Sunday, July 19, 2009

TRUE LOVE

Here is Kaya, whispering into my ear on what I should say about her in my blog. When I got off the car the other day, after being away for 3-months, she was not quite sure how to make of it. I could feel it. She was desperately chasing after Dora instead, who has been away for merely a week. It was not until the second day, as I walked her in the morning, when 'it all came back'. Now this 15-month old Labradoodle is my shadow, who follows me everywhere, and kissing me whenever she has the chance ... I call this 'True Love'.
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HOME VS HOME

Hong Kong just had a serious typhoon (#9 signal was hoisted around midnight) and it was a powerful one. This was taken in the morning from our picture window that overlooks the south side of the island, to the South China Sea, and beyond. Breathtaking ... as the storm clears both the low pressure & the stagnant air. 'On a clear day, you can see forever' as the lyric goes. It feels good to be back in the comforts of home but as I marvel at the scenery, I could not help but feel nostalgic. All of a sudden I miss my 'other home' in Ryde, where my Metro Inn balcony looks out to LCB only a mile away. I loved sitting there with the Weekend Australian and a Petit Robusto, every Sunday. By tomorrow morning - Monday July 20th - the campus will be busy again as Intermediate begins for those who passed Basic. Uniforms, knife kits, tool boxes, bentos, conversations, laughters ... will don the busy hallways again. Equipped with 10-weeks of boot camp, my classmates will carry themselves to the envy of nervous first-timers who will be copycats of us back in April. It will be all so exciting, yet I will not be there.

I miss LCB, and my home in Ryde!
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LOT 10 @ GOUGH STREET

The family celebrated Dora & Terri's birthdays at LOT 10 in Central last night, it was a wonderful evening of family & culinary indulgence. This recently opened eatery in the nouveau trendy part of town is well worth a visit. David Lai exZuma and the Ritz Carlton in SFO, fell in love with cooking when he was at Berkeley. He may carry the title of Boss-Man (I just love it) on his business card but David is the most unassuming chef I have ever met, who obviously knows his stuff. The menu is best described as French home cooking, or comfort foods a la Francaise. What impressed everyone most is the attention given to every dish, almost all traditionla regional French cooking at their best. The list of entrees is superb ... cod, veal brain, artichoke salad, cured meats, foie gras etc If there are enough in a party I strongly recommend ordering one of each, and share Hong Kong style. The mains are classics, the duck is thinly sliced but reassembled with the carcass as shown, a very elegant presentation. In addition we had lamb chop, cassoulet, braised pork belly but the herb-salt crusted & oven baked snapper & pomfret took center stage. The wine list is very drinkable & very affordable. At $500 per head all inclusive LOT 10 wins across the board in my book for unpretentious, honest food that offers taste, style, value but above all 'comforts'. BTW the private room upstairs, good for up to 20, is excellent for cozy company or private events. The Boss-Man said he can prepare special menus. CLUB FED .... are you ready?
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WALTER CRONKITE - RIP

Boston 1968 ... barely 19, I was exposed to this 'all-time-great journalist' as a Freshman at Tufts. The 8 years I spent in America were historical, the era of an evolutionary - in fact revolutionary - America. What seems cliches now ie Flower Child; Woodstock; Make Love Not War; Black Panthers; Chicago Convention; Kent State; Moratorium on Vietnam; Campus Sit-In; Acapulco Gold ie Marijuana @ US$25 an ounce .... were front & center and Cronkite was there, daily. 'College Kids' as we were labelled, were so politically conscious then we watched his 730pm news every evening after dinner, at Carmichael Hall I even remember, where there was a 'huge' 30" television set. 'My mother will not serve dinner until Cronkite signs off', someone said in an interview yesterday. I also remember the Summer of 1969 (I was a kitchen hand/bus boy at the Christopher Ryder House in Chatham, Cape Cod) and that surreal night 40 years ago when we watched Neil Armstrong made that 'One Small Step for Man' .... Yes, Cronkite was there reporting in his usual calming but nonetheless totally amazed voice.

