TANGCANCOOK

ULUWATU

2012-02-13T01:46:00.000+08:00

Tour guides would label the Hindu Temple at Uluwatu, located at the southern most point of the island of Bali, as a 'must'. We are to see the unique sunset, the mystery of the age old temple, the ceremonial dances and of course the colony of not quite wild but certainly not domesticated monkeys ... the indigenous inhabitants. It took a while to get to as everyone wants a picture against the legendary sunset and the traffic was worse than a rainy day in Central. Not surprisingly, there was almost zero interest in the temple which was singulary unimpressive by temple standards, so were the dances. Literally hundreds were there just for the sunset, and be hazed by the damn monkeys. These cheeky animals took great pleasure in stealing hats, bags, sunglasses from everyone. I had my cap taken, Dora had both her hat & shades taken and chewed on, which infuriated her.

Granted it is a glorious sunset but it is also an extremely risky move as there is a 500+ feet cliff right behind the spot where most want pictures taken. The surging crowd, the frolicking monkeys, the scared kids running away from the primates ... are only a few feet away from those posing, and the perilous drop behind them. I can close my eyes and imagine that disastrous scene of tourists falling off as there are no guard rails, not even solid footholds, but just lose pebbles on dirt.

I caught one of these demigods on top of a pillar, with the last glimpse of the sun ... it was good enough for me.

Back at home I took Dora's name brand shades to the spectacle shop and the young man asked nonchalantly ; 'Were you in Bali?' 'How did you know?' 'The monkeys did this, right, you are the third customer here after Xmas ...'

Lonely Planet can sing Uluwatu's praises all they want but let me tell you, it is not worth it. If you insist, do not bother with buying entrance tickets because you only need them for the dances, which not everyone goes. The sunset pictures and harassment by the monkeys are free, so is the hilarity of watching hats, glasses and bags come off fellow tourists ... until your turn, as no one is spared. SPCA should send inspectors here, to protect the homo sapiens. Try somewhere else!

AQUATONIC POOL

2012-02-13T01:07:00.001+08:00

This is a very popular past time at the Ayana. The Thalasso & Spa is 'distinquished by a 650m Aquatonic Seawater Therapy Pool overlooking the Indian Ocean'. It says in the brochure that in addition to being the largest of such facilities worldwide, the venue has been 'voted' ... did not say by who ... #1 Spa in the World. I kid you not, #1, Numero Uno! For HK$500 one gets 2-hour of sheer pleasure in going through an intense circuit of cutting edge Aqua-Body Treatments, in heated sea water. It was fun, and very relaxing. The 4 of us had a wonderful time of sharing, which seldom happens at home as we are all so hopelessly consumed by our day-to-day routine and commitments.

It is pathetic when one stops to think, isn't is, that it takes a therapy pool in Bali to gel us as a family. Well, it is what it is, and I will take it in whichever way I can, and count my blessing. I am just the Father, nothing more, and nothing less!

DIVER'S LUNCH

2012-02-12T18:18:00.001+08:00

No tablecloth, no linens, no wines, no heavy duty cutleries, no glasses to drink from .... but man, that lunch on the beach at Matahari @ Tulamben was an experience I must blog. The 'kitchen' was the size of a large desk, with a simple grill and a small cutting board where the fish fillet, pickled salsa, shredded veggie salad, steamed rice all came from. No ceremonies, no attitudes either, but plenty of ear-to-ear smiles from everyone on the staff.

WOW! The dish completely bowled me over. I was expecting nothing more than a bite to fill my stomach but was I wrong. It just goes to prove, over and again, that as long as one cooks with one's heart, and with love, the end result will always be top quality ... Michelin stars notwithstanding!

DIVING IN TULAMBEN

2012-02-12T17:53:00.000+08:00

Dora was sick at the hotel, I am clastrophobic under water but loved being in the sea so I accompanied Andrea & Jess for a 3-hour drive to Tulamben, a renown spot for open water diving in South Bali. It was memorable. The USS Liberty, a merchant navy supply ship, was torpedoed by the Japanese in 1942 and towed to these waters where it sat until 1963, when Volcano Agung erupted and sank it near the beach. Amazingly the hull was pretty much intact and became a beautiful artificial reef, what is now known as the Liberty Wreck Coral Garden Drop. The dive site starts at 5m and reaches 28m with a visibility of 25m-50m.

All our girls, and son-in-law, are open water divers certified by PADI so this is a must. The best I could manage was snorkeling & watching from the surface ... good enough for me. We used the Matahari Resort as base and spent a glorius day in the blue sea, under blue skies, it could not have been better. Compared to diving in the Maldives it was a steal. The girls booked a very professional tour run by Scuba Duba Doo in Kuta. We spent HK$1000 per person for 3 dives, round trip private van transport, 2 excellent diving instructors cum tour guides, a simple but delicious lunch and above all, an extremely friendly, trusted, and enjoyable company which was priceless!

Scuba Duba Doo Dive Center @ Kuta Bali
(62) 361 761798
Email : info@divecenterbali.com
Website : www.divecenterbali.com

SEMINYAK STREET FOOD

2012-02-12T17:21:00.001+08:00

One major regret is we did not do the 'street food scene' at all on this trip, something I would have done a lot more should I be lone-rangering. Rightfully so, Dora has become quite cautious with what she eats these days, and street food is off her agenda. Andrea, being vegetarian, has limitations and Jess is more into American comfort foods like a good burger. Well, that does not give me too many options as their F&B servant. I proposed lunch at the Makasan Padang on Main Street Seminyak, a 3-items with rice for HK$10 sort of heaven-on-earth eatery, and received zero support. Worse yet, shopping took over (what else is new) and we ended up skipping lunch! I had to apologize to the old couple, who must be the owners, having told them earlier I will bring my family and introduce them to classic Indonesian Padang. It was a big loss of face, not to mention a complete waste of a unique eating opportunity as the selection was a mouth-watering gold mine.

OCEAN BEACH POOL

2012-02-12T16:53:00.000+08:00

Another spot at Ayana we loved was the Ocean Beach Pool, a sea water, free form pool built over the same cliff. The horizon is 270-degrees wide, and the only other place we have seen this was at Algarve, the eastern most point of Portugal from where one looks at the Atlantic. We watched everyone go through the same routine on the first visit ie stand at the edge of the pool, submerged to shoulder level, and stare into the emptiness of that huge stretch of blue water, and reflect .... it is one of those scenes that make everyone feel small, as a mere mortal. What about us? Dora, who cannot spell 'relax' actually did laps, quite determined too, while the girls and I perfected 'the art of doing nothing' and just vegetate ... I meant, meditate.

ANDREA & DREADS

2012-02-12T16:30:00.001+08:00

This artist adult-child of ours has had dread-locks for 7 years .... they are covering her entire back, her bottom and about to reach her legs. The most common question from the street is "are they real" and the proud answer is "of course, you want to touch it?" The next question is "how do you wash them ..." which commands a much more technical response. Here she is, in full glory, at The Rock Bar with the beautiful Bali sunset as back drop. When Andrea decides to start a new page and move on, and I have no idea when that is, she might need to shave her head!

AYANA RESORT BALI

2012-02-12T16:21:00.001+08:00

A bit of a catch up game on my blog. We were in Bali for our annual post-Xmas sojourn, this time without Terri & Fergus who were caught up playing parents to the twins, who were not quite ready to travel.

Ayana has been around in different incarnations so it is not a modern, glitzy resort which we do not like anyway as the guests tend to be a tad too 'beautiful' for our tastes. Located near Jimbaran Bay it is close to the airport, to Kuta, to Seminyak where young people prefer but for serenity it has to be the Ayana. Without question The Rock Bar, perching on the longest stretch of a cliff that forms the base of the resort, is an absolute must. Apparently it draws lots of visitors from around the island but hotel guests can bypass the queue, which can be long during the pre-sunset hours. We stopped by as soon as we arrived. It was idyllic, and mesmerizing, when the searing sun is replaced by cool sea breeze and innovative libation. Want to rediscover romance, try this one!

FAST DONOVAN FOOD

2012-02-12T15:35:00.001+08:00

I was watching the re-run of MasterChef Australia 2009 when the finalists were in Hong Kong, one of them competed with Chef Pak Tam, a star pupil of Chef Donovan at the Derby. Pak is a good friend and a respected teacher. The dish was classic Donovan ie multi-ingredients, multi-tasked, complicated, uncompromising and unforgiving ... Pigeon 2-Ways with Black Truffles & Ravioli. It was mind boggling that from start to plating it took only an hour.

From all the 1-on-1 coaching I was fortunate to receive from Donovan over the years, and especially the 2-weeks I spent at The Atlantic kitchen, I am trying to create a menu of what I call 'Fast Donovan Food' ie recipes that will capture the Chef's spirit, approach, creativity but above all his unyielding discipline to prepare quality dishes. It is home cooking after all, but with enough flair to make it presentable at dinner parties. I owe Donovan this much!

My fingers were itching after the show and, in the Chef's honour, made this the next day.

* breast & leg of a quail, quickly sauteed, then roasted to medium rare
* bed of grilled baby leeks, fava beans, lardon
* a quail egg, perferrably runny, halved
* port & red wine reduction using carcass of quail & mire poix
* truffle paste is more accessible & affordable, to add flavor and as garnish

My version of 'Fast Donovan Food' ... yes, it can be done within the hour. I shared this with Donovan, and he approved!

WHITNEY IS NO LONGER WITH US!

2012-02-12T14:47:00.002+08:00

I woke up to the extremely sad news of Whitney Houston's passing, at 48, the result of substance abuse and career failures but behind it all, probably from bad company. How unfortunate! It is a huge loss to the industry that such a talented woman should die so young. I am very old school, as in many other aspects of my existence, but especially in pop music. To me there are only 4 names in the small circle of accomplished female black superstars; Ella Fitzgerald, Dionne Warwick, Diana Ross and last but certainly not the least Whitney Houston. Other songsters come and go ... Madonna, Mariah, Celine, J Lo and of course Lady Gaga but they can all eat the dust of my all time favorites.

Dora & I were at her concert some years ago, probably her only appearance in Hong Kong but I might be wrong. She was at the height of her career, and her arrogance, which often comes hand-in-hand with success in the music world. She was condescending to the audience, to the extent of being unprofessional, like walking off stage half way through a song, imagine that! That said, when she returned to being serious she delivered her magic, with all her might, like the first waves from a tsunami. I can still hear her, right now as I write, the power of that convincing and unmistakenly Whitney voice which one immediately recognizes after the first few notes.

Sales of 'The Best of Whiney' will hit the charts in the ensuing weeks, I am sure, and why not?

I will miss you, will say a prayer for you, and ... "I Will Always Love You"

Rest in Peace, Whitney!

A STAR IS BORN

2011-12-11T18:44:00.000+08:00

Congratulations to Chef Jeremy Biasiol at The Mirror on receiving his 1st Michelin Star!

Together with his trusted partners David Sung & Clifford Chan, plus an incredibly hardworking team of kitchen and floor staff they delivered this well deserved accolade, in 15-months! I still remember meeting David, an accomplished restaurant designer, for the first time less than 2 years ago when he shared his vision of starting a classic French eatery that serves traditional fare. Voila, not only did his dream become reality, it is now star-quality. Chef Jeremy is a master at local ingredients, and he can be seen at the wet markets nearby every morning for his 'catch of the day'. We had the most delicious fish, prawns and lobsters on every visit, it is mesmerising to watch how he wields his magic wand.

You have to experinece it to believe it, these folks are first class. Well done, Jeremy, hats off and here is to your 2nd Star!

The Mirror : 6F Tiffan Tower 197-199 Wan Chai Road @ 2573 7288

QUOTABLE QUOTES

2011-11-23T19:30:00.002+08:00

Heard the following from 2 celebrity TV chefs, worth repeating here;

"I travel, I write, I eat and I am hungry for more!" .... Chef Anthony Bourdain
"How did you climb down from being a hero to zero so quickly?" .... Chef Gordon Ramsey

I cannot wait to emulate the 1st, and use the 2nd on someone when the opportunity arises.

PEDIGREES

2011-11-18T13:02:00.003+08:00

Like martial arts, the culinary arts take pride in 'pedigrees'. I may be a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu but I know Escoffier is a different and some may even say better, pedigree, even though they both have French roots. I was also a student of Shaolin Kung Fu but pedigree in that space is even more complicated.

The vintage picture on the kitchen wall of Chef Donovan Cooke at home shows him as Head Chef at Harveys, with his Boss & Mentor Marco Pierre White, and his partner the Patissier. Marco, hailed as doyen of modern British cooking since the 80s has luminous names under his tutelage, such as, Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde, Heston Blumenthal at Fat Duck and Gordon Ramsay, the celebrity TV chef we all love to hate, but keep tuning in anyway. Pedigree in a vocation like cooking, especially during one's formidable years as an apprentice or Commis, is a good thing. We need mentors and role models, ideally tough ones who is good at handing down discipline. The best way for any junior to learn about pedigree, and to grow under pedigree, is in this sort of a settimg. Donovan fits the mode, he came from pedigree at a young age, notably Marco Pierre White & Michel Roux, and he is doing what he can to pass it on. I am convinced his 'reputation for fierce bollockings' is a definitive trait he inherited from Marco who, by the way, still does it with full flair in his own TV show, Hell's Kitchen UK.

