I watched the news this morning, in Japanese as usual, and heard the UN - UNESCO decision to list Washoku, the traditional cuisine of Japan as one of the World's Priceless Cultural Heritage. This is, without any doubt, a well deserved award and the Nation is elated from the news report. To this small minion from Hong Kong, this cannot come at a more timely juncture.
I subsequently retrieved this from an ABC News report : ' ... Washoku embraces seasonal ingredients, a unique taste, time consuming preparation and a style of eating steeped in centuries of tradition. At its heart is Umami, recognized as the fundamental taste of sweet, sour, salted and bitter ...' For more you can Google Japan food world heritage for this well written report.
It went on to say that not unlike other cultures, home cooking or 'the taste of Mom's' is linked to family relations, known as 'ofukuro no aji' to the Japanese.
As an aside Sensei has, in no small ways, played her part in this honor having taught visitors from 40+ foreign countries the art of home cooking, literally at her home kitchen. I am blessed to be part of this.
Well done, Japan!
Thursday, December 05, 2013
Tuesday, December 03, 2013
BUDGET DIET TOKYO STYLE - I DID IT
Just did some quick math on my food expenses ... Y20,500 or HK$1,574 for the past 16 days which amounts to Y1,279 or almost exactly HK$100 per day. The costliest meals were at Savoy for the pizza for Y2,200 and Yakitori at Shinjuku for Y2,900 ... not bad, not bad at all, and I am so proud.
The key is ... I enjoyed all my meals, fresh & healthy, I also had huge fun exploring, trying out old favorites, as well as engaging the world of the unknown. To top it all, I lost weight in the process because oil and fat are few and far in between. I cheated a little though, sampling food prepared in class. A delicious 16 days!
Her Royal Highness arrives this evening, I guess the splurging begins tomorrow?
The key is ... I enjoyed all my meals, fresh & healthy, I also had huge fun exploring, trying out old favorites, as well as engaging the world of the unknown. To top it all, I lost weight in the process because oil and fat are few and far in between. I cheated a little though, sampling food prepared in class. A delicious 16 days!
Her Royal Highness arrives this evening, I guess the splurging begins tomorrow?
ZUZUTTO?
' ... The key to enjoy Ramen is sound. One should slurp the noodles, creating the distinct noise the Japanese describe as Zuzutto, which signifies maximum enjoyment of the Ramen, because it is created by simultaneously consuming the noodles and the soup, which allows the complexity of the flavors to spread throughout the mouth, eventually leading to the ultimate experience of Nodogoshi ... the silky sensation or food slipping through one's throat. But do be careful with the hot soup ...' There you have it, the Karma Sutra of Ramen Slurping.
Do you know? '... the history of Ramen dates back to 1665 when Mitsukuni Mito, a Vice Shogun (did not know this title existed - thought a Shogun reigns supreme - ever heard of a Vice Emperor) in the Edo era treated a Confucian Chinese scholar to Udon, who reciprocated with a bowl of Chinese noodles in soup ...' He was my man, I am no fan of Udon, and if you like Trivial Pursuit, this one has your name on it.
Ipputo has 4 shops in Hong Kong (Central - CWB - TST - Kowloon Bay) so check them out.
WHAT A SOJOURN !!!
Look at Sensei, in her regal pose, with the class notes and recipes she meticulously prepared for our encounter. She has taught me much more than just Japanese cooking, but Japan as a nation, and what it means to be Japanese. In my quest as a Food Anthropologist, this is exactly what I look for. Between Sensei's attentive coaching in class, daily hands-on exposure to a wide spectrum of local fares, and of course my insatiable street foods adventures I have, at least on the surface, acquired a basic understanding of the vast food culture here. With a bit of courage I will start serving Japanese dishes back at TKT.
Marie, you have changed my life in the world of cooking, I shall miss you.
Domo Arigato Gozaimasu!
Monday, December 02, 2013
KAI-SEKI DAY
* Mukouzuke : top quality Shashimi, we used squid
* Nimono-Wan : clear soup with simmered fish puree wrapped in pumpkin dough
* Yaki-Mono : always grilled seefood garnish with seasonal flowers like Kiku
* Azuke-Bachi : barised octopus with Satoimo (taro) and Shungiku (Kiku stalk)
* Hassun : a small portion of a dish
Some Kai-seki restaurants serve a small bite of plain white rice, with Miso soup to close but according to the rules this should come right after the 1st course, the Mukouzuke.
