I am so sorry there is no photo attached with this blog as I left my camera in the hotel. We were introduced to Lung Kee in Taipei which, arguably, is the 'most traditional' Shanhainese meal I had yet, and that includes the many I visited in Shanghai. The tell-tale is in the sauces, if you would allow this amatuer to make a statement. Sugar and vinegar make the difference, especially in the brasied dishes. I may be Cantonese but my food upbringing during childhood years was influenced by Shanghainese cooking because the maternal side of my family, though Cantonese, grew up in Beijing & Shanghai, before moving to Hong Kong, hence our eating habits.
Located in an older Taipei neigborhood near Chung Hwa Lu, Taipei's answer to Nathan Road back in the 50s-60s, Lung Kee occupies a most unassuming two-story house in a back alley of Yen Ping Nan Lu, a stone throw from Sun Yat San Hall. The exact address is #1 Alley 101 Yen Ping Nan Lu, Taipei.
As for what to order, what can I say, eveything! Rule (1) be greedy, very greedy, starting with the 'appetizer cabinet' at the entrance. You will find an ample display of mouth-watering classics, notably the heavily roed 'yellow fish' beautifully braised in caramalized spring onions, served cold. Rule (2) be traditional ie order dishes that make Shanghainese food famous. They are not banquet fare like abalone and sharks fin, but dishes everyone makes and eats at home, without ceremony. They are the best!
Our generous hosts, indigenous Taiwanese and bona fide Taipei belongers now, showered us with more than a dozen classics. I will let you find out, in vitro, what we had ... all you have to do is to comb the 4-page menu, and follow your greed. Do not let Lung Kee slip away on your next visit. This old lady has been around, since 1952 ie 58 years ago, almost as old as I am. She survived for very good reasons, and she is an absolute must. One last thing, do expect 'grouchy matrons' but that said, no one seems to mind, smiles are all around still as the spread on the table more than makes up for bad service. Bon appetite!
This building on Stanley Street in Central has witnessed the history of at least 4 generations of Hong Kong belongers, since the early 1900s. My grandparents, parents, me and my kids have all had the privilege of association. Luk Yu is a household name and for years it is the equivalent of a '3-star Michelin' or 'Best in Hong Kong' as oldtimers would attest. Times have changed and her following is no longer as sacrosanct as it used to be. The grandparent generation was long gone, the parent generation no longer partake in her fares, our geneartion has far too many choices and the generation that follows us is simply not in possession of, among other things; the taste buds, the curiosity, the patience, the culinary depth and lastly the $ .... to appreciate what made Cantonese cooking the most refined among all Chinese cuisine. One would understand the description 'faded glory' when one walks into the restaurant these days. While it still occupies 3 whole storeys, the vibes of yester years, the humming of a market leader, the feel of the power lunch - Luk Yu could well challenge the Jackson Room of the Hong Kong Club in the 30' & 40's - are just not there anymore. In its place there is a hint of melancholy, it is particularly obvious for me, who grew up with Luk Yu. Loyalty is rewarded by privilege as tables are automatically reserved for regulars, we are talking about the multiple of a decade as 'Loyalty Units' here. Good luck Luk Yu, may you live as long as our beloved home town will live.
Dora and I had breakfast with my old RRA colleagues and dear friends Deborah & Reginia at Luk Yu this morning. I was so touched when they handed me a scarf and a vest, which they hand-knitted jointly, for my upcoming birthday. Our friendship is as strong as Luk Yu, if not stronger. We let ourselves out of the diet cages and splurged. For me it means Pork Liver Siao Mai ..... this is not served at most restaurants, in part because of the conspiracy theory that liver, especially from swine, is bad for one's health. I am not a believer, as you must have surmised. In addition we ordered half a dozen more 'breakfast classics' which, by the way, are identical to the 'lunch, afternoon tea, and even late night supper classics' if you ask any bona fide yum-cha aficionado in Hong Kong. Where is the creativity? Nowhere, is the answer. We Cantonese are simple souls and we eat the same dim-sums when the HSI was 8000, and I am sure we will still be eating the same dim-sums at every meal, except dinner, when the HSI hits 80,000! 
Come to think of it Taiwan's food culture already has a strong impact on ours. The photo shows yet another addition to the intensely competitive special drinks market, with a catchy but funny name, 'Come Buy'. Some years ago the 'Pearl Milk Tea', a unique Taiwanese creation has built a following in Hong Kong. Whoever thought of adding large sago 'pearls' to give a chewy texture to regular English breakfast tea, with milk, and served with crushed ice, should be given a culinary medal. What follows are copy cats, ad nauseum, the ultimate form of flattery. Go to Mongkok and count how many such outlets there are on on each block. In a recent news documentary it was reported a 400 sq ft retail outlet, standing room only, in prime Mongkok commands HK$100,000 per month these days. A young entrepreneur was interviewed and I quote ' ... we have to sell 6000+ per month just to pay rent ....' and he was talking about one shop, his own! These are staggering consumption statistics if we total sales from all such outlets around town. If this is not making an impact on our food (or at least drinks) culture, what is? BTW if you insist on proof at the food front, how about Din Tai Fung Dumplings, which is a global brand now. I took my LCB classmates for dinner in their Sydney branch and I was very impressed by their standards and quality service which would make their 'lao dian' in Taipei extremely proud. If you are still not convinced what about the many flavored Taiwanese style sausages, served as appetizers and in sandwiches? 
This is the bar of a trendy restaurant across the street from the Far East Shangri-la in Taipei. The best description is probably 'a creative way to give Taipei (not necessarily Taiwanese per se) fare its modern interpretation'. What amazes me is how ambience, setting and style have won places in Taipei dining which, for years, has been dominated by 'Small Eats' and traditional presentations of provincial Chinese cooking, at their best, I should add. I am still a genuine fan, and an avid explorer of the 'Small Eats' universe whenever I get to visit this city, which I happen to love. To me they are quintessential Taipei, something my staunch KMT uncles, aunties and cousins taught me back in the late '50s to early '60s when Hong Kong residents did not get visas easily, for fear of espionage. I will never forget those large red banners that spanned across the entire width of Chung Shan Bei Lu ..... 'spies who turn themselves in will not be prosecuted ....' How times have changed! 
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