There you have it, Kitchen Pedigree!

MICROS

2011-11-18T11:55:00.001+08:00

MICROS is the quintessential gadget in a commercial kichen. It is the central link, the common denomintaor that allows everyone on the team to 'talk to each other'. The key functions it deploys are (1) taking orders from the floor staff and immediately transmit to all units, from 'soup to nuts' as the expression goes and diners are labelled as Seat 1, Seat 2 etc Seat 0 means sharing a plate like side dishes of veggies (2) highlighting preferences like no garlic, no cream, light on spices (3) monitoring the duration between courses like calling in a second or main course. Throughout service the slips, or dockets rather, will simultaneously emerge from 6 different locations around the kitchen ie cold larder, hot appetizers, grill, seafood, veggies & pastas, desserts. There is even one in the basement prep room in case anyone missed anything. The Micros may be extremely low-tech but it is the first equipment any one who aspires a cooking career must learn to use.

The Micros modus operandi reminds me of a symphony orchestra, as follows ....

* Donovan is the Conductor at the Pass, the Micros becomes his baton
* Head Chef is the Concert Master who has 6 pairs of eyes, one on each Section
* Section Leaders are like Principal players in strings, woodwinds, percussions etc
* Dockets are music scores, highlighting how each performance is to be played
* Diners are the audience who, of course, judges with their palate vs the auditory function

The Micrso is sacrosant and I get a distinct feeling the entire crew, from Donovan down (especially him as a matter of fact) is totally obssessed with it, probably from years of conditioning. Everytime it 'speaks', like a telex or ticker tape machine from yester years, those around it would jump, would eagerly grab the docket, and would instinctively act on the commands. A very Pavlovian behavior indeed, I was in awe just watching the process, it is meserizing!

BACK TO SHANNON

2011-11-18T11:03:00.001+08:00

I must put this dish on the blog, it was the Piece de Resistance at Vue De Monde the other night. 3 delectable items on a classy plate : a perfecly cooked and presented marron with every part intact, a few paper thin slices of amazingly seasoned ox tonuge sandwiched in parmesan wafers and, lastly, beautifully flavored butter or was it mousse but regardless, a delicious silky spread on either the crayfish or the tongue. My taste buds were completely blown away as I languished on cloud 9 or at least close to it at 55F Rialto. A stroke of masterly genius, Chef!

DEMISE OF MAZE

2011-11-18T10:11:00.003+08:00

While The Atlantic is basking in the midday sun, a competitor is biting its nails on the flip side. Just about 2 years ago the Maze, by Gordon Ramsay on the Crown Casino complex, was the talk-of-the-town and we were fortunate to be able to dine there. No surprises, classic Ramsay, but one of those fine dining experiences we marvelled at the table but could not quite remember the details quite soon afterwards. I heard the Maze has been bankrupt since August and is in the hands of receivers. It will soon be rebranded, code for closing its doors and Ramsay no more. Sigh! Could it be the style of food, the service, the marketing or the combination of the 3 horses? Shit happens ... it is not the first nor will it be the last time, a saying that probably applies to the restaurant business more frequently than others. Someone ought to write this up as it would make a good case study on branding & marketing for hospitality students, wouldn't it?

AAA @ ATLANTIC

2011-11-18T09:51:00.001+08:00

Speaking of unsung heroes on the Atlantic team who collectively propelled her to her 'First Hat' in less than a year, there are 2 ladies aka 'the gorgeous marketing arm' who tirelessly drive what I call the AAA ie Atlantic Awareness Agenda. Sarah Seddon, on the right, and her associate Ruthie Hunt, deserve a round of applause. I am on Donovan's mailing list and have been very impressed by the barrage of strategic and skillfully directed interviews and articles before, during and after opening. Having witnessed the rise and fall of many eateries I am of the view that sustainable success is a 3-horse carriage. The soul of any restaurant must be the quality and style of food she produces, and like the military it must be under the commanding leadership of the Executive Chef. That alone will never work though, unless it is backed by a professional team on the floor who understands and practises every nuances of top end service. Lastly, and equally important, is an astute and innovative marketing programme. Watching it up close the past 2 weeks, this formula must be working at The Atlantic.

Well done .... 'Gorgeous Ladies'!

"TRADERNE" @ HARE & GRACE

2011-11-18T09:17:00.003+08:00

Chef Raymond Capaldi told me he came across the words 'heir and grace' in a GQ magazine and immediately thought he could tweak them, hence Hare & Grace for his restaurant. A friend of Donovan's he spent a few years in Hong Kong as Executive Chef at the Intercontinental when The Plume (remember that) was at her peak. His menu, labelled "TRADERNE" ie combining Traditional & Modern, or simply the modern approach to traditional food, is innovative and extensive. He is not by any means into Molecular Gastronomy which Donovan wittily summarizes as 'Foam on Foam'. A prolific Food Blogger from St Kilda who only identifies himself as Neil expresses it even better ' .... mucking around with food to produce tastes and textures outside of our everyday notions of what food really is .... ' Need I say more?

I am sure it has something to do with Donovan making the booking, our Traderne menu was 18 coures! Some readers might still remember the 24-course challenge at the Derby with Donovan when it took 6 hours from 7pm to 1am. Chef Raymond's 18 were presented very matter-of-factly, but with star qualities on the menu, some even carry only a single word like Borage, Yabbie, Asparagus, Parsley etc but they were all creative, thoughtful, full of surprises and without any doubt they must all took hours to prepare.

Other than the Eaton Mess his Pork Belly, as shown, was another winner. Sandwiched by 2-layers of heavenly Black Pudding, the perfectly constructed tower was garnished with Acid Apple, Fake Cinnamon on a Crusty Coffee Sauce. Volia ... "Traderne" at its best!

HARE & GRACE Eatery and Minibar : 525 Collin Street Melbourne (61) 3 9629 6755

ETON MESS

2011-11-17T09:50:00.001+08:00

This is, by far, one of the most unusual dishes I have tasted. It is the brainchild of the innovative Chef Raymond Capaldi at Hare & Grace in Melbourne. More on the restaurant later, let us return to this art piece .....

* passion fruit juice in gelatin form at the bottom sets the base flavor
* dollop of horseradish cream in the far left corner
* cuddling against it a perfectly shucked, pristine Pacific Oyster
* dainty pink wafers are crispy beet root meringue

Eton Mess is a time honored English dessert of strawberries, meringues and cream. Per Google 'it is traditionally served after the annual cricket game between Eaton College & Winchester College' ... bit aristocratic sounding there ... it has, since the 1930s, become a favorite of the Brits. It is one of Nigella Lawson's 'best summer treats'.

History aside, my point is, who would ever dream of (1) adding an oyster (2) using horseradish as cream (3) trading pink for pink ie beet roots for strawberries ... hence revolutionarizing a classic dessert into a creative appetizer? Chef Raymond did, and it is outstandig!

Eton Mess, do not forget, and for those who claim to know what it is I have news, it is not what you think it is ....... if you are in Melbourne , you owe it to yourself to try this one.

SHANNON MAGIC

2011-11-17T08:32:00.002+08:00

The grandiose view from the 55F of the Rialto, one of the tallest if not indeed the tallest structure in downtown Melbourne on Collin Street, is commanding. This is where Chef Shannon Bennett delivers his magic, at Vue de Monde, the 2011 Restaurant of the Year. I met the legendary chef almost 6 years ago, via Donovan Cooke's introduction. My very first impression was the face of lead guitarists from leading rock bands in the 1960s who all looked pretty much alike. Complete with an incredible head of flowy, wiry hair and a full moustache his give-away was the chef's white, and the classic royal blue striped apron. Nothing has changed on this visit, as though time stood still, and there he was in his full glory. The only difference, Shannon is now at the top of his game, and world renowned.

We were never shown the menu, but rather a presentation at the table. Our options were either 'Freedom' ie the Chef is free to decide what he wish to serve, like 'Omakase' at the counter of an up-market Japanese eatery, or, 'Choice' which the diner chooses from an a la carte menu. I suspect most would let Shannon lead the way. So .... it is 'Freedom OR Choice' and not 'Freedom OF Choice' .... quite clever, really.

To any serious foodie the Vue de Monde experience is of Mecca proportions, and not to be missed. Instead of my usual plattitudes I shall leave it as a mystery, a mouth-watering one, for your next visit to Melbourne. Trust me, you will not regret it.

Vue De Monde at (61) 3 9691 3888 or www.vuedemonde.com.au

STAFF MEALS

2011-11-15T09:46:00.002+08:00

'Chicken Parmgiana with Chips & Salad' ... a Melborune favorite, I was told. Verdict? A tad on the dry side, but tasty nonetheless probably from the slice of salty processed ham, and grated parmesan. BTW judging from the proliferation of potatoes consumed, in every incarnation one can imagine, the lion share of arable Aussie land must be used to grow this crop. Amazing! The Section Heads take turns to prepare these meals, which promised variety in cooking styles. We had an excellent meal of Teriyaki Chicken with Mushroom Sauce & Basmati Rice prepared by a young chef from Hong Kong last week, countered by a Meat Pie in a reheatable wrapper on Friday as no one had time to cook. Yuck!

To most on the team, this is the only chance for nourishment in the course of the day. You see, most do not get home until well after midnight, only to return shortly after 9am for preparatory work so sleep is more precious than food. Most would trade breakfast for 30 more minutes of snoozing. Lunch service starts at 11am, sometimes until 3pm since the clientale is almost exclusively holiday makers from Crown Casino. Well, no time for lunch as well, until 430pm when Staff Meal is served. The next time their stomach get any relief, aside from a large quantity of water during service, is 8-10 hours hence. I guess this is why the risk of intestinal problems in the profession. To say that I learned a lot from my 2-weeks here is an understatement. I am in the middle of a gold mine and the more I dig the more 'gold' I find. My leaning curve is steep and I am in my elements. I am so happy words cannot express it ....

THE "DONOVAN COOKE"

2011-11-15T09:04:00.002+08:00

No kidding, this monstser stove that measures 8.5 metre x 2.1 metre and weighs 2.5 tonnes is named 'Donovan Cooke' since it was designed by, and custom-made for, the Chef. The main stove was handmade by Garland in Toronto, Canada. Instead of open burners often seen on traditional commercial equipment, Donovan chose 16 induction hobs made by Garland's German factory. To complete this 'cooking battleship' (for those who understand professional kitchen equipment) there are; Gas Fired Target Tops, Frymaster Deep Fryers, Sous Vide Recirculators, Salamanders, a Pasta Cooker, 18 Refrigerated Drawers, and an Aztec Wood Fired Open Grill that use logs to generate 400C+ heat for fish, poultry and meats .... it is quite an incredible sight. His team of skilled chefs will suround this huge island, running different sections, while Donovan directs them at the 'Pass' in front, where he is seen cherishing a lull during service last night, leaning comfortably against his name sake.

THE "AUSSIE"

2011-11-13T21:03:00.002+08:00

Today is Sunday and the only commitment I have is an Aussie BBQ at Chef Donovan's home in the evening. I woke up late, slept for 8 hours non-stop which I seldom do and instead of the gym, I took a long walk in the afternoon. Australia has become expensive, not just because of her exchange rate with the HK$ ie A$1 to HK$8.2 but for the average consumer as well. I was shocked by prices at Coles Central, the Aussie answer to Wellcome & Park N Shop. Comparing grocery prices at supermarkets is my favorite past time in any city. I wonder how an average citizen can afford to live here, not to mention a 56% tax rate for the top salary earners. Then I was attracted by this pizza joint, Pepperoni's, offering A$2 specials at lunch time. What you see is the "Aussie" ... the pizza version of my signature at home, the Mini Breakfast. On a slice of pizza dough are; bacon strips, ham and an egg, I kid you not! I had one but while it was OK taste wise it did not taste anything like pizza. Why? The meats were overcooked and dry, so was the egg but the fatal flaw, they forgot the cheese. It is another proof of why adaptation to local tastes simply does not work. It may be worth mentioning in my blog as a warning but it is nothing to write home about. Do not bother!!!!

EXCELLENCE vs ATTITUDE

2011-11-13T12:53:00.002+08:00

This was spotted at the entrance of a culinary cum hospitality school at a newly developed waterfront of Melbourne. It needs no explaining since it is the solid truth. Judging from what I saw, and experienced, from my first week at The Atlantic, a healthy and heavy dose of 'Attitude' is what brought on their 'Excellence' .... winning their first accolade as a brand new competitor in merely 12-months, on the fierce and merciless Melbourne food scene. Her 'First Hat', the equivalent of a Michelin Star, was awarded by the Melbourne Good Food Guide. Go Chef Donovan & Team, your Second & Third Hats are beckoning in the wings!

"BEHIND"

2011-11-13T10:03:00.005+08:00

The number of pots, pans, plates, containers, gadgets and everything else in between during service is staggering. Each item is used only once, for a single purpose, and imediately discarded for washing. There is no such thing as re-use for a different task, they go straight to the washing team. I love these folks who are at the rock bottom of the totem pole. I believe they are hourly workers but they are there at every service, always smiling, always ready and never complain. The only word, a single word, that comes from them is " ... behind ... " which is sacred in kitchen lingo. It is short for ' ... watch out, I am behind you'. One may be carrying a plate, a knife, a pot or anything at all and this word is a direct but effective warning to the person in front. Whoever started it should be medalled. This is almost universal now, at least in most English speaking pro kitchens.