Sensei used Oyster Rice as the Hassun item. The Japanese language has words that describe something without exactly saying what it means, this is an example. Kaki-Don is one hell of a mean recipe, one that I am sure will keep appearing on TKT's menu.
KIKU & SHUNGIKU
Taking advantage of the season my favorite is Shungiku, a bowl of Soba with chrysanthemum deep fried Tempura style, for Y350 or HK$27. It is labeled as 'Ninki' or loosely translated 'best selling house special' because it is fresh, aromatic, and flavorful with great texture, no wonder everyone orders it.
KICHITORA @ SHIBUYA
YAKITORI @ SHINJUKU
FOOD FESTIVALS
Sunday, December 01, 2013
'STAND UP MEAL'
Customers : want quick fix, no time to sit, do not want to sit, eating alone, do not want to pay for space, prefer self service, food quality at reasonable and stable prices above all, nothing else matters.
Restaurants : do not want to spend $ on rent, do not want to hire service staff, self service across the board, costs mostly on ingredients, fast turnover, assembly line operations, customers just another widget.
These Stand-Only places, literally translated as 'Stand-Eat', offer the perfect marriage. The Soba joint on the left is a stone-throw from my hotel, and where I go for breakfast if I am hungry. The Sushi joint is a bit further down the road, they both know me now. Prices are 30-35% below the competition in the neighborhood and business traffic, including and especially Soba breakfasts, is brisk from what I can see. Why not? If all one looks for is honest-to-goodness comfort food to fill the stomach in between meetings or errands. It certainly beats trashy fast food and I am sure at time it even beats sitting down to eat. This is so characteristic of city life, and so charmingly convincing in Tokyo.
Did you notice the billboard above Chiyoda Sushi that advertises an international sushi school? My next stop, perhaps?
CHIYODA LINE
Akasaka is a yuppie community with nice modern apartments along the tree lined streets. Omote-sando & Meiji-jingumae stations, together with 2 main avenues Aoyama-dori & Meiji-dori, basically define this huge shopping haven known as 'Harajuku' in inverted comas, even on the Tokyo Metro maps.
I do not like the main thoroughfare where mass humanity and name brands reign, they bore me to death. This is how I became 'shopaphobic' in my family of 3 women who are card carrying 'shopaholics'. At Omote-sando I always prefer this small avenue, shown here with a statue at the entrance where one finds sanity, not to mention tasty, up-market and exclusive (definitely not cheaper) brands. I can deal with that and not the vulgairty on the left. Who needs it, really?
BREAKFAST RAMEN @ TSUKIJI
Literally a Mom & Pop shop, they served a mean bowl of Ramen, one that certainly woke me up this morning. First of all, it was the super tasty soup, then the noodles, but what brought tears was that egg, standing tall against 4 (not the usual 3) pieces of slim cut pork belly. Sensei calls this 'Ramen Tamago' which is a special recipe to prepare eggs for noodles. Super delicious, adding so much to the bowl overall. Mama-san looks after front-of-house, directing the traffic and counts every Yen, while Papa-san plays chef, deeply entrenched in preparing every bowl with precision. Like Dora, he frowns when he is focused and one would think something went wrong that makes him unhappy.
Y600 or HK$46 .. it is such a hefty bowl I did not bother with lunch, bought 2 pears in season off a hawker instead. Look at the picture, make a mental note, and do not mix them up ... remember to go with the Under-Dog, he is better!
Ramen-Tamago : boil the eggs x 3 minutes, peel shells gently - marinate in a mixture of soya sauce, sesame oil, minced garlic & ginger - dilute with a bit of water but not too much - make sure all the eggs are submerged - keep in the fridge for 4 days to 1 week before serving. I should charge you, how would you like to pay for this star recipe?
'ITS A BEAUTIFUL MORNING'
Today is Sunday, and it is a 'Beautiful Morning'. My plan is to start with a bowl of weekend breakfast Ramen, and then explore the other key Tokyo Metro line, the Chiyoda Line.
I stepped out of the hotel shortly before 8am and received this greeting, there was literally nobody, no nothing in fact on a totally empty street. I then took the train to Yoyogi-uehara Station to the west, where the Chiyoda Line starts and look at the morning traffic into the city. What would you rather have?
LET US QUEUE
The line on the left is for Ramen at the front of the outer-market in Tsukiji with say, 40-50 customers. The line on the right is for Garrett's popcorn at Omote-sando with at least 100+ around the block. We are talking about Popcorn, you hear?