Knowing what I know now and after finishing a 36-year career the Cronkite name, to me, equates a litany of the best accolades one can give a career achiever. Try these : trustworthy, professional, integrity, honesty, humor, eloquence, style, dedication, fairness, commitment, ethical, legendary, charisma, mentor, counsel, icon, doyen .... and there must be many more to the list. To make Cronkite even more noble one only has to look at the daily trash in our tabloids, where circulation is determined by the BS from a fung-shui crook, by gory pictures, by human greed, by gossips around the entertainment circle ... all eagerly consumed by insatiable citizens. It is just nauseating. The world, not just America, will miss Cronkite and especially those who grew up with him, like myself.
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Friday, July 17, 2009

HELLO!

For those of you who are wondering if my blog has come to a screeching halt as soon as I hit home, the answer is a resounding, 'NO'. I fully intend to maintain the momentum, even though it will not carry the same intensity as the 12 weeks I spent in Sydney, where 124 blogs were posted.

Coming home is a reality check. Without ceremony I was immediately caught in a whirlwind of activities including of course, meals. What I have achieved in weight reduction @ LCB, from yogurt for breakfasts and a single fruit as lunch, was thrown into shambles by welcome home parties. This was predicated by fine-dining indulgence with Dora in Sydney & Melbourne. It looks like 'back to square one'. I miss the 'joy of loneliness' or the 'solace of solitude' as described in an earlier blog. I had an absolutely uncluttered mind during my short tenure @ LCB. Being alone allowed me to think much more clearly across all aspects of my life. Being home again is sweet but it comes with a 'back to reality' tag, a price one has to pay.

Aside from being busy - a whole day would pass like lightning without even touching the computer - my Acer hard disk was damaged in transition, which means I cannot hook up to my Picasa album. I am working hard to resolve both fronts. It will not be too long before the return of 'TangCanCook' so .... do not change the channel now!

Sunday, July 12, 2009

TETSUYA

We hosted Julie & Russ at Tetsuya before leaving Sydney, to thank them for being such wonderful surrogate parents the past 3-months. This dinner has historical significance as we were introduced to Tetsuya - by Julie & Russ of course - in the 1990s shortly after he opened at a much more modest location in Rochelle. We still remembered his Kumimoto oysters with sake, vinegar, shallot & chives. This is a belated gesture, almost 20 years late to be exact, to show our appreciation.

It was an unforgettable, glorious 5-hours & 15 course Degustation Menu, as follows :

* Cepe & Chestnut Mushroom Soup with Shaved Mushrooms
* Pacific Oysters with Rice Vinegar & Ginger
* Smoked Ocean Trout & Avruga Caviar
* Leek & Crab Custard
* Sashimi of Blue Fin Tuna with Wasabi & Ginger
* Confit of 'Tetsuya Petuna' - Tasmanian Ocean Trout - with Konbu, Apple, Daikon & Wasabi
* Terrine of Queensland Spanner Crab with Avacado
* Grilled Fillet of Barramundi with Braised Baby Fennel
* Twice-cooked, De-boned Spatchcock with Spelt Risotto & Manjimup Truffles
* Wagyu Beef with Lime & Wasabi
* Cannellini Beans with Mascapone & Caramel
* Pear Sorbet with Orange Jelly, Custard Apple & Mont Blanc
* Lemon Scented Floating Island with Vanilla Bean Anglaise
* Chocolate Ganache with Green Tea & Red Bean
* Petit Four & Coffee or Tea

As for Libation we selected ....

* 2003 Clover Hill Blanc de Blanc (Piers River, Tasmania)
* 2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir (Central Otago, New Zealand)

There you have it, reporting from Mecca, the 3 Hats #1 Restaurant in Sydney!
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Saturday, July 11, 2009

MY DINING JOURNAL

In case you are wondering how Dora & I fare on our 'eating opportunities' - coined by Russ many years ago - the quick answer is, we did really, really well. I have menus & photographs, not to mention copious notes on each course served, all of which I will properly document in the blog. Patience, friends and family, I will get there ... I owe you all this much!