Back to the washing team, all you see is the removal of used items, and replacement by clean ones, without pause, and without fail. We know they are there, negotiating their way through narrow and slippery passages because you always hear "behind, behind, behind" .... They are the unsung heroes, without them the entire assembly line would be paralysed. I want to put faces to that magic word, "behind". The picture shows two infectious smiles, from two willing teammates with the best work ethics, whom I like to recognize.

Hats off to you, my new found friends, on a job very well done ... I am all "behind" you!

HURRAH ... 450!

2011-11-13T09:18:00.000+08:00

If Dante wish to look for an Inferno in Melbourne the address is 8 Whiteman Street at Southbank VIC 3006 Australia, better known as the Esplanade at the Crown Entertainment Complex where The Atlantic is the largest restaurant. I really wanted to witness, in-vitro, how a big restaurant is run and my prayer was answered over this past week, and especially last night, a Saturday.

450 dinner guests landed on us between 6-11pm at almost non-stop traffic. On Friday, the night before, 100 less were served but the pace was different as diners all arrived betwen 7-930pm ie 2.5 hours of frantic madness, verses a drawn out 5 hours of less intense, but much longer madness. Whichever way you look at it, the burden is on the 18-member kitchen team, each and everyone of them. I was desperately trying to make myself useful during service, mindful that I am not in anyone's way. I stayed well clear of the 'Pass' where Donovan and his senior chefs were; calling new orders and final plating with chillingly scrutinzing QC eyes. Nothing goes unnoticed, and I mean nothing. If it is a bad mistake one gets hell on the spot, a lesser mistake one gets hell later, there is simply no hiding.

I just love the pace, the dynamics, the energy, sounds, the rhythm, the honesty, the brother/sisterhood but above all that attitude of digging in, and getting things done. After 2 consecutive nights of bombardment, on my feet over all those hours, my legs were in protest. I told one of the chefs how much I look forward to sleeping in today (Sunday) and his reply ' ... not for me, I will be back for mise en place bright and early tomorrow since we depleted our stock today ....'

Last night I hid behind Pak, the Senior Sous Chef to my right and Patrick, Sous Chef from London and got a real taste of 'heat'. They were guardians of the wood fire grill, which must be 400C and 130C more than the highest setting at a regular home oven. A 2" thick steak is seared, on both sides, in less than a minute. The picture was taken at the beginning of service, we (or rather they) looked very different at the end, drenched and bright red faced to begin with. I was out-classed and truly humbled by their dedication and focus.

Baptism of Fire .... indeed, in more ways than one. I was there, at The Atlantic, when 450 were served!

FANCY THIS?

2011-11-13T08:32:00.001+08:00

This is one of the crown jewels at The Atlantic .... it is a crayfish, not a lobster, as it does not have claws. Caught in waters near Stanley Tasmania, King Island, I am told these giants weigh 3-4 kilograms. It says MP in the menu ie Market Price. Half of a 1.7 kg crayfish will set you back A$300 or US$315 or HK$2,460 and if you are not sure the 'poor man's version' at 1.1 kg is 'only' A$210 .... do not forget the 10% service charge on top of that. That said, it carries enormous appeal, be it in wood fire grilled mode, or poached and served on a cold platter with its crustacean cousins. An unstoppable 'head turner' they are, when paraded around the dining room. Regrettably, the closest I could get to one was helping the section head in charge of cold seafood appetizers last night, when he single-handedly prepared 30 (!!) yes 30 platters of Tassie Crayfish, Spanner Crabs, Tiger Prawns, Oysters, Clams etc etc ... when John Galbraith coined the term conscipuous consumption at Harvard I do not think he had these babies in mind, not in his wildest dreams!

ACCIDENTAL JUNIOR COMMIS

2011-11-10T22:16:00.001+08:00

Wikipedia defines Commis as : " .... a basic chef in larger kitchens who work under a Chef de Partie to learn about the stations and operations, he or she may be a chef who has recently completed formal culinary training or is still undergoing training". Well, yours truly is at best a Junior Commis, and for that matter an Accidental Junior Commis who has the good fortune of landing at the right place, at the right time.

It was accidental when Donovan and I walked into each other's lives 7 years ago, it was also accidental 7 years hence when we meet again in Melbourne at his rated 'Talk-of-the-Town' restaurant. What is not accidental is the fond friendship and trust developed between us over the same period. The past 3 days at The Atlantic was an absolute eye opener for this 'wannabe' cook (not chef) who finds cooking for 12 at home a challenge. What rubbish! I feel so humbled, and terribly small now. It is amazing to watch the pace, the stamina, the team work, the dynamics and of course the sporadic temper flares. Here I am with the Boss, all smiles and relaxed at the end of lunch service, around 330pm today. I call this 'the eye of the storm' before the full fury of dinner traffic hits again 2 hours later. I am quietly preparing myself for 'baptism of fire' this weekend when 400+ are expected. By Sunday I hope to emerge a better kitchen hand than I am today.

PIECE de RESISTANCE

2011-11-10T15:05:00.000+08:00

This is it .... with the gospel according to Donovan Cooke all over it. The showpiece, the best part of a meal, the ultimate Piece de Resistance! On the menu it simply says Warm Salad of Smoked Eel, but it has to be one of the tastiest that I have tasted from the maestro's kitchen. This dish is the end result of simple, top quality ingredients, prepared simply to the highest standards, nothing more.

Smoked Eel / Hand Picked Frisee / Smoked Bacon Bits / Garlic Croutons plus 2 other 'killer' items t0 bring the salad to dizzying heights at the palate pleaser charts. (1) a slowed cooked 60C free range runny egg and (2) a dressing made from smoked bacon fat, egg yolk, Dijon & Pommery mustard, sherry vinegar, prepared like a home made bacon flavored mayonnaise. To garnish, a pinch of Black Rock Salt Flakes. Yes, you can do this at home and once you did, you will never look back. I had this baby for lunch, and I can still taste it hours later!

KITCHEN ORGANIZATION

2011-11-09T23:12:00.003+08:00

Apparently serving its maximum capacity ie 300 during the week, and on busy weekends, up to 400 a night is 'normal' at The Atlantic. I was in total disbelief when Donovan first shared those mind boggling numbers with me. How does his team, or any team, manage? I saw how it was done, for 280+ last night and began to get a feel of the dynamics. When I worked with Donovan at the Derby rarely would we get 100, and 80 was considered a heavy night. Granted the menu is different, being not at the top end of fine-dining, nonetheless the dishes still require a myriad of ingredients and detailed preparation. A big dose of 'mise en place' I guess ie 'putting in place' in French or, as the CIA interprets it, 'everything in place' before service. Donovan is seen here with his Head Chef Alex ... the Soul of the Kitchen and his Alter Ego at work.

Here is how the team is organized, a headcount of 16-18 to provide daily lunch & dinner service. A normal work day would start at 9am, and it seldom finishes before 11pm, even worse on weekends. Just imagine 14-hour on your feet, at a tight station, 6 days a week?

Chefs : Executive Chef / Head Chef / Sous Chef
Heads of Units : Hot Appetizers / Cold Appetizers / Larder / Grill / Veggie
Oyster Bar / Salads / Garnish / Desserts

Welcome to the world of any leading rated restaurant, anywhere, life is not exactly a bowl of chocolates!?

1ST ATLANTIC ENCOUNTER

2011-11-09T14:28:00.004+08:00

I joined the boys and girls at The Atlantic for my first dinner service last night. It was a blissful 6 hours, I felt totally blessed to be able to rejoin my Mentor Chef Donovan and his team, some were my TAs (Teaching/Tutorial Assistants) when they were at the Derby back in Hong Kong. To the devouted it was 'a born again expereince'. At the end of a sweaty but spiritually invigorating watch that made almost 300 diners happy I received my reward. A succulent crayfish which must still be swimming in Western Australian waters when I was on CX135 to Melbourne .... roasted to perfection, it was presented on a bed of crispy veggies, with fried sweetbread, and topped with a sauce of double chicken stock, mussels stock, shallott and Noilly Prat. Hong Kong can continue to claim sophistication on the food front but one simply cannot get the same quality of super freshness at home. I cannot wait for more of such encounters. I have 10 more days so, eat your hearts out. WOW factor? Fortissimo Maximo!

OCEAN-TO-PLATE PHILOSOPHY

2011-11-09T11:46:00.000+08:00

This is the display window of The Atlantic which features freshly caught gems of the sea, from left to right .... Blue Eye, Yellow Fin Tuna, Hapuka and Snappers .... It is an impressive display, in a cold room over crushed ice, but not for very long as the business traffic calls for them to be served within a couple of days. On the wall of the Chef's Office at The Atlantic is a prominent piece of paper with the word 'Sustainability' in block capital. It is not rocket science, it is motherhood, it is easy to understand but the key is, the management is mindful which is the right place to start. I thought I would share the essential bits on my blog.

Do you know 80% of the world's fish stock is over-fished or fished to its limit? The Atlantic prides itself of practicing the Ocean-to-Plate Philosophy which means ' ... the restuarant does not rely on any one type of fish, the menu is so flexible it changes daily depending on what is caught the day before and what is the freshest available'. The chef responsible for fish is instructed 'to check with the supplier at the crack of dawn, everyday'.

The following questions will be asked :

* is the species overfished
* how was it caught, or was it framed
* any collateral damage to the environment, and to other marine wildlife
* was it a deep sea (takes much longer to recover) slow growing or long lived species
* or it is a species of local origin which is not always sustainable

Then there is what I would call 'The Atlantic Motto' which makes good sense :

* we accept responsibility for the part we play
* our buying habit now can shape the future
* fish stock we chose today directly affects the health of our oceans tomorrow

THE ATLANTIC

2011-11-09T11:08:00.001+08:00

Located on the Esplanande of the Crown Casino complex in Melbourne The Atlantic has been the 'Talk-of-the-Town' since its opening last year. It is the largest restaurant on the strip and has a wonderful set up of main dining, tasteful private rooms, oyster bar, and in the basement a cool and exclusive hideaway for parties. On the food front Chef Donovan Cooke's return to his second home, Melbourne, where he was Chef of the Year twice before his shourn at the Derby in Hong Kong, has created quite a stir. His name, along with the restaurant, have splattered the life style and eating pages of the media. Built for 300-cover, code for maximum number of guests in restaurant lingo, it is an ambitious project not only for Melbourne but the Aussie food scene in general.

My 2011 plan was to attend cooking school in Barcelona, to learn the art of Tapas but due to scheduling and language (almost exclusively taught in Spanish) hiccups it did not happen. Out of the blue this unique opportunity emerged ie spend 2-weeks with my Mentor to see how he tames this 'beast'. It took me 1-second to say yes, only fools would refuse. The in-vitro experience, seeing how things work and of course not work, up close, in real time is, something a commis like me ... lowest life in a profesional kitchen ... can only dream of. Donovan is not just the professional who wears the hat of my Mentor who taught me cooking, he inspired me to the extent I started my schooling plans. It is karma for us to meet and to become close friends. Cooking is only a set of skills but to pursue one's passion, to live one's dreams, to appreciate the hardships in climbing the culinary ladder, to respect those who are climbing it, and most importantly, to understand humble beginnings and of course, stay humble .... the list is long and Donovan taught me a lot across the board. He is no doubt 'daman' who changed me. My retirement life is at its fullest, even fuller than my work life I dare say, in no small part because of Donovan Cooke. Thank you Chef!

CLASSIC 'YANG-ZHOU' FRIED RICE

2011-11-04T19:16:00.043+08:00

My late Grandfather taught my late Father, who in turn taught me the art of identiyfing a 'well done' Yang-Zhou Fried Rice. You take a single chopstick and run it from the top of the plate or bowl, all the way to the bottom. Once you hit bottom you push the rice aside and look for traces of oil. If you find oil, it fails the test. If there is no oil you check if the rice kernels are coated evenly. If not, it fails but if it does, you look for that shine (from evenly coated oil) .... simple enough? Dad also said the ingredients must be sauteed in separate batches ie char sui, prawns, minced ginger, sweet preserved trunips, scrambled eggs before they get anywhere near the rice for the final toss. Lastly, fold in a generous garnish of freshly chopped spring onions, including the white bits to yield fragance and color contrasts. Voila!

BTW Dad never cooked a single thing in his life, but advice on how classic Cantonese dishes are to be prepared and to be served, a la Guangzhou style in the 30s-40s, he taught me volumes. I miss him.

TIRAMISU CHEESECAKE

2011-11-02T00:57:00.001+08:00

Tiramisu is an all time favorite. Cheese Cake is an all time classic. What about a hybrid? Tiramisu-Cheesecake is the answer. I was given this recipe by another foodie who excels in the space I panic ... patisserie. It is simple, doable and adorable. I like to share it.