Nike also has a huge line, selling a trendy wrist band or something like that and the queue, near Harajuku, must be at least 300+ youngsters, and counting. Unbelievable!
MTR CHALLENGE
This is a sign on the Chiyoda Line which leads to a 'Women Only' carriage, between the hours of 710am (!!!) - which must be a decision based on comprehensive research - to 930am every morning of the 5-day working week. Given the infrequent but still annoying sexual harassment or even assault incidents on MTR trains I wonder if this is doable in Hong Kong. Are we 'too proud' to copy what others do well around the region, sitting on our soon-to-collapse perch as ... Asia's World City ... a term that makes me cringe, every time. It is such a major PR disaster, whoever created it should be really ashamed.
Saturday, November 30, 2013
TABI
Remember way, way back when the Ninja first hit the screens? These super folks, covered in black from head to toes, were giving their Chinese kung-fu counterparts a run for their money. I bet you never quite look at their shoes, right, even if you did you would not know what they are. I have the answer for you, it is the Tabi ... I own a pair, and I am now an unofficial member of the outdoors labor community.
I never thought I would buy anymore clothing but when I see these, I wanted them. I was in Asakusa and noticed Tabis on the 'rickshaw pullers' as they cruise around, soliciting tourist business, looking very comfortable. Surprisingly, the structure to accommodate the toes, with the big toe in a separate compartment, actually gives a better grip when one walks. The buckles on the side can fit around one's ankle, like the leggings WW1 soldiers used to wear. The tightness contributes to the ease of walking so, all in all, an excellent design that can outbid Timberland any day. I started wearing them and almost instantly became attached to them. Yes, I get funny looks around Ginza but who cares.
The damage is Y3900 or HK$300 ... they come in black, dark blue and brown.
I never thought I would buy anymore clothing but when I see these, I wanted them. I was in Asakusa and noticed Tabis on the 'rickshaw pullers' as they cruise around, soliciting tourist business, looking very comfortable. Surprisingly, the structure to accommodate the toes, with the big toe in a separate compartment, actually gives a better grip when one walks. The buckles on the side can fit around one's ankle, like the leggings WW1 soldiers used to wear. The tightness contributes to the ease of walking so, all in all, an excellent design that can outbid Timberland any day. I started wearing them and almost instantly became attached to them. Yes, I get funny looks around Ginza but who cares.
The damage is Y3900 or HK$300 ... they come in black, dark blue and brown.
KAPPABASHI
Being here for 2-weeks and with one more to go I now realize that not unlike her Asian neighbors, Japan is inhabited by one hell of a foodie population. So much is driven by eating and drinking one is totally immersed. A lion share of business and personal entertainment also revolves around food. I am glued to food programs on TV every evening just like when I am at home. My Japanese is non-existent. Naively I thought I know how to order Sushi until I sat in front of a Sushi Chef here, who had no clue what I said so he asked me to pick from the pictures instead ... speaking of losing face. Cooking is a universal dialect, I sort of 'know' what is being said as I watch chefs and amateurs cook.
With that as a backdrop the birth of Kappabashi is only a natural happening. Whether you cook or not, I guarantee it is a fascinating 2-hour walk, up and down the 4-5 blocks of endless parade of anything to do with cooking and the kitchen, I mean anything and everything, almost literally. This is like 1000 times bigger than William Sonoma! Japanese ingenuity is shown time and again in gadgets you would not dream of, and God, do they love gadgets.
Go on a week day when everyone is open, some close on weekends and the mood is not the same.
SAVOY PIZZA
Now for the details. They open 7-days a week but there are only 2 types of pizzas daily, the best one is the multiple cheese which, unfortunately was not on today and that left me no choice but to return.
We found foreign restaurants, generally, are of high standards in Tokyo. This statement has no research back-up, it is rather a gut feel based on what we had in various countries. The national trait of being particular, and being attentive to details might be the first reason why food, more importantly tastes, can be duplicated so well here. Savoy is perfect testimony that 'best ingredients cooked in the simplest way' will always win.
Do not miss this, you will love it, I did and will return for more. I can taste it right now.
SAVOY PIZZA : 3-3-13 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0045 ... 03-3451-6699
JAPANESE BREAD
* Krimu-Pan : 'Krimu' is cream and 'Pan' is bread, in this case stuffed with patisserie creme
* Kare-Pan : 'Kare' is curry, like curry puffs at home, except these are deep fried with Panko
To be honest, I fear bread making, not being a strong suite of mine, may be further down the priority list.