RUTLAND MANOR

Finally, Dora & I were able to meet Beverley Manners - Grand Dame & Founder of Rutland Manor - affectionately known as 'Grandma' within the Labradoodle community worldwide. Beverley is indeed a legend in the breeding world. A quarter of a century of dedication in developing this unique breed has earned her an international fame. Rutland just shipped 8 puppies to all corners of the world and Helen, 'COO' at Rutland, was busy checking arrival status and receiving blissful thank you emails from families like us back in July 2008 when Kaya, barely 10-weeks old, arrived at our doorsteps. Labradoodles are wonderful pets; they are regal, affectionate, and super smart. We are of course extremely biased with our 4th daughter. We took a picture with Beverley and 3 gorgeous puppies ... I was holding a 17-week old with a unique 'tiramisu' coat, Dora with a 7-month red coat, plus a large standard in front of us who has a wonderful coffee coat, with gold stripes that are 'bleached' in the sun, like the trendy hair styles of the young. I was tempted, very tempted, to take one home!
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REGINA & PETER NG

Allow me to introduce the Ruler of Balwyn, a beautiful suburb near Melbourne, and his Consort ... our close friends & hosts, Regina & Peter Ng. Peter early retired from corporate life and became my trusted partner at RRA in the late 1990s. It took no time for us to become soulmates ever since. A career executive from Philips & Shell, Peter is the walking definition of someone 'who has done it all' across the full spectrum of commerce. With breadth & depth in business he was our guiding beacon & wise counsel at RRA. We now shared a close philosophy on how we should live the rest of our lives on retirement. It is sheer joy that 4 very good friends can spend quality time together, at their palace here. We visited Rutland Manor yesterday - Home of the Labradoodles -just look at the experienced hands of the newly minted Grandma & Grandpa as they held those 4-week old puppies!
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Sunday, July 05, 2009

THE MORNING AFTER

I had the most slumbering sleep last night, a full 8-hours non stop beleive it or not, which I have not been able to do since I started LCB. I cannot explain my sleep pattern, its probably a mix between excitement at the initial weeks, to anxiety at the last. I am in Roseville now staying with Julie & Russ, and Dora will arrive in a few hours to spend a week of culinary adventure. We have booked 4th Village in Mosman, Tetsuya here in Sydney, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and a few more in bewteen, speaking of indulgence. Today is the first day I wear neither my uniform nor my LCB name tag, yes, there is no doubt a bit of emptiness.

If you ask me how I feel 'the mornng after' I would offer the following. I have lived my dream but I am also awaken from this romantic idea that perhaps I can become a chef. Wrong ... Tang might be able to cook, but Tang can never be a chef. When I read the LCB brochure for the first time the idea of a 'Grand Diploma' sounds intriguing. I enrolled in both Cuisine & Patisserie so I can take a first hand look at what it involves. It really did not take 10-weeks for me to conclude that I do not have what it takes to earn the title of a chef. Passion and energy I am at over-drive but I lack talent, the definitive difference between a chef and a cook. I am the latter, at best.

Professor Edmund Ko, a fellow Council Member at the HKCAAVQ, introduced me to the term 'Fit for Purpose' which applies perfectly to my situation. While my young classmates all aspire to join the industry in one fashion or another, that is not my purpose. I wanted the LCB experience so I can enjoy cooking and my kitchen more. At Chez Tang I can, literally and figuratively, wear the toques of the Executive Chef, Chef de Cuisine, Sous Chef & Patissier all at once and that is what I should do. I plan a small tasting menu, I do mise en place, I match the wines, I set up the table, I put on a chef uniform, I play the relevant mood music .... I 'pretend' I am a chef .... and I languish in the 'wows & oohs & aahs' from my friends. Why do you think people call this 'entertaining at home'? It is precisely what it is, entertainment, which is miles apart from what transpired in my life this past 10-weeks. I am old enough to know who I am, and what I want but most importantly, I am now at peace with myself which explains why I slept like a baby last night.

Saturday, July 04, 2009

MY LAST PATISSERIE MORNING

I am in fact quite exhausted, packing & blogging until almost 2am, but I did not sleep much because I want to see this for one last time. First light was a bit different this morning, perhaps we are well into July, the advent of Winter here. The morning walk to school has become chilly compared to 12 weeks ago. The magic of the 'Patisserie Morning' is still there though, especially on Saturdays like today where there is less rush traffic.

