LUK YU

This building on Stanley Street in Central has witnessed the history of at least 4 generations of Hong Kong belongers, since the early 1900s. My grandparents, parents, me and my kids have all had the privilege of association. Luk Yu is a household name and for years it is the equivalent of a '3-star Michelin' or 'Best in Hong Kong' as oldtimers would attest. Times have changed and her following is no longer as sacrosanct as it used to be. The grandparent generation was long gone, the parent generation no longer partake in her fares, our geneartion has far too many choices and the generation that follows us is simply not in possession of, among other things; the taste buds, the curiosity, the patience, the culinary depth and lastly the $ .... to appreciate what made Cantonese cooking the most refined among all Chinese cuisine. One would understand the description 'faded glory' when one walks into the restaurant these days. While it still occupies 3 whole storeys, the vibes of yester years, the humming of a market leader, the feel of the power lunch - Luk Yu could well challenge the Jackson Room of the Hong Kong Club in the 30' & 40's - are just not there anymore. In its place there is a hint of melancholy, it is particularly obvious for me, who grew up with Luk Yu. Loyalty is rewarded by privilege as tables are automatically reserved for regulars, we are talking about the multiple of a decade as 'Loyalty Units' here. Good luck Luk Yu, may you live as long as our beloved home town will live.


Dora and I had breakfast with my old RRA colleagues and dear friends Deborah & Reginia at Luk Yu this morning. I was so touched when they handed me a scarf and a vest, which they hand-knitted jointly, for my upcoming birthday. Our friendship is as strong as Luk Yu, if not stronger. We let ourselves out of the diet cages and splurged. For me it means Pork Liver Siao Mai ..... this is not served at most restaurants, in part because of the conspiracy theory that liver, especially from swine, is bad for one's health. I am not a believer, as you must have surmised. In addition we ordered half a dozen more 'breakfast classics' which, by the way, are identical to the 'lunch, afternoon tea, and even late night supper classics' if you ask any bona fide yum-cha aficionado in Hong Kong. Where is the creativity? Nowhere, is the answer. We Cantonese are simple souls and we eat the same dim-sums when the HSI was 8000, and I am sure we will still be eating the same dim-sums at every meal, except dinner, when the HSI hits 80,000!