16 Savoiardi Biscuits - 500 gm Cream Cheese - 250 gm Mascapone - 125 gm Castor Sugar
20 gm Plain Dark Chocolate - 3 Eggs
2 tablespoons Marsala - 4 tablespoons Cold Espresso Coffee

* spray cake tin with oil, then line with non-stick baking paper
* arrange biscuits to line base, sugar side up, brush with cold Espresso
* whisk cream cheese, Mascapone, eggs, sugar, Marsala until smooth
* pour over biscuits, smooth out surface, grate dark chocolate over
* preheat oven to 140C, bake cake x 1 hour till firm
* leave to cool, chill x 1 hour before service
* serve over vanilla custard cream, garnish with mixed berries
* recipe can serve 8-12

For Chocolate Cheesecake fold in melted plain dark chocolate, about 125 gm, into cheese mixture.

CHEF CHAM @ TRC

2011-11-01T22:20:00.001+08:00

For Members of the HKJC there is this little gem which, to all of us at Club FED (Friends for Epicurean Dining) is really the 'Crown Jewel' these days. TRC, short for The Racing Club, was created to attract keen 2nd generation race goers who have to turn in their membership cards on reaching 21. TRC aims to recruit them as 'Members in Waiting', so to speak. The very special purpose-built venue at the Happy Valley Racecourse, right over the finish, has made Full Members envious. A subsequent decision was made to open this facility to all members on non-racing days and this is when the rubber hits the road on the dining front.

Chef Cham Leong was Sous Chef to Chef Donovan Cooke at the Derby who was called to duty when TRC opened, as Head Chef. Instead of giving this fine avenue the promotional pitch I suggest you book a table and try for yourself. His Tasting Menu is the best way to go, his artistry is unmistaken, his quality is as high as it gets, and his interpretation of fusion is just, plain cool.

Look! Paper thin abalone presented in its own juice and a light Japanese dressing ....

SPCC '66 @ 45TH

2011-10-29T03:33:00.001+08:00

My graduating class, Form 5 in 1966 at St. Paul's Co-educational College celebrated our 45th Reunion a couple of weeks ago at the World Trade Center Club in Hong Kong. What you see is a beautiful, custom-designed toy model of the age-old, time-honored, #33 Macdonnell Road front gate of our alma mater. It has become the logo or brand image of SPCC. The souvernir is unique because inside is a music box that plays our School Hymn, "We Build Our School on Thee Oh Lord ... ". Thousands before me and thousands after will immediately embrace the opening notes, it is like returning to the womb. David Chu, our Class Monitor, is a renown industrialist in the toy industry and this meaningful gift comes from him.

There were 85 of us, including family, some of us have known each other since primary school so we are talking about at least 50 years of friendship if we count from Form 1, in 1961, and 56 years if we backtrack even further to Primary 1, in 1955. Collectively and unabashedly we enjoyed 5 hours of uninhibited teenage behavior, reliving our school days. Business tycoons, senior civil servants, professionals, academics, retirees and of course full time grannies ... we were 'whole' again as the gap of half-a-century closed at lightning speed. It was a sentimental and warm journey, it was magic, as we anticpate our Jubilee, the 50th Reunion in 2016.

NOODLES!

2011-10-15T14:03:00.001+08:00

One of our closest friends, a noodle aficionado, once remarked " ... I have never met a noodle I did not like!" Well, he would be in heaven in Japan. Every culture has its own interpretation of a good bowl of noodles and Japan is no exception. What made them slightly different is in addition to their own versions under the large umbrella of the ramen, udon, and sorba categories Japan has incorporated certain aspects of Chinese noodle recipes. As for marketing, just look at this unique display in front of a large 'fits-all-taste' noodle joint on Tenjimbashi.

By the way, we think Shinsaibashi has lost its local flavor in a big way. What used to be a fascinating walk with kimono shops, hardware stores, gifts shops, and local produce outlets is now swamped by franchised names like ... Zara. On the food front Macdonalds, Crispy Creme and Subway have popped up to replace indigenous, local snack stops both tourists and locals love. Hello? While this is all sad to see the saving grace is the survival of Tenjimbashi, off Minami Morimachi Station. This long stretch of covered shopping is like Shinsaibashi in its yester years, abundant with a much more interesting parade of retail outlets. We strongly recommend this walk.

Speaking of noodles, there was a Japanese movie from at least 15 if not more years ago by the name of 'Tenpopo'. It is the charming story of how a widow managed a neighborhood ramen shop via the help of a Robin Hoodish truck driver. It had to be the first ever Nippon foodie movie that made the international stage, and it was masterly. There was a scene when a ramen guru showed novices how a bowl of ramen is to be appreciated and religiously consumed, step by step. It was a classic, as classic as the famous Gone with the Wind or Casablanca scenes if you ask me, or any noodle lover. It is not easy to get this DVD, not even in Japan as I have tried so good luck looking for it. Of all places, my exJ&J Mentor Russ picked mine up from a ABC retail store in a Sydney suburb, of all places.

SHOPPING

2011-10-13T10:54:00.001+08:00

While Dora continues her never-ending quest for the best shopping mall on Planet Earth, I have given up altogether. My vices in this space used to be watches, spectacles and shoes. I never seemed to have enough of them until retirement when the penny dropped ... I can only wear one of them at any one time! I used to shop for my 'Central Uniform' twice a year, off-the-rack, mostly at Brooks Brother and when I feel miserable, hating my job, and myself, at Zegna. Retail therapy really works, try it. Needless to say, I do not do that anymore. I learned the principle of 'Less is More' by gradually giving my collection to charity.

That said, I am back into 'Elective Shopping' these days, for our grand twins, Jamie & Sonya Fung. We were at Hankyu and had the best time wandering around the kids floor ... clothes, shoes, acessories and of course very creative playthings, rather than just toys. It does not take a marketing genius to realize the potential of this huge market (cosmetics is still #1 I should think) and the choices, out of this world, we were born two generations too soon. As for prices, I really do not know how parents in Japan can afford to clothe their kids, if price tags at these super malls are any guide. Ours are not quite 1-year old but judging from the dedication and smiles on Grandma Dora, I can confirm she is tickled pink by the opening of yet another shopping frontier.

Meet my new pal, the Japanese speaking Big Teddy ....

GOLD DRAGON RAMEN

2011-10-13T01:32:00.001+08:00

My first ever bowl of Gold Dragin ramen, or 'lamen' in proper Japanese accent, was 18 years ago on a Rotary trip. It was our Sister Club signing ceremonies with the Rotary Club of Mido-suji in Osaka. Rotarian PP Kenny Shui was the event Leader since his hair care business required him to frequent the Japanese market. We brought our families but one of the evenings was designated a 'guys night', code word for indulgence, all clean fun in food and drinks, no dirty stuff. It was an incredibly cold night and after a few hours of non-stop alcohol infusion the party needed solids to stay balanced, in the stomache, since our brains turned liquid hours before.

Kenny took us to this street joint, under a tent with heaters and we had ramen ... we thought we died and went to heaven? The formula was; superbly cooked al dente ramen, in a seriously thick soup of pork bones in different seasoning, thin slices of char-sui, plus chopped spring onions & chives. To add to this already flavorful mix were all-you-can-tolerate condiments of; finely grounded black pepper, minced garlic, Korean kimchi, and extra chives. It won the hearts of many then, it still wins today, when I paid homage. It was a sentimental journey, our girls were 14, 9 & 6 then and they are 32, 27 & 24 today. Need I say more? Back in 1993 it was standing room only, next to a long bench and one pays when one is handed the piping hot bowl. Today there is a large structure with tatami seats, and coupons are dispensed from a machine. If I remember correctly it was Y500 then and Y900 now, not bad after 18 years, right?

Where is it? Shinsaibashi is a tourist favorite even though it is not the same place as it was before, and I will explain why in my next blog. Walking up Shinsaibashi fom the Midosuji end, you will cross the canal over a bridge but before you enter the next section, Ebisubashi, make an immediately left turn. You will see the famous 'giant crab' logo and Gold Dragon is down the road, on your right, an eternal landmark that you cannot possibly miss.

Lastly, the Japanese created Ajinomoto, what the non-believers call MSG, which I must admit I am slightly addicted. It is one of my sins that will eventully return to haunt me, I am told. This not so secretive ingredient is in the soup, which any card carrying ramen convert would savor, rght up to the last drop. On the other hand, this may explain why there is a faucet next to the condiments where free pouring of ice water is de rigurer. Do drink a few cups before you leave, please, you will not regret it.

KOBEYA SULPHIDE BAKERY

2011-10-13T00:28:00.000+08:00

Imagine a well known bakery from Kobe, operating a Spanish style tapas restaurant, in Osaka? Well, it was intriguing enough a story we bought it, and had quite a good casual meal there. This eatery is called Kobeya Sulphide Bakery Restaurant, with Dinga-Bell as the logo but please do not ask me why ... It is located on the 10th floor of the Lucua Building which houses many shopping outlets that appeal to the younger tribe, the ultra cool set. Lucua was the finale of Dora's 10-hour ritualistic inspection tour of the brand new Osaka Station Shopping Complex and we were (at least I was) so exhausted Kobeya was a most welcome stop.

The primary customer base must be no more than their early 20's and for a moment we thought price was a key attraction. We could not be more wrong! What we had was authentic, with a respectable selection of classic tapas fare .... grilled sardines, braised tripes, chorizo sausages, roast duck and for appetizers we had a trio of Iberico ham (not the top cuts but Spanish nonetheless) and a fresh garden salad, regrettably with no olives. Then came the first basket full of bread. WOW! Look at the bread menu, now we know why they call themselves a Bakery Restaurant because 'Bread is Their Winner', sorry for the bad pun attempt. As soon as we finished the 1st basket, orders were taken for the 2nd, and more after that, an offer we simply could not refuse. Just the bakery end of the meal was worth it, and we would be happy with bread, olive oil and a bowl of mixed Spanish olives.

Dinner for two, with one beer, came to HK$200 per head. I know, there was nothing significant to speak of but we still enjoyed every bit of it. BTW back to our gut feel the younger set was there because of price, wrong again. We were the only one watching our wallets, the young couple sitting next to us ordered the whole 9-yards, bubblies to start, and a full bottle of red to wash down the paella. They must feel so sorry for us old folks, on pension probably, who gingerly shared a Suntory draft. All of a sudden we feel old, and so hopelessly out of the loop. Tapas in Osaka? Stop wondering now, it is reality at Kobeya Sulphide, the one and only!

TEMPURA @ OZEKI'S

2011-10-12T23:07:00.001+08:00

We were taken by the Yosukes to a small home style tempura restaurant in the Abeno Ward. Owned and operated by a mother-and-son team, it only seats 8, and we were the only guests last night. To many who like Japanese cooking, the devil in tempura is the batter ... to start with, the flour must be right, the water to mix it must be the right temperature and then there are as well guarded industry secrets as there are tempura chefs. Ozeki-san's winning formula, without question, has to be the fluffiness of his end products. It was so lightly dusted we have to look hard for it, even after deep frying. Apart from the ususal parade of prawns, matsutake, pumkins, sweet potatoes, lotus roots, gingko nuts, sweet onions, morsels of succulent fish, squid, eel and so on, the show stopper was the chopped shrimp wrapped in a single orba leaf ... just like that, with no seasoning and the taste was beyond description. We had 3 portions each, and wanted more.

As in any foreign land, it always makes a huge difference when one is taken to the 'truly local eateries' where one's local contacts regularly patron. The mood and the comaraderie define the meal almost as much as the food. Though a relatively young man, Chef Ozaki is in a league of his own. We did not ask but somehow the 'presence' of the father was felt throughot the evening. We have been to rated tempura restaurants in Hong Kong, as well as in Tokyo, but this is the best one we have encountered yet.

If you happen to be in Osaka, and if you are interested take the subway to Abeno Station, get off and ask direction to Matsusaki Avenue which is to your left as you pass Abeno Central. This tiny eatry is a mere 10-minute walk, it is well worth the effort, trust me.

3-IN-1

2011-10-11T18:14:00.000+08:00

Have you seen one of these? I ran into this at the men's room at 1010, a department store near Osaka Station. Three functions are built into one sink .... top left nozzle for liquid soap, right nozzle for water and the elongated, rectangular outlet at the front is to blow dry your hands. Gone are sticky soap left on the surface, dripping water from wet hands, reluctant paper towels that refuse to come out one square at a time, the practice of wiping your hands on the seat of your pants, and yes, the lackadaisical toilet attendants who growl at you for intrusion of his private space. When I am done washing my hands the sink looked like it was never used, glisteningly clean. To whoever invented this gadget, presumably a Japanese, hats off!

INSPIRED!

2011-10-11T00:45:00.001+08:00

This may not look much but it has inspired me to do more TKT work on my consomme. This is an amazingly tasty consomme or broth of duck prepared with a few large chunks of char-grilled leek, a mix of Japanese mushrooms, slivers of sweet onions, and served with a slice of lime. We had a late lunch in this faceless, tiny noodle joint on the underground thoroughfare between two departmemt stores under Osaka Station, and what a treat it was. Absolutely delicious! The al dente udon picked up the beautiful flavors or both the duck nuggets and the well seasoned consomme. Sprinkled with classic spiced pepper, the few perfect mouthfuls hit all the right spots. I took copious notes, and wondered out loud if a Cantonese BBQ Roast Duck is doable in the recipe. I will share my research findings in due course, watch this space.