So, this is it, the finale! I have done it ... whatever 'it' means. Yes, there is some nostalgia as I look across my balcony to the TAFE campus on the hill, where I left a few foot prints. No, I am not emotional because like many things in life, or even life itself, we anticipate the end right at the beginning. LCB is not my destination, it is the avenue for me to cater to my insatiable desire to learn about the wonders of the culinary arts. I am fortunate to have boarded this perfect vehicle in which 'to live my dreams'. It has been nothing but sheer bliss, and many rewards, throughout my short tenure. In under an hour the crescendo will hit the 'fortissimo of cheesecakes', our 30th & last Patisserie lesson.

When I pass those LCB gates later this afternoon as a 'matured student' it would be my last exit. Having lived his dreams it is time for this 'wannabe' to return to the realities of where he comes from. I shall never forget my Patisserie Mornings!

Friday, July 03, 2009

GENOISE SPONGE

The holiday mood was definitely on at demo this morning. Chef Michael was in top form, carrying on with great humor throughout the lesson. Look at the beautifully decorated cakes? The Chefs make everything look so simple until we get our hands wet, then all hell breaks loose. Just levelling these gateau is a major hurdle, many would fail their assessment on this technique alone. When it is time for 'LCB Morning Tea' ie when the demo products are ready for tasting the class suddenly became a party. We were off our seats milling around, enjoying the 5 different cakes presented, chatting, joking, hanging out which we have never done. It was a wonderfully relaxed moment, a genuine feeling of comaraderie. As greenhorns only 10-weeks ago this group has certainly come of age. The enhanced comfort level and the chemistry mix are obvious. This will form an even stronger link as the class graduates to Intermediate, without me. To reward the promotion the next class schedule will start at 1130am which means there will be no more waking up at 6am to make the 730am sign-in. When one gets to Superior the scheduling will be even better, further proof that there is no such thing as a classless society. For the very first time, I wish I am returning for Intermediate with these folks which of course is wishful thinking.
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METRO INN

This is the corridor outside of #121, my 'home-sweet-home' here at West Ryde. My room is my castle, a place that offers tranquility, privacy & security. It is at best a 3-star outfit but I absolutely adore it because it puts me in perspctive. For a long time I have been royally spoiled by the trappings of corporate life eg 5-star accomodation, Michelin dining, Business if not First Class seats etc ... ad nauseum. We all get used to them easily as we climb the seniority ladder, until one day an Economy seat is like a jail term without parole. This is where retirement can help us turn that corner, and become 'real' again. What is wrong with a tidy, airy, bright room with clean sheets & towels? When was the last time you used that neatly packaged bag of bath salt in a hotel, in fact when was the last time you used the bath, instead of the shower? 'Back to Basics', 'Repacking your Bag', 'How to Simplify Your Life', 'How to Live Simply' .... these are titles of books I read since retirement. I have discovered new meaning on how I should effectively downsize myself to fit my new lifestyle. I learned that if we feel like splurging every now and then, we should go right ahead. Why not, since we all worked super hard to get to where we are. The point is, do we have to live the 5-star life everyday, would that become boring quickly? Staying at Metro Inn the past 12-weeks has cleansed my head on this key question. I love the simplicity, efficiency & kindness of my home away from home. Tim the Manager, Randall his Assistant, Karen the Receptionist, Therese & Lucy at Housekeeping .... they will be missed, in fact I miss them already as I prepare this blog.
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VOTE OF THANKS

Speaking of being thankful, the following is my list of 'Thankyou' on Oscar Night :

* Dora's love & encouragement, who also sponsored my sojourn
* Billy Chen my dear friend for introducing me to kitchen operations 5 years ago
* Chef Chris who taught me my 1st dish : pan seared foie gras
* Chef Donovan for 'changing my outlook to life', not to mention his career recipe collection
* Family members who have been most supportive
* Friends around the world who rallied for me throughout
* Classmates from Cuisine & Patisserie, especially those who 'babysit' me
* LCB Chefs & Lecturers whose collective patience with me is exemplary
* Staff @ Metro Inn & their exceptional hospitality
* Badaoui family @ Bowden Cafe
* Kim family @ Meadowbank Laundry

And the Oscar goes to .... ALL OF YOU .... from the bottom of my heart, merci beaucoup!