Friday, November 29, 2013
KYUSHU DAY
Day 10 - the focus is on Kyushu with towns like Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Oita and Kagoshima. After 2-weeks I am getting a good overview on the rudiments of how food is prepared in Japanese homes. My camera copped out on me and I could not focus hence no accompanying pictures. Apologies!
Apparently fried foods of any persuasion are signature Kyushu favorites. Words like Nanban or Tempura have Portuguese origins when their ships reached Japanese shores.
* Chicken Nanban : fried chicken
* Sakana no Nanban-Duke : marinated fresh water smelts, deep fried
* Game-Ni : root veggies cooked with chicken
* Karashi Renkon : lotus roots stuffed with mustard filling
* Kashiwa-Meshi : chicken & veggie cooked in rice
* Hiya-Jiru : cold Miso soup
The last one is the one that caught my eye, it is different. Start with grilling a few pieces of horse-mackerel with Miso and sesame powder, add Dashi soup stock, mix and refrigerate. For garnish add thinly sliced cucumber, chiffonade of Shiso, and tofu pieces, again refrigerate. Serve the soup cold, with cold rice. It is a summer recipe, like a western cold soup with a Nippon twist.
Apparently fried foods of any persuasion are signature Kyushu favorites. Words like Nanban or Tempura have Portuguese origins when their ships reached Japanese shores.
* Chicken Nanban : fried chicken
* Sakana no Nanban-Duke : marinated fresh water smelts, deep fried
* Game-Ni : root veggies cooked with chicken
* Karashi Renkon : lotus roots stuffed with mustard filling
* Kashiwa-Meshi : chicken & veggie cooked in rice
* Hiya-Jiru : cold Miso soup
The last one is the one that caught my eye, it is different. Start with grilling a few pieces of horse-mackerel with Miso and sesame powder, add Dashi soup stock, mix and refrigerate. For garnish add thinly sliced cucumber, chiffonade of Shiso, and tofu pieces, again refrigerate. Serve the soup cold, with cold rice. It is a summer recipe, like a western cold soup with a Nippon twist.
KANSAI & SHIKOKU DAY
Needless to say one has to start with a piece of Sashimi quality Bonito. Apply salt skin side to absorb moisture, the sear both sides of the fish directly over an open flame until slightly cooked. Sensei used a tissue soaked in ice water to wipe both sides 'to stop the cooking', once done, cut into thick pieces. Then comes the 'wow' factors ... the dipping sauce and the garnish, a magic all-purpose combination that can be used in other recipes, for example, Beef Tataki.
Sauce : 4 table spoons of soya sauce - 4 table spoons of rice vinegar - 1 table spoon of sugar - 1 table spoon of lemon juice - 1/2 table spoon of sesame oil - 1 clove of garlic, grated ... let the sauce sit for at least an hour to soften the impact of the garlic
Garnish : 2 spring onions, chopped - 1 Myoga or Japanese ginger, chopped - 1 ginger, chopped - 4 to 5 Shiso or Orba leaves in chiffonade ... no oil, no vinegar, keep dry to maximize flavor
To plate spread the garnish generously, dip the Bonito in the sauce, and watch Heaven opens up!
The other Kansai specials on the menu were :
* Udon Noodles : the Kagawa method is dominant
* Okonomiyaki : a party dish, meaning 'favorites' or loosely 'anything you like'
* Miso Denggaku : grilled veggies in sweet Miso sauce
* Shijimi-jiru : soup with Basket Clams
Thursday, November 28, 2013
MARKET DAY
The cardinal rules, ones I adhere to at home, are essentially the same. You identify a vendor you have good experience with, you keep going back, you raise the game to a personal level, you give feedback on the good, the bad and the ugly, you ask for the best price, you do not nickel and dime to death, lastly you need to show you are a loyal customer first, and his loyalty will follow soon after. It works, at least for me it does in Wanchai, in Apleichau and even at the Parkview Park & Shop. Sensie did all of the above, she rules both the 'inner' and 'outer' markets, a darling to many vendors.
Knowing Apita in Taikooshing has the best imported Japanese groceries is one thing, testing brands with Sensei's seal or approval is the purpose of our market day. I will not bore you with details suffice to say that I now have quite an opening inventory of dried goods across the board, ones I was taught to use.
We bought a large chunk of Kaysuo (Bonito) from one of Sensei's sources for the Katsuo no Tataki dish. Check out the fresh Hokkaido crabs on display, even at Y10-25,000 or HK$750-1500 a piece they are still value-for-money. This whole scene brings our inner most smiles, it is just wonderful.
