WAGYU TAKUMI

It is blatantly decadent but like card carrying disciples of Thortsein Veblen's doctrine of 'Conspicuous Consumption' we were caught in the act, again. Within days after SANKA we were sitting in front of Head Chef Konishi Mitsuru at WAGYU TAKUMI, a direct competitor to the former, also recently opened under the Ginsai Group in Wanchai.

They may come with more or less the same pedigree from Tokyo, and pitching at more or less the same theme, but what we encountered could not be more different. Sanka is very traditional, a carbon copy of her parent per our friends who dined at the Ukai-Tei in Tokyo. Takumi, however, is deliciously French biased notably because of Chef Konishi's wide exposure to Michelin establishments in both Paris & Tokyo, including L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Tokyo.

While I have no doubt they will generate their own followings, my personal preference is Takumi as it offers out-of-the-box thinking with the same ingredients, which are right at the top end for both venues.  There are only 12 seats in an L-shape and diners can watch the impressively staged, cool, and rhythmic delivery of creative French-Japanese contemporary cuisine.  Needless to say the price tag is right up there too at $2,380 per head but for a 9-course extravaganza it is Value-for-Money in my book.

* Marinated Scallops & Caviar with Sudachi Jelly
* French Chanterelle & Deep Fried Artichoke with Fresh Almonds
* Hokkaido Sea Urchin, King Crab in a Cold Salsify Soup
* Abalone with Shimanto Seaweed & Wheat Risotto
* Teppayaki Lobster with Fennel & Fresh Tomato Sauce
* Roast Bresse Chicken Breast with Tempura Mushroom
* Duo of Grilled Kagoshima Tenderloin & Teppanyaki Oumi Flank Steak
* Sweet Corn Tempura in Udon
* Peach Soup, Compote Jelly & Earl Gray Ice Cream

I shall return!

WAGYU TAKUMI : www.ginsai.com.hk
GF The Oakhill 16 Wood Road, Wanchai @ 2574 - 1299

'YAT CHAU HON'

I am no fan of Next Magazine as I am skeptical of the sensational reporting that is the centerpiece to boost weekly sales.  I am amazed how often some of this 'stuff' end up in dinner conversations, where the power-that-be in town actually quote them as though they are 'reliable information'.  Speaking of making heads turn!

That said, for many years Next Magazine has arrived religiously at our door because other family members (who will remain nameless) are ardent followers of the food and gossip pages.  Ces't la vie!  A man of weak will, and even weaker principles in this instance, I often pick up the seemingly more 'respectable' and less gossipy section and read the columns.

Lo and behold ... while they are always center left, of late I can sense the meeting of minds between these columns and public sentiments. Here is the latest of Donald Tsang's dirty laundry.  I do not know who Mark Simon is, but do read 'Serving God & Communist' ... a grammatically incorrect headline but who cares, the following paragraph is interesting, as the plot thickens.

" ... You cannot separate the Chief Executive from his Catholic faith.  Mr. Tsang's business with the Pope was not the business of Hong Kong, but rather a journey to heal an unsettled spiritual divide that he believes he has with our Church, based on his years as Chief Executive ... "

SANKA TEPPANYAKI

We were invited to the latest competitor in the up-market teppanyaki battlefield in Central last weekend, SANKA.  It was a thoroughly delicious evening in more ways than one, albeit a tad pricey. Waving the Value-for-Money banner these days it is my mission to identify eateries worthy of the description.

Apparently SANKA is the Hong Kong branch of a top Tokyo favorite, opened less than 2 months ago with all the fanfare.  Right up there in the cholesterol chain, Dora and I are squeamish with words like marbled steaks and hairy crab these days. We were in for a pleasant surprise ... the Kuroge Wagyu served was beautiful, just right, unlike places where your lips and lower chin continue to feel the fat from the steaks hours after a meal.    

The Special Menu, at $2,180 per head, is comprised of the following :

* Marinated Salmon with caviar
* Sauted Foie Gras with Roasted Fresh Figs
* Matsusake Mushroom Consomme
* Giant Abalone Steamed in Salt Crust with Hokkaido Scallops
* Premium Kuroge Wagyu Steak
* Minced Garlic Fried Rice
* Dessert Trio

If you wish to spend less there are 2 other choices : a seafood course for $1,680 and a less damaging version of the above at $1,450 but adding libation to the tab we are talking about a minimum of $2,000 per head.  It was faultless quality fare across the menu, presented by Sous Chef Toru Takano with his own razzle-dazzle, and excellent service. We were in a private room and I noticed a junior chef and a floor staff at the ready by the door, at our beckon call, throughout the dinner ... testimony to professional pride and discipline, Nippon style.        

There were a few young dating folks outside at the tastefully and opulently decorated 'bar'. I kept reminding my bride of 32 years that, obviously, Value-for Money has taken on new meanings since our courting days.

SANKA : 1F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central @ (852) 3460 2285

BRAND NEW WORD

I just received this from a college classmate, we met at 18, as Freshmen at Tufts.

EXHAUSTIPATED

Brilliantly translated as " ... too tired to give a shit ... "

This genius addition to my vocabulary paints an almost perfect picture of my current mindset, as I age.  

TKT PORCHETTA

Borrowing the idea from the Porchetta at Meat & Bread as shown on the left I prepared a similar but different sandwich at TKT, using practically the same recipe.

* well toasted Ciabatta, both sides, on a grill for presentation effect
* apple sauce flavored pesto spread on one side
* mustard mayo on the other

On to the roast pork ... mixing the shredded lean meat, the slightly fatty belly layer and of course the piece-de-resistance the cracklings ... make sure the mix is well seasoned, adding to it whole baby capers, julienne of pickled red onions including a sprinkle of the red wine vinegar to keep the pork moist, add alfafa or arugula, and before closing the sandwich, ample cracked black pepper or in my case, dried pepper flakes.

Served with an iced cold Virgin Mojito this recipe will make you an instant hero as a home cook!  

MEAT & BREAD

To me the most memorable meal from our 2-week sojourn, between Edmonton & Vancouver, was the super sandwiches we had at Meat & Bread, in the Gas Town District of Vancouver. It was an absolute delight, a simple culinary asterisk that impressed me to the hilt. To continue my quest in Food Anthropology my taste buds have shifted more and more to street foods.  Unassuming sandwich joints are western cuisine's answers to our roast meats on rice or wanton noodles outlets and this one, introduced to us by a young CX pilot family friend, is very special.

The menu, shown on the right, is limited but almost every item is 'to the point'.  The house sandwiches on offer, all under C$10, are as follows and we ordered one of each.

*  Porchetta with Cracklings
*  Meat Ball Sambal with Grana Padano
*  Terriyaki Beef with Sambal Aioli
*  Classic Ham in Melted Cheese

There is only a single long dining table with free seating, and tap water is free, none of this annoying practice of bottled water at nonsense prices. Service is excellent, the solo front-of-house staff will pack what you cannot finish, so beautifully you can send it to someone as a gift. Though moving efficiently, there is always a queue as we were told so avoid the busy hours which, unfortunately, means most of the day.

MEAT & BREAD : www.meatandbread.com  370 Cambie Street @ Victory Square, Vancouver BC