served with 4-sauces. It was just beyond words, an instant reminder of the real thing, in the Central Market in Florence. We also had Lamb Rack and a Line Caught Sea Bass from Italy baked in salt but they did not come anywhere close. I will definitely go back, for the Pastas, and the Bistecca ... again, and again.

GRADINI
21 Stanley Street or 74 Queen's Road Central : 2308 3088
www.thepottinger.com