The saddest thing is ... Tsukiji now faces the last days of her existence since the end of WWII. Moving her to another location means the end of a way of life, end of a chapter in history, and end of an entire generation, if not two, who grew up with the unique subculture. I have made a mental note to keep coming back, before she rides into the sunset which is a painful thought, even now.
Yes, we cooked afterwards, menu to follow.
HAN-BAGU
I love these English sounding Japanese words. Would you have guessed, especially it is pronounced with an accent? I doubt it.
Meat : 200gm ground meat (we used pork but it can be mixed) - 1 egg - 1 onion finely diced - 1/2 cup of Panko or Japanese bread crumbs - 2 table spoons of milk - 1 table spoon of ketchup - 1 table spoon of Worcestershire sauce - 50cc Sake = mix well into shape
All Purpose Sauce : 5-10cm of Daikon (as you like) grated - 1 leek or onion sliced - 2 table spoons of Sake - 2 table spoons of Mirin - 4 table spoons of soya sauce = can put on tuna, steak, chicken etc make it thicker by adding more ketchup & Worcestershire
Grill both sides of the Han-bagu until brown, pour in the Sake, cook with lid on for 5 minutes. Remove the meat, put sesame seed oil into the same pan to saute the leek or onion. Warm the sauce mixture until hot, then pour on the Han-bagu. By the way, it is served with rice, not chips.
Meat : 200gm ground meat (we used pork but it can be mixed) - 1 egg - 1 onion finely diced - 1/2 cup of Panko or Japanese bread crumbs - 2 table spoons of milk - 1 table spoon of ketchup - 1 table spoon of Worcestershire sauce - 50cc Sake = mix well into shape
All Purpose Sauce : 5-10cm of Daikon (as you like) grated - 1 leek or onion sliced - 2 table spoons of Sake - 2 table spoons of Mirin - 4 table spoons of soya sauce = can put on tuna, steak, chicken etc make it thicker by adding more ketchup & Worcestershire
Grill both sides of the Han-bagu until brown, pour in the Sake, cook with lid on for 5 minutes. Remove the meat, put sesame seed oil into the same pan to saute the leek or onion. Warm the sauce mixture until hot, then pour on the Han-bagu. By the way, it is served with rice, not chips.
TAMAGO-YAKI
* 3 eggs & 1 table spoon of sugar (more if you have a sweet tooth)
* 1 tea spoon of soya sauce & a pinch pf salt to tip the balance
* 80cc of Dashi the 'mother soup base' of Konbu & Bonito flakes
Combine the ingredients, spread 1/4 of the mixture in a Tamago-yaki pan over medium heat. Learn to manage the mixture which is on the watery side. Cook until half done then roll the egg from top to bottom of a slanted pan. Move this finished part to one end, fill with another 1/4 of the mixture and repeat the process. Do this back and forth, fold and refold until the eggs are cooked, forming a 'rectangular box'.
WEIGHT WATCH DINNER
I lost weight since 10 days ago. My diet regimen : breakfast is 2 tangerines in season + a carton of full cream milk; lunch is my main meal, Sensei and I feast on the elaborate tasting menu, and dinner has been 'accidental' between food court salads, a bowl of Ramen, a few pieces of Kara-age, or just a quiet bite while I blog, with the NHK news channel on as backdrop, in Japanese, of course. Did you know today is the birthday of Caroline Kennedy, the new Ambassador to Japan?
What you see is a shredded cabbage salad, the kind you can have as much as you want in a Tonkatsu joint back home. It tastes much better here, even without dressing as the veggies are naturally sweet. The Japanese diet does not involve too much 'greens' and my system tells me I need the supplement so I buy this from Lawson, the convenience store chain daily. Today I splurged and topped it with beautifully marinated & smoked Kaki or baby oysters from Sapporo. Costs : salad Y105 - oysters Y300 - roast tea Y120 = Y525 or $40 .... you cannot beat that, and I love it!
What you see is a shredded cabbage salad, the kind you can have as much as you want in a Tonkatsu joint back home. It tastes much better here, even without dressing as the veggies are naturally sweet. The Japanese diet does not involve too much 'greens' and my system tells me I need the supplement so I buy this from Lawson, the convenience store chain daily. Today I splurged and topped it with beautifully marinated & smoked Kaki or baby oysters from Sapporo. Costs : salad Y105 - oysters Y300 - roast tea Y120 = Y525 or $40 .... you cannot beat that, and I love it!
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