SELF PORTRAIT

I am early, it is way before my 6am alarm but I am wide awake and ready to roll. Russ predicted that as I get closer to the end of school, I shall miss it so much I will strive for every minute, which is an astute & accurate observation. I started to pack last evening and this crazy thought came to mind, here it is.

This is a 21st century 'Self-Portrait' of the Impressionist variety. The 'artist', if you allow me a bit of license, is of neither Monet or Renoir fame. The 'location' is neither the Left or Right Bank of the Seine, but the toilet of a modest motel room in West Ryde NSW Australia. That said, what makes this piece priceless is the smile on the face of the artist, that unmistaken smile of 'A Man who has Lived his Dreams ....' I bet you cannot find this in any museum anywhere on our planet, not in a million years. You are looking at a 'wannabe' who, with a bit of luck, would soon be the recipient of 2 Le Cordon Bleu Certificates, in Basic Cuisine & Basic Patisserie. I am deeply humbled after 10 gruelling weeks with reality, taught by masters at close quarters. I am also extremely proud of what I have done at this juncture of my life, or to put it in another way, what I was able to sustain, mental & physical abilities permitting, at age 60.

I have been fortunate, I am lucky, I am gratified and lastly ... I am very, very thankful!
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Thursday, July 02, 2009

A TOUCHING EXAMPLE OF KINDNESS

There is quite a population of Koreans at LCB, apparently a name that generates a following in Korea, as it probably generates decent job opportunity in industry, too. Outside of English, the most spoken languages in the hallways are Korean & Putonghua. I have the pleasure of meeting a few young Korean classmates in both Patisserie (5) and Cuisine (8) .... amazing concentration. We always exchange views on food, in minute details as part of our heritage. Why not, we are in culinary school after all. One of my all time favorite Korean specialty is Bi-Bim-Bab which I referred to in a previous post. This is a staple rice dish one can get anywhere around the country ie a symphony of finely julienned vegetables - carrot, cucumber, black mushroom, pea sprouts - and scrambled eggs, minced beef, plus a generous helping of a spicy sauce that is sprinkled with white sesame, on a bed of rice. It can be served either piping hot, or cold Japanese 'Bento' style, which we see a lot at LCB during lunch break. On Monday one of my Cuisine classmates, Grace from Seoul, came up to me ... 'this is for you' ... I opened the box, voila, imagine the surprise! I was deeply touched by her thoughtfulness, and extremely grateful for the time she must have spent preparing it before class. This is a fine demonstration of kindness & care. I took it back to Metro Inn that evening, brewed a nice pot of green tea, turned off the TV, carefully studied the ingredients, noted the recipe, before I proceeded to eat. I took a long time, savoring every bite of this very special dinner.

Grace ... you made my day! It was the best meal I had in my room over the past 10-weeks. The Bi-Bim-Bab was perfectly made, and it reminded me of my fondness for Korean cooking. I am indebted to your friendship, what else is there to ask in life. Thankyou!
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LAST WEEK IN PATISSERIE

Today is the beginning of the 10th or final cycle in Patisserie, while Cuisine ended yesterday. We will learn to make 2 key products and their 'derivatives' in the pastry world (1) Genoise or Sponge Cakes (2) Cheesecakes - Baked & Chilled. The mood in the classroom is visibly relaxed as everyone looks forward to a 2-week break before returning for Intermediate. Chef Michael asked this morning ' ... except for Raymond, everybody will be back, right? ... ' It was a knock on the head to remind me that the end is near. Honestly I am still in a daze, how did the 10-weeks go so fast? It seems like last week when we were all nervous & anxious in Lesson #1 and now some of us are behaving like they have been doing this all their lives. Incredible! Our Lecturers should take the lion share of the credit. Quietly they managed to nudge the class into the pastry world. Chef Didier assured us the babysitting will stop in Intermedaite as ' ... you all should behave as though you are already in industry, where you are on your own, and no one will babysit you'. I am so relieved he is not talking to me, the retiree. I shall miss the young pastry chef-lings at my bench ie Raymond #2, Chris, Ben & Pao - shown with Chef Didier, the tall Belgian who was Executive Chef at a prominent Washington DC hotel before he joined LCB - and Chef Michael, our Principal Chef/Lecturer in Patisserie. I cannot wait for our last Lesson #30 ... Cheesecakes!
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Wednesday, July 01, 2009

I PASSED .....