30 YEARS LATER

2011-10-10T23:49:00.001+08:00

Dora and I have a soft spot for Japan, a country we used to visit at least twice a year for the first 10 years of our 30 years together. Why .... because we like the culture, the adventure in food, the nick-knacks, the genuine friendship, but above all it was the farthest we could afford to get away for a breather without putting a dent in our meagre 'travel budget'. I still remember it took us 3 whole years to save enough money for our first trip to America as a family, and airfare then was a fraction of what it is now, without the surcharges and taxes. Europe was never a consideration then, it was way too expensive, and too far away with the 3 girls coming on stream.

Fast forward 30 years this trip to Osaka is actually the first time, in a long while, for us to return on our own! We dearly hope to return to our bi-annual routine again now that we have the freedom, the budget, and the time ... for me that is, Dora is a bona fide Diamond Member of the 'Never Retire Society' ... but before all that we shall need to first of all, stay healthy, and of course, stay married?

What do you think? Do we look like we have a chance?

OSAKA YAKI FEAST

2011-10-10T23:10:00.002+08:00

The closest English word one can use to describe 'yaki' is 'grill', except there must be a multitude of ways to 'yaki' in this country where cooking is an art form. What we had at the Yosuke household was 2 recipes that put Osaka on Japan's culinary map ie 'Tako-yaki' and of course, the one that made the city famous, 'Okonomi-yaki'.

'Tako' is octopus, a key ingredient in 'Takoyaki' which was served, or rather cooked at the table with a special gadget that grills up to two dozens at one go. In addition to octopus cut in cubes, shredded cheese, pickled pink ginger bits, chopped scallions, crispy butter flakes are mixed in a batter of simply just flour, water and seasoning. A special sauce that tastes like a marriage between OK Steak Sauce and Worcestershire is used as a dip. We consumed 2 full rounds as appetizers, the leftovers you can see on the flat pan which is used for the main course.

'Okonomi' means 'anything you like' ... and it is such an apt label for what is essentially a Japanese pancake cum omlette, sans eggs ... except a tiny bit of egg wash to marinate or rather soften the cabbage which, together with squid and bacon are added to the batter this time. It takes skills to flip this baby, and to make the skin cripsy without burning it. The sauce is something to behold; mustard, mayo, dark soy, Bonito flakes, and lastly a generous sprinkle of Nori. Voila ... 'Okonomi-yaki'!

Yaki-2-Ways, it does not get any better than what we had in the age-old, graceful and very traditional Yosuke family home.

A GREAT HONOR!

2011-10-10T09:54:00.003+08:00

Dora and I were deeply honored to be invited to the home of Junko & Iwatsu Yosuke for a 'Yaki' evening. We have been friends for almost 20 years through the Sister Club arrangements between the Rotary Club of Mido-suji in Osaka, and the Rotary Club of Hong Kong Northeast where I was a Charter Member.

It was an eye opener for us. We have never been to a vintage Japanese home, complete with a small zen garden that only shows up in Samurai movies. It is a grand family home in a quiet suburb of the city, one that oozes tradition and history. The formal portrait of the Emperor & Empress of Japan reminds one of a Thai family, where the monarchy is held in high regards. The home may have served 3 generations but it is immaculately kept, as expected. I particularly like the space called 'tokonoma' which in Chinese character means 'bed space'. I believe this is where beddings are kept during the day, to be lay-out on the 'tatami' at night for sleeping, a pragmatic Japanese approach to maximize use of limited space in any household, big or small. The house has 2 storeys, their married children used to occupy the rooms upstairs. Like us Junko & Iwatsu are empty nesters who now cherish their life with each other, and who long to see their faraway grand kids in Hokkaido. Perhaps it is my own sentiments at work again but there is an unspoken sense of melancholy here, one only parents with grown up children who are not nearby can identify. That said, even if your children are 'nearby', proximity does not mean in any way they are 'close to you', which is a different definition altogether. To all you loving parents, I am sure this will ring a bell. Such is life, what can I say?

Arigato .... our very dear friends, for such a privilege. We are forever grateful, and look forward to reciprocate at our humble B&B in Hong Kong, come visit soon!

QUOTABLE QUOTE

2011-09-14T02:17:00.000+08:00

'Before it was Regular, then it became Light, and now it is Zero .....' President Benigno Aquino comparing his love life with his favorite drink, Coca Cola.

He may be Head of State, but he is another human being, just like many of us, I guess!

911 ... I WAS THERE!

2011-09-11T15:05:00.003+08:00

This was taken from the porch of my water front room at Ship Ahoy, when I was at the Boothbay Harbor wedding in Maine. Peaceful, idyllic, serene, tranquillity are words that can best describe the ambience.

Fast forward 4 weeks, exactly to the date, we have the antithesis .... the 10th anniversary of 911 in 2001, in New York City when the sky opened up and hell dropped on America, on her people and the Nation has not been the same.

I was there, stranded for a week in NYC. I witnessed the best of human behavior including; courage, selflessness, comradeship, sacrifice, dedication, perseverance, love, brotherhood, trust on the one hand, and of course fear, tragedy, loss, hysteria, anguish, anger, helplessness, hopelessness on the other .... the list goes on. I was in tears for hours when I visited the Armory Downtown, the onsite clearinghouse of 'Lost & Found' of the living, the dead, and of course the mssing. It had to be the most moving moment in my life, it was then, and it still is now. Months afterwards when I was asked about those 5 fateful days in NYC tears would flow, uncontrollably, as I relived that saddest experience.

To me, America is like a foster parent whom I have 'lost touch' with. When I was a Freshman at Tufts 43 years ago in 1968 I thought I would never, ever, leave America and her way of life. 8 years hence I could not wait to return home, to Asia, where I have been since. Inherited during my formidable years, there is still some 'America left in me', without question. I continue to feel for the Nation, and the people, especially around 911. I support the view that American has learned a hard lesson, and learned it well. People in Hong Kong want to keep the 'Spirit of June 4th Alive', America ought to do the same for 911 .... 'Lest We Forget'.

God Bless America!

KHAI LOOK KOEY

2011-09-07T07:18:00.000+08:00

Once upon a time there was a mother who was a kitchen Goddess, and a young man who was deeply in love with her daughter but who could not cook. Knowing the only way to get approval from the matriarch was via the culinary route, he created a simple egg dish that, yes, won her the son-in-law title. Well, this story was told when I was at Wandee, my Thai cooking school.

Khai Look Koey aka the Son-in-Law Egg, is a permanent fixture in Thai cuisine, it can be found almost anywhere in street food stalls. This delicious side dish cannot be simpler to make, and it is a perfect complement with any meal.

KHAI LOOK KOEY or Deep Fried Eggs in Tamarind Sauce

* make hard boiled eggs (10 minutes) & soak in cold water
* deep fry eggs in oil over medium heat until golden brown
* remove from heat to cool before cutting in halves
* deep fry shallott, garlic, dried red chillies till golden & crispy
* mix seasoning sauce over low heat till thick ... see below
* pour over eggs, sprinkle crispy garnish, add fresh coriander

The Seasoning Sauce is key and that involves (a) 4 tablespoons of Tamarind Juice, from cooking down chunks of semi-dried tamarind pieces (b) 4 tablespoons of Palm Sugar and lastly, (c) 3 tablespoons of Fish Sauce.

WORLD-OF-DAISY

2011-09-04T17:02:00.001+08:00

No, I do not spend my day blogging, nor do I read everybody else's. I do, however, have a couple of favorites which I check in every now and then and this is one. Daisy Wong is apparently a prolific writer who has authored a few books. A lawyer by training she has the proverbial sharp tongue that comes with the trade. What I like is her 'straight talk-no nonsense-no BS' disposition, and her almost always truthful, direct and often hilarious observations about life in this town. This one on 'model couples and marriages per se' is case in point.

Try http://world-of-daisy.blogspot.com/ and see what you think?

LE FESTIN DU CONSEIL CONJUGAL

2011-09-04T10:32:00.002+08:00

I was given a tall order recently by Jess, the kind that only appears in the Master Chef Series. A young couple, close friends of hers, has decdied to tie the knot and I am to host, and to cook, a dinner with a 'nuptial theme'. I am supposed to share the matrimonial wisdom I have gained (sic) from my own 30-year term .... bad pun, I know, but it is 'cute' and it is my poetic license. I suggested we use the number 9, roughly translated as 'lasting' or 'long-living' so we had a party of 9, with 9 courses. I like to think it made an impact not only to the 'newlys' but to everyone around the dinner table as well, including Dora and I.

With Lionel's advice in French vocabulary, we gave the party a name ie The Banquet of Marriage Counselling. The menu has 2 parts : key operative words useful in maintaining a marriage, accompanied by the dish served. For the couple I also prepared flip cards with simple explanatory words.

* AMUSE : Sense of Humor - Abalone Sauteed in Butter with Lime
* STACKING : Build & Share - TKT Signature Mini Breakfast
* SIMPLICITY : Cherish Normalcy - Sweet Corn Veloute
* HARMONY : Aim for Consensus - Gnocchi in 4 Cheeses
* INDULGENCE : Surprise & Treat Each Other - Lobsters on Beans
* MINCED : Nuptial Amalgamation - Labb Moo ie Sauteed Minced Pork
* HEAT : Learn to Tolerate - Panang Koong ie Spicy Prawns
* IN LAWS : Be Nice - Khai Look Koey ie Son in Law Eggs
* PLACATION : Soothing is Art - Classic Tao Soun ie Mung Beans in Coconut Cream
* SWEETNESS : Will Always Win - Pavlova

It was fun, it was memorable, and it was educational, for me esepcially as I realize I am not practising what I preach!

NEW ENGLAND CLAM BAKE

2011-09-03T16:27:00.001+08:00

See how red the shells turn after the lobsters are boiled? This is a classic Maine lobster presentation. A New England Clam Bake has its regimen, too. If I remember correctly, the following is de rigueur.

* build an open fire preferrably from dry drift wood
* use a clean oil drum that is not rusty as cooking utensil to steam
* pick up sea weed next to the shore, ones that are under water, for layering
* lobsters on first, after the first thick layer of seaweed
* next comes the corn-on-the-cob, plus another layer of seaweed
* the clams are always at the top
* Cherrystones only and never Little Necks ... please
* lots of drawn butter, possibly lemon wedges, nothing else

When it is time we sit on the rough shores, by the rocks, and around the drum so we can sniff the intoxicating aroma of salty sea water, seaweeds, and steamed shellfish. We use our hands, through and through, no need for utensils. All shells are to be thrown right back into the sea, seagulls from above and crabs from below will take care of the rest. No napkins either, we wash our hands, our mouths with sea water ... in total bliss complete with a huge grin, totally gratified taste buds and a distended tummy.

I miss all of this so very, very much!

BOOTHBAY BREAKFAST

2011-09-03T15:57:00.001+08:00

The lobsters in Maine do taste different. We can buy these, live, in certain wet markets in Hong Kong but somehow they do not taste the same as they do in Maine. Hey, Maine lobsters do not even taste the same once they hit California so why should they taste the same when they are another 9,000 miles further west, in Hong Kong? This is not 'when in Rome do what the Romans do' as no respectable Down East ladies or gentlemen would have a Lobster Roll for breakfast. This is what the vulgar, unabashed and greedy nomads under the necessary but nonetheless annoying umbrella of 'Summer Tourists' do. Yes, guilty as charged, they are talking about me. The owner of this cafe knew I am a Cochrane boy from years back, a well known family in the Harbor, and specifically asked the kitchen to prepare this for me. It was not even 9am yet. As the expression goes ... I thought I died and went to Heaven, when I took that first succulent and flavorful bite. Indeed, I was. Thank you Boothday, for such a lovely treat!

PADDLE BOARDING

2011-09-03T15:40:00.002+08:00

How cool is this? The picture was taken in Maine, at Boothbay Harbor, where I attended the wedding of my 'Sister' from an all American family I grew up with while at Tufts. The Cochrane family was assigned as my Host Family in 1968 when I was a Freshman, their home was in Reading and their weekends were mostly spent in Maine. During my formidable years in college I learned, through the Cochranes, an enormous amount about life in America, about New England, about being a Bostonian, about the Down East subculture in Maine and above all, about living the values of a decent human being ... whether one is American or Chinese. The Senior Cochranes I address as Mom & Dad, and their children my two younger brothers, and my sister. We have kept in touch 43 years hence, and my American siblings became surrogate parents for Terri & Jess, while they were at Tufts. It was a full circle and to me, the Cochranes are the walking definition of my 'closest family in America'.

Back to the subject matter ... it was a pristine morning with sunshine, moderate temperature and the calmest waters in the Harbor when I saw these folks paddling leisurely past. I am told as a sport it is tougher than it looks, which I am sure it is. I am not sure if something like this will take off here, in Hong Kong? I am not talking about the surroundings, not the quality of the water, not even the availability of equipment but rather than 'mood'. One needs the relaxed, sans stress, hassle free, the 'not a care about the rest of the world' attitude to be able to enjoy this kind of sport, don't you think?

HUMAN NATURE

2011-09-01T15:39:00.001+08:00

The Government's decision to give every PR in Hong Kong $6,000 has opened up a huge can of worms, the gory details we read almost daily in the media. It is a solemn, albeit sometimes amusing, sideshow of human nature. We are human beings, are we not, so displaying our nature comes with the territory, right? Damn right!

