PAVLOVA

Speaking of desserts this time the Aussies get the applause. If the Red Wine Poached Pear is like a subtle declaration of love on the Left & Right Banks of the Seine, the Pavlova is like a vibrant show of vitality and affection, the Aussie way, on the beaches of Bondi and Manley. I love serving them, next to the pears.

Making the meringue is central to the success of any Pavlova, once this is mastered variations of the theme are unlimited, as far as your creativity allows. Trial and error is de rigueur here, you must keep making them in order to get the egg white to the right 'peak'. Even more importantly you need to rein in your oven for her best behavior. A well cooked crust, not necessarily crispy, with a marshmallow texture in the center is easier said than done but as long as you keep at it, you will get your own version right. You can make it like a layered cake, or as small sandwiches, or a giant version as shown. The Aussie use mixed fruits as topping, often with passion fruit as the sauce which works. I like to use mangoes, Indian mangoes are the best. I sprinkle cocoa powder on top, and I add dark chocolate chunks in the meringue for the 'chocophiles' in my dinner parties. I can guarantee the 'oohs and aahs' as soon as the Pavlova is brought to the table. One last thing, do not believe for a moment all the 'I am really too full for dessert' claims. They are nothing but polite lies, especially from your first time guests. Their masks will come off after the first serving, and unabashed claims follow as to who will get the last piece. Trust me, I am right on this so my advice is, present the big ones ... they are plate licking good!