CHEF GIOVANNI GREGGIO

Here he is, in his full glory, the legendary Chef Giovanni who made a name for Nicholini at the Conrad. Cooking is his life, 54 years of it to be exact, until his retirement. He was recently persuaded to return to head Gradini. Chef Giovanni is energetic, knowledgeable, humorous, engaging but above all there is this unmistaken 'old school' air about him that I find attractive. He was busy working the restaurant throughout the evening ... shaving seasonal white truffles, supervising deboning, checking plate temperature, bantering with regulars and charming first timers ... things beyond the pass that every chef should do but only a fraction of that community could, or even want to.

This picture with my two heroes will one day make history. Chef Giovanni in the middle, flanked by Chef Christoph Suter (HKJC) who was a close ally and colleague from their Conrad days, and yours truly, a blissful wannabe who just had a plateful of super pastas and a Bistecca alla Florentina.

Life cannot come any better ... do visit Gradini soon while he is still at the helm.

http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-wine/article/1622998/giovanni-greggio-comes-out-retirement-run-gradini-central

GRADINI @ POTTINGER

We heard about the return of Chef Giovanni Greggio, of Nicholini fame, who came out of retirement to run Gradini Ristorante Italiano at the neatly appointed boutique hotel on Stanley Street ... The Pottinger ... but it was not until last night were we able to visit the Maestro.

It was an excellent dinner, one that brought back the lost charm of rustic Italian fare that seems to have wavered in the fiercely competitive 'one-upsmanship' world of culinary creativity. The two best entries for the evening were : Pasta 3-Ways and the Chef's rendition of Bistecca alla Florentina. On one plate we had Tuscany Sausage Rigatoni, Angel Hair Vongole, Lobster Fettuccine ... a most rewarding symphony of tastes and textures. The beautifully rare short loin T-bone steak was next, served with 4-sauces. It was just beyond words, an instant reminder of the real thing, in the Central Market in Florence. We also had Lamb Rack and a Line Caught Sea Bass from Italy baked in salt but they did not come anywhere close. I will definitely go back, for the Pastas, and the Bistecca ... again, and again.

GRADINI
21 Stanley Street or 74 Queen's Road Central : 2308 3088
www.thepottinger.com