We hear a mixed bag of responses such as; .. 'I will definitely spend it, we are supposed to, for the sake of the economy, right' .. 'I will save it for rainy days, since I never know how much longer I can keep my job given the dire state of the economy' .. 'I will buy that ring my husband refused me' .. 'This can contribute to my savings for the wedding' .. 'It comes just in time for the opening of a new school term since books, stationery, uniform are such a huge expense, we have 3 kids' .. 'At 80 of course I want the $ now, how do I know if I am still alive if I wait' ....... the list is endless, and the voices are representative of the Hong Kong matrix, each and everyone of them contributed to the success of this town.

Then again we have those who emigrated, the born again 'foreign citizens' whom our Motherland does not recognize, who flooded the phone lines with enquiries on entitlement, who do not want to be 'left out' which to a Hong Kong Belonger is the worst case scenario. Having disowned our little island from the 1967 riots, the 1984 signing, the pre-1997 tremors etc without ever looking back, some would even return, for the first time after literally decades, to stake their claims. How the economics work is simply baffling to me! One spends $6,000+ on airfare, sitting upright in Y-class (I guess C-class seems foolish here) just so one can renew one's HKID and then collect $6,000? Hello?

The 'Oscar of Creative Justification' has to go to, sadly, the following ex-Hong Kong Belonger, now a proud naturalized citizen from nether-nether land. I quote, in verbatim ' .... the only reason I want to come back is not about the $, it is to prove the HKSAR Government is stupid, to allow me to renew my HKID after 20 years of absence (a more appropriate description here is .... arrogant and singularly unjustifiable aggressive indifference) and then let me collect the $ ... they are just stupid, and I now have proof!' We were at the same lunch table when this proclamation was made, I was glad I did not eat much dim-sum lest my sudden puking could have been embarrassing.

Seriously, can you imagine? Is this the best Hong Kong can produce, is this human nature at large or is it just a pitiful statement from an even more pitiful individual? I continue to be amazed!

CRABS, ANYONE?

2011-09-01T13:41:00.002+08:00

Golden Pond is a recent discovery that has brought nothing less than super joy to me, and my circle of 'crab craze' foodie pals. I was told the owner is a big time seafood wholesaler who brings fresh goodies to us lucky souls in a fashion that is unique. Located on a quaint street with loads more character than fancy outlets else where in town, Golden Pond's unassuming store front is a perfect prelude to surprises galore once you are inside. Equipped with simple tables, maximum cover is 14 inside plus 2 alfesco table x 4 each outside. The best news is you literally can park in front, at almost no risk of tickets.

The menu is simple; a delicious assortment of steamed or poached crabs, served cold with creative vinegar based dips. For instance; Spanner Crabs, Snow or Crystal Crabs, Alaskan King Crab, French Crabs that are called 'Bread or Bun' Crabs here, Canadian Dungenese Crabs, local Flower Crabs, Filipino Caracha Crabs .... plus South China Sea Lobsters or rather Crayfish without the claws, Giant Wee-Wee Prawns, South African Abalone and last but certainly not the least, wonderful Canadian Whelks.

In addition there are 3 'must try' items ... (1) the 'E-Mein' used as base for the set meals (2) the Toasted Garlic Bread that rivals any garlic bread anywhere in town, and (3) top value chicken soups. There is a small wine list, but my vote definitely goes to the Belgium beers in the fridge. BTW you can forget the sea cucumber, it is the worst dish. Try the Lobsters on E-Mein for $68, it is the proverbial 'steal'. Other prices are reasonable, the crabs are not cheap but they are excellent value for money. You must book ahead, especailly in the evenings. I suggest you try lunch first, to learn how to get there, to study the menu, to try a few items with less people around you .... then pick your favorites, organize dinner with 4-6 like minded foodies and, indulge with 'No Reservations' per Anthony Bourdain.

Golden Pond offers delivery service too, minimum $500 on HK Island and $1000 if you order from Kowloon. Call now!

WHERE HAS ALL THE TIME GONE?

2011-09-01T11:28:00.002+08:00

This was taken in 1952, almost 60 years or a whole generation ago, with my parents. I was not quite 3. Dad passed away 10 years ago and Mom turned 90. I just completed half of my 62nd year on earth, and became a grandfather of twins. Everytime I look back on what has passed, I get melancholy. I begin to wonder if I had lived the life I wanted and for that matter, what exactly did I (and do I) want, to which I cannot provide a satisfactory answer. If I have not lived the life I wanted, what can I do about it now as I approach the 'sunset phase' of my being .... at the speed of sound .... if the past 3 retired years were any guide. I am absolutely certain I am not the only person at my age who would ask these neither-here-nor-there questions, but I did anyway. I am lost!

My last blog was in May, after my Singapore & Johore sojourn. I was lazy, it is a bad trait I must correct, and I will, right now.

PROFESSIONALISM

2011-05-14T23:40:00.005+08:00

One observation that cuts through many of the street food hawkers I met, be in it Singapore or Bangkok or Hong Kong, or Taipei or any other Asian locations, is their attitude to work. Look at these chappati ladies at the Tanjong Pagar station, it must be hot but obviously it does not bother them. There is a sense of calmness, of containment, and of reward which to me are key pillars to build professionalism. I may be naive as they must not be making that much money and it is probably their only means of livelihood so not too much of a choice here. That said, one just cannot 'fake' happiness at work. There are just too many out there who, in a million years, would not be able to match the work ethics of these folks. Their pride, their cheerfulness, their willingness to engage customers despite the insignificance of their products are exemplary, even infectious as I watch them go through their paces. I am not 100% sure why I want to post this blog, I only know that I want this picture in my collection for prosperity. Indeed they are the walking definition of my advocacy in all of my 36-years in the work force. Well done, ladies!

PURVIS STREET

2011-05-14T16:51:00.002+08:00

Next to Seah Street is Purvis Street which offers even more eating opportunities. Without question the 'king pin' is Gunther's ... Singapore's #1 contemporary restaurant under Chef Hubrechsen Gunther of Les Amis fame. This extremely talented but unassuming young chef from Europe has single handedly redefined top end dining in the city state. He is easily at par with any fine dining chef in Hong Kong, in my view. I especially like Gunther's set lunches which are always full of surprises and delightful. Top end eatries are not on my agenda this visit so I passed.

Next to Gunther's is Girabaldi where I only had drinks previously. I found the bar extremely pleasant, and the drinks menu avant garde. I also checked their menu but my sources said the food is authentic and creative.

Further down the road there are more places including an obviously old chicken rice joint with big Chinese characters 'Chicken Rice' printed in blood red, the name is Oi Kwan or Chou Kwan, something like that. It might be worth a try lah, just to see how and why it survives even though I seldom see customers there. There is also a Thai Bistro, whatever that means, and a local pastry shop. If you are gamed, try the Hai Ji Tea Restaurant. Its claim to fame is they serve genuine Hainanese grub, all cooked and served by Hainanese or descendants of Hainanese. The debate as to whether Hainan Chicken Rice actually came from Hainan Island, or is it the genius of a Singaporean chef is still alive but ask the folks here, there is no doubt whatsoever it is indigenous Hainanese. That said, the 'must order item' is not chicken but the Lamb Soup. The lamb is slow cooked, with juicy and flavorful meat almost off the bone, and the soup is beautifully strong with ginger, fungus, tofu skin, and water chestnuts in it. Too bad winters do not exist here as this is what our older generation labels 'stomach warming cuisine'. As to why it is always so noisy at Hai Ji, I was told it is only Hainanese dialect in play.

Come to Purvis in the morning and I bet you can have breakfast, lunch, tea, drinks and dinner all in one day on this boulevard in downtown Singapore. I shall do that, some day.

SEAH STREET

2011-05-14T16:15:00.003+08:00

If you drive up Beach Road, in front of the Raffles Hotel, to the direction of Nicoll Highway there are two 'food streets' on your left. Seah Street is the first and Purvis is next. The two dominant shops on Seah are ; Swee Kee and New Swee Kee, both claim leadership in Hainan Chicken Rice. In order to substantiate my research on this visit I tried both. Locals told me Swee Kee has gone off the map lately and I can see why, even though at lunch it is always full from the office crowd. New Swee Kee is indeed better but neither can challeng the 'Mother of Chicken Rice' Boon Tong Kee. If you only have time for one, it would be BTK per my blog entry.

CHIU CHOW COMFORT FOOD

2011-05-14T16:06:00.001+08:00

Singapore has a lot of Chiu Chow traditions in her cooking and fish soup, fish ball noodles, fish congee are among the most popular street eats. I can never pass one of these joints without stopping for a taste break. It is simple ingredients prepared in the simplest manner. Walking past the Lavender Street Food Court I asked for the most popular one and was pointed to Mr Chew's who I was able to learn from.

Everything revolves around the soup base, he told me, which is stock from a concoction of fish heads, tails, fins after being filleted. Next to this thick stock is a pot of boiling 'something' to dilute the base, which I suspect has MSG in it. I ordered the Red Snapper soup for S$6 (ordinary fish is S$4 only) and while the fillets were being poached he prepped the bowl with soya sauce, sesame oil, fish sauce, julienne of Chinese lettuce, finely chopped Chinese parsley stalks ie 2 to 3 inches from the roots which carry the most flavor per my Thai Wandee training, crispy fried garlic slices and sweet preserved turnip cubes. In a separate saucepan the poached snapper fillets are brought to a boil one last time in the diluted stock, before pouring the whole lot into the bowl. Adding to it a sprinkle of freshly chopped scallions and Chinese parsley leaves another creation is ready, preferrably tongue burning hot.

Comfort food par excellence, quite doable at home too. Try it!

CHINA INVADES!

2011-05-14T02:21:00.002+08:00

With Chinese immigrants increasing in folds there is a mushroom effect on new eateries. They cater to the newly minted permanent residents or citizens on the one hand, and romance the old inhabitants on the other. Peking, Shanghai, Hunan, Szechuen, Tianjian and even Gansu or Mongolian ... you name it, you see it. Hot Pot is a big thing becasue it does not require cooking so they are all over the place, copying and 'one-ups' each other in utter confusion. It seems 3 cuisines are not in the fray; Hokkien cum Chiu Chow which are indigenous and, of course, Cantonese which Singapore thinks she already has, but really not as it is not quite the same, at least not yet.

As expected this scene is not widely supported by everyone. We passed by this junction and the taxi driver said, without prompting ' .... do not patronize these places, they offer higher rent to kick out decent restaurants run by Singaporeans who have been around for a long time ... my wife booked there once, I hated it, not our kind of food and far too expensive so I scolded her, told her never to do that again ....'

You see, if a simple meal of anything on the street seldom costs more than S$5 it will be an uphill battle all the way, particularly if your 'Joe on the street' would rant and rave like this.

WHY CAN'T WE HAVE THAT?

2011-05-14T01:53:00.003+08:00

When Hong Kong talks about tourism there are only 2 activities; shopping and eating. It seems we can only offer shopping, shopping, more shopping and interspaced with eating, period. We have lost the title of shopping capital in Asia, killed by we-all-know-what, while eating hangs on perilously. A picture is worth a thousand words, remember al fresco dining? Where in Hong Kong can you find a quaint street like this one in Singapore. They have hundreds more, everywhere. I do not think our bureaucrats appreciate what al fresco means, let alone what it offers tourism and local patronage. They penalize smokers, control pollution with drastic measures and then they chase out al fresco establishments. Now, you think this is funny, no it is not, in fact it is tragic.

Singaporeans have embraced al fresco as a key part of their life style, why can't we do that? The Asian Food Channel or AFC, arguably one of the most watched reality shows in the region, picked Singapore as its hub, generating much hype and commercial activities. Their home at Orchard Central (181 Orchard Road) is dynamic, interactive, cool and it hums with foodie of all nationalities, why can't we do that? Singapore has succeeded in a strategy to own the matrix where east does meet west across a wide spectrum of cuisines, why can't we do that? In addition to Chinese, Malay & Indian food via her cultural divide she has gradually become a non-Asian hub as well, why can't we do that? Ask any Singaporean what they love in Hong Kong the standard, and regrettably only answer is : dim sum & wanton noodles. Old news, in fact, ancient news we still lean on. Why can't we go beyond old glory, tired laurels and stale ideas?

'Asia's World City', right? It is a pity we have lost not the ability, but the will to compete since we returned to the womb, so to speak.

I breathe sorrow as I envy this beautiful al fresco dining street behind Boat Quay.

SOTA

2011-05-12T22:13:00.001+08:00

This is Singapore's 'School of The Art' or SOTA for short, which is located on a plot on Orchard Road, across the street from the SMU or Singapore Management University which occupies an even larger plot. This is what the Singapore government can do where ours cannot, that is, govern the developers. A prized real estate like this in Hong Kong would never be 'wasted' on eduaction, depsite all the plattitudes our bureau chiefs often mumble.

The teacher obviously did not want to let the blue sky go to waste and chose to hold the class outdoors. right at the entrance in fact. I walked by, could not resist the picture opportunity and almost created a commotion. See the few kids waving at me? Before I was able to click the next one they all stood up, waved and clapped. Tourists on the path applauded them back, cheers went off, and it was an excellent lesson in human communications. Fun stuff!