It is official - I passed the 'Re-Sit' this morning and that, I certainly hope, I passed the Basic Patisserie Course. It was 8am when the 'less competent' were assembled in Kitchen #2 and it was not just us from Basic but fellow students from Intermediate & Superior as well, altogether 7 of us doing different 're-sit' exams. Mine was the now notorious Eclairs! Listening to Uncle Joe I tried to compartmentalize all the right moves (to repeat) as well as the wrong moves (to avoid) and it worked. My babies did not burn this time since I was almost glued to the oven, my creme had excellent consistency, even my fondant performed at 37C ie you can see the 'shine' on the Eclairs. We were supervised by Chefs whom we have never met, from the senior courses, who were very supportive knowing how nervous we all were. Everyone just kept our heads down, and no one spoke, it was weird compared to what we are used to. ' .... Raymond, you passed, but you must understand this passing grade is very far away from the industry standard we aim to set for LCB students'. In other words my Eclairs passed the asssessment but would they sell, would any customer buy them? Of course not, that is the difference. It was almost noon when I cleaned up my bench, and packed up my tool kit. I felt a lot lighter on my feet when I walked out of Kitchen #2 with my classmates. I passed!
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CHICKEN AGAIN?

Fricassee de Vollaille Vallee d'Auge is a joy to cook, a real pleasure as the orchestration of ingredients to yield flavors is masterly. It is a dish that many may know of, or have tasted, but 'cooking it properly' can be a challenge. It may look like pieces of chicken in a sauce but the creator of the recipe deserves recognition. Next to chicken are apples, applied in 3 forms; wedges & rings caramelized in butter as trivets ie 'bedding', apple cider to enrich the sauce, lastly Calvados ie apple brandy flambe when we sauteed the chicken pieces. What an articulate way to coordinate flavors! It is Week 10 and the class is really getting into the swing of things as our movements during cooking become less clumsy. For me preparing the sauces, the 'soul' of the dish, is my favorite. I love working with the basic steps of degrease, deglaze, skim, reduce, thicken, strain, season, reheat and like magic out comes the smooth, velvety, well seasoned sauce! The highlight of the practical session was pasing around an extra bottle of cider - meant for the sauce - during service. We were like mischievious school kids playing behind the teacher's back, it was delightful.
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POUSSIN EN COCOTTE A L'ESTRAGON

We did this on the same day as the Gnocchi Romaine. This classic Chicken with Tarragon dish is old-fashioned including the presentation ... those tarragon leaves are blanched, then dipped in olive oil to give that 'shine' on the top. It is quite eye-catching over a small, neatly trussed chicken the size of a Cornish hen. The two round jobs sitting at the back are not pears, they are Pommes William or William Potatoes. It is a elaborate process to cook them ie potatoes baked in rock salt, passed through a mouli to reach smooth texture, piped to pear shape, refrigerate to form, then Paner a l'Anglaise ie 3-step treatment of flour, egg wash & breadcrumbs, before deep frying to golden brown. If that is not laborious enough, a parsley stalk - beautiful green against the golden brown - is 'planted' to resemble the stalk of the pear. All very classic Cordon Bleu and fun stuff. I made a mistake here. I used a tall pan that prohibited the movement of the heat over the chicken inside the oven, hence its skin is not the desired color, despite frequent basting with butter. A minor oversight that has led to a major presenattion hiccup as the skin should match that of the potatoes. This is yet another example of the LCB regimen, which we have all learned and hopefully take it to heart down the road, especially for the young chefs-t0-be around me.
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