BAK KUT TEH

2011-05-12T21:01:00.002+08:00

Bak Kut Teh (BKT) literally means Pork Rib Tea in Hokkien dialect. Years ago a Malaysian Chinese friend told me it was a dish for the less well to do who could not afford the nice cuts of pork. Instead they buy ribs with morsels still on the bones, and pour boiling tea over them to yield flavor. Later on Chinese herbs, condiments and loads of garlic are added to eventually get the unique taste today. Choice meaty ribs have replaced their bony predecessors. I cannot vouch for the authenticity of this story but I like to document it anyway for this blog.

A standard BKT meal is comprised of meaty ribs in a flavorful pork broth lined with a strong white pepper accent, stewed peanuts, deep fried fritters, vegetables, dark soya sauce with chilis and the ritual fresh lime. On Balestier Road there are quite a few BKT outlets, across the street from the Shaw Plaza. 'Founders Rou Gu Cha Cafeteria' has the longest queues for lunch, dinner and 'sui yeh' or late supper. Their hours are noon to 2pm, then 6pm to 230am (!!) and closed on Tuesdays. I thought I would beat the dinner crowd by showing up at 10pm. Well, I was 5th on the queue but counted my blessing as I could be 15th if I showed up an hour earlier, I was told. No menu, you tell the staff what you want while you wait, standing of course, you sit down when called, and the set meal follows. I am not comfortable with the modus operandi as it is assembly line service. When the set finally came I had an inkling these folks might have lost touch with foodies. I was not wrong, the taste was there but unimpressive, it was mediocre production line taste at best. The meat was chewy, not the best cut and cooked to death probably from mass production. The broth did not 'knock me' as it tasted diluted. The peanuts were under stewed, hardly seasoned, and with no flavor. The vegetables were over cooked, the fritters soggy from sitting around humidity, the lime jucie came in a plastic, OMG, and not freshly squeezed. The coup de grace and fatal flaw, the chilis in the soya sauce were already limp, soaked too long, losing both texture and strength. Did I miss anything? It is a clear case of failure brought on by success. Business becomes so good they chose the easy way out, institutionalizing food preparation and quality first and secondly, service delivery.

You see I cheated here. I did my home work the evening before and tried another shop further up the road, Balestier BKT. I wanted to check what the 2nd & 3rd runners-up can do, verses the market leader. I liked what I had here more, much more. There was no queue, no hype, no attitude but just a quiet delivery of what I considered a tastier, more original, but most importantly a more personal bowl of BKT .... al fresco .... with the cool evening breeze blowing off my sweat from the white peppery hot soup, and the crispy red chili. I loved every bite and every spoonful, it could only be made in heaven.

# Founders NKT @ 347 Balestier Road .... 4 out of 10
# Balestier BKT @ 365 or 355 on the same side of the road .... 8 out of 10

FUSION OR CONFUSION?

2011-05-12T10:43:00.001+08:00

This establishment is at the Raffles City complex facing the Raffles Hotel. The name is a piece of art, one for the book of records. It says in block capital ... O'Gambinos, Irish Italian Bistro Bar. What a mouthful! Anyone with a brain, eyes and a mouth would ask : so is it Irish or is it Italian, and, is it a bistro or a bar? The likely answer is 'we are all of the above' and the next question will then be, so what do you serve? I have never been comfortable with the concept of fusion cooking and there is a thin line over which one gets confusion, as in the naming of this venue. I made a mental note to try it next time. Ah So Des Ga .... perhaps this is a marketing ploy to get people in?

WANTON NOODLES

2011-05-11T20:52:00.005+08:00

Singapore tried, and Malaysia tried, but let us face it, they are getting nowhere. The crown is glued on Hong Kong, we win hands down, the rest of the world can eat our dust. I am told this special brand from Pontian in Malaysia is extremly successful, 'selling thousands' at home. As the Chinese proverb goes 'only a powerful dragon would cross the river' or in this case, the Singapore Straits. I kept seeing their outlets, all quite small, and that gave me no choice but to do the ultimate ... I sacrificed my diet, with your best interests at heart, of course.

Well, the verdict is, do not waste your time unless you are desperate. The noodles are, possibly, their only saving grace. They claim the noodles will never become soggy, even if you take away since this is 'gan lo' or 'dried without soup'. Yes, it offers texture but is it ever oily! The wantons are minute, they are served (1) crispy deep fried on the noodles and (2) hopelessly wet in a separate bowl of high soup .... both are not up to par, with hardly any ingredients in them. As for the 'char-sui' they really should call it something else. I hate to disappoint and I do not mean to hurt their business, but this is the kind of honesty I practise when I am on my sojourns. Sorry!

TANJONG PAGAR STATION

2011-05-11T20:14:00.002+08:00

This is the oldest train station where services to all locations in Malaysia would commence. It is also the terminus for southbound routes from all points Asia, including the Eastern & Oriental Express. It is like Singapore's answer to the terminus in Istanbul by the Bosphorus.

Comes July she will gracefully retire into the sunset as part of Singapore's history. Imagine the traffic and personalities that must have appeared through the years, when the train was the main mode of transport. I am taking the train from here to Johor Bahru tomorrow, earning my place as one of the last passengers. The journey may only take a little over an hour, with a reserved seat that sells for S$13 but I am sure the sentimental value will be priceless. Luckily she will not be demolished, I am told. We should still be able to see her facade, even though the tracks will be removed to make way for, you guessed it, the real estate folks.

A couple of anecdotes : it is S$ 0.20 if you need to use the toilets, the keeper must be 80-90 but no man or woman escapes his watchful eyes. Inside the Food Court a matronly looking Malay lady in her hijab makes the best chappati I ever tasted. Nothing would beat a couple of them, dipped in keema ie plain curry sauce, with fresh cucumbers and cherry tomatoes before you board.

There is time yet, until July. I saw a few locals taking pictures for the history book already. If you are in town go find the station, try lunch or even a snack chappati prepared by this lady. She is at the back restaurant next to the arrival tracks, by the exit into the car park. You will not regret it!

POLITICS

2011-05-11T20:06:00.003+08:00

Singapore was undergoing a reality check the past few days. While the ruling party PAP (People's Action Party) enjoyed a decisive win of 81 out of 87 seats in Parliament, the demise of two senior civil servants losing to the minority opposition was a hard drama for the country to witness, judging from media reports. George Yeo, the incumbent Foreign Minister, a super star with a super track record in government, is one of them. Failed to win in the General Election he has no choice but to leave his job. The picture shows him closing a press conference. His gracious acceptance of political realities apparently earned him even more respect. I cannot help but relate this episode of reality TV to what we have at home, with this monster called the 'Accountability System'.

Firstly, we have yet to claim political maturity in our politicians, both elected and appointed. Secondly, the political appointees who head bureaus are at best, freshmen in politics. If I want to be kind, I will say 'sometimes naive' vs 'often naive'. None of them is elected and if they screwed up, all they need is to mumble an apology, bow deeply, and all wrongs are righted. I wonder if the impending departure of George Yeo, who is head over heel better than anyone of ours, individually or even collectively, has caused them to reflect.

I remember the sage advice of a fellow Council member at the HKCAA ... 'Fit for Purpose'. Our Lower Albert Road elites, soon to get the grand harbor view, are AOs trained to administer, not to manage, let alone govern. It is paramount any aspiring CE of the HKSAR must understand this, lest it will be more of the same. Bad appointments, bad ideas, bad execution, bad press which can only lead to the loss of trust, and the mandate to govern. 'Fit For Purpose'? Perhaps skilled surgeons should not run hospitals, master chefs should not run restaurants, good teachers should not run schools and if this holds true, let the best civil servants run the machinery that makes our town work, steer them clear from politics. It would never work as they are not cut out for it.

MOTHER OF CHICKEN RICE

2011-05-10T21:07:00.003+08:00

Ask 100 people in Hong Kong where is his favorite Wanton Noodles and you will get 100 answers. Do the same with Chicken Rice in Singapore you might get 150 if not more answers. Why? Singapore foodies usually have more than one favorite, that is why, and why not? That said, Boon Tong Kee (or Mun Tung Kee to us Cantonese) seems to have secured the top slot. Like life itself, nothing is permanent so Boon Tong Kee is enjoying market leadership, for now. Swee Kee, among others, held that title some years ago but is no longer a competitor and this is how it goes. One cannot possibly miss this landmark as the building covers an entire block on Balestier Road, and their huge signage is dramatic.

I paid my respect yesterday at 3pm, when the lunch crowd was just beginning to thin out. My conclusion is, they deserve it. I also discovered after the pilgrimage that what makes Chicken Rice a national dish here is not so much the chicken, but a joint effort of the rice, the skin, and lastly the layer of jelly between the meat and the skin. I learned to poach a chicken Chinese style and realize the magic of this jelly, which generates the taste foodies keep coming back for. Chicken skin is the 'anti-christ' in a dietitian's dictionary but imagine leaving the skin on the plate? Please do not insult the chef, and embarrass yourself. The rice at Boon Tong Kee is, to me, the ultimate winner. I am not certain but if I were asked to call it I would say it is the smallest and finest basmati grains, cooked flawlessly in the most flavorful stock. It is dry, super fluffy and taste dominates, with not a trace of chicken fat. Lastly, credit should also go to their house sauces ie the classic chili & dark soya complements. The damage was S$18 or $100 for a dish of chicken, a bowl of rice, a vegetarian spring roll, a shrimp toast (amazingly greaseless as well) and an iced barley water. WOW! As hungry foodies continue to file in, almost 4pm by now, I was reborned. Have you ever had Hainan Chicken Rice for high tea? Try Mun Tung Kee on Balestier!

LONE RANGER SOJOURNS

2011-05-10T09:10:00.007+08:00

Since retirement I have come to enjoy what I call my 'Lone Ranger Sojourns' which I try to do every 3-4 months. The criteria that qualify these trips are; I travel alone, to less popular 2nd or even 3rd tier cities, in Asia predominantly and not China, buy the cheapest seats on any airline, minimum packing, stay in budget hotels that offer the basics, no fancy or Michelin meals, mass market street foods all the way, find out what the locals eat, document how they prepare their food, befriend street cooks if possible, learn from them, take lots of notes and photographs, walk instead of taking transportation whenever I can ..... I did a lot of this during my 6-weeks at Wandee in Bangkok, and later in Kaoshiung. I am determined to keep these sojourns alive, to complement my decade long cooking school dreams.

I am transiting Singapore now, on my way to Johor Bahru, a seaside town a stone throw from Singapore which I wanted to visit for years, but failed. Swire Travel set me up at this brand new IBIS hotel on Balestier Road near Novena. It was a S$22 ride from Changyi Airport, the same distance as going into the CBD Orchard Road area. For S$168 I get a comfortable room, with breakfast thrown in. No tooth brushes, Q-tip or body cream though. The Novena MRT station is only 8-minutes away, from where you have access to anywhere in the city state. Balestier is Singapore's equivalent to Morrison Hill Road, with shops after shops of lighting fixture. To me the main attraction is the abundance of local eateries nearby, predominantly Bak Kut Teh, Hainan Chicken Rice and Nasi outlets which I intend to explore.

IBIS Singapore Novena : 6 Irrawaddy Road @ www.ibishotel/7451

BUGS ANYONE?

2011-05-10T08:33:00.003+08:00

Yes, I ordered this when we were in Panyu with Dora's tutors from school for a weekend frolic. With poetic license these babies are officially called 'Dragon Fleas' but on the street it is 'Water Cockroaches' because they do like alike and it does not get any more descriptive. Believe it or not 50+ years ago when I was in primary school they were a popular snack, along with cicadas and silk worms. I remember when Dragon Fleas were in season (summer months I think) my sister and I would catch them in the garden at our old home, at night. All we needed was a pail of water, put under any street light, and Dragon Flies would literally dive into them. Once we collected enough our cook would rinse and deep fried them in hot oil. Voila! My late father used to nibble on them, like peanuts. It took skills to eat them. You open the hard outer shells first like a set of doors, then carefully tear off the beautifully flimsy layer inside that looks like dragonfly wings, before you get to what is essentially the stomach, which you suck out. There is a unique taste, one that jolts back memory of my childhood as soon as it hits my tougue. At this famous Panyu seafood restaurant in Guangdong Province they were fried with garlic, chili and even garnished with cilandro. This little heap was about HK$70 or almost US$10 and they were good, even though I was the only one indulging. Bugs, anyone?

PAVLOVA

2011-05-09T23:05:00.002+08:00

Speaking of desserts this time the Aussies get the applause. If the Red Wine Poached Pear is like a subtle declaration of love on the Left & Right Banks of the Seine, the Pavlova is like a vibrant show of vitality and affection, the Aussie way, on the beaches of Bondi and Manley. I love serving them, next to the pears.

Making the meringue is central to the success of any Pavlova, once this is mastered variations of the theme are unlimited, as far as your creativity allows. Trial and error is de rigueur here, you must keep making them in order to get the egg white to the right 'peak'. Even more importantly you need to rein in your oven for her best behavior. A well cooked crust, not necessarily crispy, with a marshmallow texture in the center is easier said than done but as long as you keep at it, you will get your own version right. You can make it like a layered cake, or as small sandwiches, or a giant version as shown. The Aussie use mixed fruits as topping, often with passion fruit as the sauce which works. I like to use mangoes, Indian mangoes are the best. I sprinkle cocoa powder on top, and I add dark chocolate chunks in the meringue for the 'chocophiles' in my dinner parties. I can guarantee the 'oohs and aahs' as soon as the Pavlova is brought to the table. One last thing, do not believe for a moment all the 'I am really too full for dessert' claims. They are nothing but polite lies, especially from your first time guests. Their masks will come off after the first serving, and unabashed claims follow as to who will get the last piece. Trust me, I am right on this so my advice is, present the big ones ... they are plate licking good!

LCB POACHED PEAR

2011-05-09T22:27:00.002+08:00

This is one of the first classic desserts taught at Le Cordon Bleu and it remains one of my top favorites, which many of our dinner guests agree. The pears should be just right ie not too ripe but certainly not rock hard. They are to be poached in 'inexpensive red wines' and adding to the liquid; sugar, lemon zest, orange peels, cinnamon sticks, vanilla essence. Bring to a quick boil, return to simmer, and poach until you can push a metal pin right through the pears. Poach 5-6 at a time but you must pay attention to these delicate babies by turning them so everyone gets even soaking time in that heavenly liquid. The entire kitchen is filled with the sweet aroma of cooked fruit in condiments. I like to make them a day earlier and leave them in the fridge overnight to achieve that incredibly sexy dark velvet effect. Serve with Chantilly cream ie fresh cream whipped with confectionery or icing sugar, and a twig of mint. It is a time honored French creation and what a romantic finale to a meal, delish!

AS THE WORLD TURNS

2011-05-09T22:06:00.003+08:00

Regardless of what you think of the British royals, or for that matter any monarchy, the recent royal wedding made it to the top of the 'most watched' media event again. Amidst the pomp and circumstance in which the Brits are second to none, I cannot help but feel a bit sad. No, it is not about the obviously happy and deeply in love couple but for that 'numero uno' family. Those of us who are old enough must all remember watching Diana married Charles, unfortunately it was down hill since their procession paraded the streets of London. If the Late Princess were alive, I wonder what she would be thinking on this occasion.

'The wedding united Britain, today everyone is a Royalist .... ' it was reported on BBC. A few days later the world turned, this time to America when Osama Bin Laden was killed by a Navy Seal assault team in a foreign land. People, initally led by young partying types, were out en masse on the streets in NYC & DC in the middle of the night, to celebrate the vindication of 911. 'Justice is Done!' .... as reported in all major American network but, has it really?

I am a retired nobody and who am I to preach right or wrong. I just made a mental note on how coincidental these two events happened in such close sequence, almost one after the other, and how they managed to rally two leading nations, despite the nature being at poles. I guess this is the world we live in, and these are just reality shows with dream ratings!

BOULLAIBAISE @ TKT

2011-05-09T21:27:00.001+08:00

I am not big on fusion anything as I am worried about my dismal knowlege in mixing flavors, which could well result in murdering a dish. With that as an opener I did play around with this simple soup at a recent dinner party and it was well received, so I call it Boullaibaise @ TKT ie Test Kitchen @ Tang.

Basically it is a symphony of the freshest possible catch, poached in a home made fish stock, and served in a broth of diluted bonito concentrate (in any Japanese section of a supermarket) over fresh orba leaves. I had a large tiger prawn, an equally large Hokkaido scallop, plus a couple of pieces of snapper and squid, on a bed of Little Neck Clams. To garnish I used julienne of Japanese leek marinated in rice wine vinegar and mirin, plus lumpfish roe or ikura for color effect. I also sprinkled smoked bacon chips to counter the flavor. There are 2 key notes here; the fresh seafood must be lightly poached, to avoid overcooking, to retain maximum freshness and secondly, the broth must be screaming hot, at maximum boiling point when it is ladled over the ingredients in order to release the uniqueness of the orba leaves. The tango between the orba and bonito flavors is magic to the taste bud. Do try this very simple, but gratifying 'comfort recipe' at home. I have yet to serve this to a Japanese pal, I like to think he might approve.

WHAT'S FOR LUNCH?

2011-04-18T06:40:00.001+08:00

While we had several sumptuous meals at star-rated Michelin restaurants on this trip, lunches are mostly simple, but nonetheless elegant and highly gratifying at local eateries. At Annecy I had an unforgettable tray of charcuterie and at Megeve, there is this up-market ... 'almost snobbish' ... fromagerie that also serves lunch. This Belgian endive salad with crumbled blue cheese is one of the best I ever had. The fresh crispness of the vegetable, tossed with the salty-sweetness of this rather unique local cheese, has created a lingering taste that keeps coming back, even as I write about it now, at home.

PHILIPPE ROCHAT 2-STAR MICHELIN

2011-04-17T18:24:00.004+08:00

Crissier is located in the suburb of Lausanne, in what can be best described as an unassuming residential neighborhood, on a knoll. It is a 10-minute ride from the Lausanne train station, after a short run on a highway. One must wonder why this location? Apparently Chef Rochat bought the restaurant some years ago and bulit his reputation from here since. Officially it is Restaurant De L'Hotel De Ville 1023 Crisssier, I guess everyone in the town would know where it is.

Crackers with duck liver & fig vinegar

Fine veloute of Granny Smith apples & imperial Osietra caviar

Cardoons from Crissier with Triscatin black truffles

Nomandy scallop in its shell on Rose champagne

Steamed sole from Croisic with Menton lemon

Langoustine from Shetland Islands in reduction of rye & curry Madras

Cutlet of milk fed lamb from the Pyrenees

Pig's trotter from Jura with Madeira glaze

Selection of fresh & matured cheeses

Marbre of coffee Arabica & Guanaja chocolate

Puff pastry with caramalized pineapples & Charrette rum

Macaroons, fruit jelly & finest chocolates

HI-END SWISS TRAINS

2011-04-17T13:50:00.000+08:00

I have always loved travelling on trains, but this particular ride from Geneva to Lausanne, on the Swiss rail system was one for the history books. We were on our way for dinner at Phillipe Rochat in Crissier, a suburb of Lausanne and decided on First Class to complement the 3-Michelin Stars at Rochat. Take a look! We were the only passengers on that carriage, in a setting that felt more like a cruise yacht. It was not exactly a bargain though, where the Swiss Franc runs supreme. A round trip ticket, 30-minutes of luxurious serenity each way, was HK$1640 or US$220 .... amazing, now we know what 'living the Swiss lifestyle' means.

A TRIPLET CARRIER

2011-04-17T13:30:00.001+08:00

Being recently minted grandparents of twins, Dora and I are particularly sensitive to anything that has the slightest resemblance to anything to do with babies. Here is one, a triplet carrier, in the middle of a ski resort. I guess they mean it when they say 'we start them young'. This shot of the precious trio on main street Chamonix is just priceless.

FRIENDSHIP

2011-04-17T12:53:00.000+08:00

This is one of my favorite pictures from the trip, taken on the bridge that links the train station to the town of Charmonix. 4 elderly gentlemen from Japan, well ... silver strands under their ski caps and they spoke Japanese ... who are obviously friends. I watched them on the train, comparing notes on their tourist maps using bifocals, sharing pictures of Mont Blanc, and enjoying each other's jokes and laughters. They must also visit ramen shops, robatayaki joints and local watering holes at home together. Their closeness is unmistaken, it exudes fraternity and warmth. Life does not get any better for these folks, they are truly blessed, with friendship that can be tested by travelling together. Omedetou!

THE GLACIER

2011-04-10T17:17:00.003+08:00

This is the legendary Glacier! If you enlarge the pictute and look closely, those little black dots are in fact teams of skiers, led by local guides in yellow flourescent jackets. These guides are sought after, and have to be booked 24 hours in advance. On the way up a cool looking group of young British skiers, complete with colorful fancy gears and Bollie shades were in front of us at the turnstile. I overheard the following funny exchange. 'Where is your guide?' 'No, we do not have one, we do not need a guide.' 'You cannot go up without a guide, and it is too late in the day now.' 'Why? We are very good skiers!' 'Sorry, no one is very good on this Glacier. Get a guide and come back tomorrow. Next, please?'

THERE SHE IS .....

2011-04-10T16:56:00.003+08:00

I took many pictures of the Old Lady but this is the one I like best. All 4000 metres of her, standing tall .... From the terminus of the telecarbine skiers can walk down a precarious, icy path, and start a 2-hour ski along the glacier which is receding at alarming speed (9cm per annum if I remember correctly) due to global warming. We actually walked under the glacier, the thickest part is over 120 metres. It was truly amazing!

MONT BLANC

2011-04-10T16:36:00.005+08:00

We finally had our close encounter with 'Her Majesty' the grand old lady, Mont Blanc, on a side trip we made to Charmonix from Megeve. We were extremely lucky to actually had an entire week of good weather, including blue skies that matched what I thought was the bluest of skies when I was at Le Cordon Bleu in Sydney. Yes, it was cold, but when we were in the sun, and despite the altitude, one felt warm ... closer to the heat source, I guess. The cable car or 'telecarbine' took us to Aiguille du Midi, the highest point for mundane tourists like us. Standing at this vantage point what absolutely amazed me was a couple of eagles hovering effortlessly at that height, another example how the wonders of nature win over the smallness of human beings. Mont Blanc is another 1000 metres further up, even though it does not look that at all. Now we know why adjectives like; majestic, grand, regal etc are used to describe mountains and ranges. We were in awe, totally mesmerized by her expansiveness and commanding presence. I kept loooking at her, and at every angle I see a differnet perspective. The McCarthys invited us to experience the Alpine Spirit, and this day we spent in Charmonix alone was testimony. It was unforgettable!

SHAME ON ME!

2011-04-08T16:25:00.003+08:00

This was taken at the top of the Megeve ski slopes, while Dora was doing her Shaolin moves. Sheepishly I took a cigar and walked in the opposite direction of the crowd, hoping to enjoy 'an altitude smoke'. I lit it, it was a beautiful draw and the fabulous Cohiba aroma was heaven. Then I looked over the horizon, and this majestic mountain view unfolded. Almost at the same moment there was this jolt of guilt. Why am I doing this when everything around me was so pristine? There was no one around me, no frowning, no dirty looks, no covering the nose or waving the air away ... Then I surprised myself, I took one last draw and I put it out. It seemed to be 'the right thing to do'. If you think this is repentance, please don't! The cigar smoking continued the rest of the trip. I just thought this unique moment of my conscience winning over my indulgence is worth recording, that is all.

QUOTABLE QUOTE

2011-03-08T20:26:00.002+08:00

I ran into this at my "give-me-my-daily-read" moment, I love it, and I must share it.

TIME IS VERY SLOW FOR THOSE WHO WAIT,
VERY FAST FOR THOSE WHO ARE SCARED,
VERY LONG FOR THOSE WHO LAMENT,
VERY SHORT FOR THOSE WHO CELEBRATE,
BUT FOR THOSE WHO LOVE, TIME IS ETERNITY.

Any guess on the author of such sage words, that apply to all of us? William Shakespeare!

SHAOLIN ON MEGEVE

2011-02-25T02:21:00.001+08:00

Our Shaolin Master 'Chan Si-Fu' would be in tears to see one of his prized disciples Dora Tang going through her paces at the top of the Megeve ski resort. We took the telecarbine aka cable car with our hosts to the holding area and since we do not ski, we have the luxury to mosey around. Strange as it may seem, it was the natural thing to do when Dora saw the expansive mountain range on the horizon, against the sugar white snow in the foreground. She practised the '8 Movements' so gracefully it attracted a few bewildered looks. I particularly like her shadow in the photograph. 'What is that crazy Japanese woman doing?' they must have asked. Why? It is because Japanese skiers apparently frequent the Alpine slopes in bigger numbers than Chinese travelers, who prefer sightseeing and shopping. 'Beware of the Chinese though', The Pasha said.

CHARCUTERI

2011-02-24T05:53:00.000+08:00

Without any doubt this is one of my top favorites in the French culinary dictionary. I believe the Romans created this ages ago, preparing meats before refrigeration came on the scene. A lot has happened since and 'charcuterie' now covers a wide array of prepared meats, or 'forcemeat' as it is called, mostly from pork. What I enjoy the most are flavors derived from the process like salt cured, brined, smoked etc which open up one's taste buds. At one of the first demo classes at LCB we were told the 2 key ingredients that bring us taste are; salt & fat. Voila, this is what charcuterie is all about, which explains why I like it so much. A platter of ham, bacon, sausages, terrines, galantines, pates .... with a side salad, pickles & gerkins mean heaven to me. This is exactly what I had for lunch at a beautiful family bistro, Le Petit Zinc, while sightseeing in Annecy. It was brilliant!

MEGEVE AT NIGHT

2011-02-22T16:16:00.001+08:00

A good shot of Dora with the village square as background, complete with the Swarovski crystal-decorated Christmas tree that is still lit, against the upmarket flagship store Allard which, by the way, is a big family name around Megeve. While skiers and families are abound during the day, the town becomes a bit desolate at night. It was about 9pm and minus 2C when this was taken, and the four of us were the only stragglers roaming the streets.

MORNING RITUAL

2011-02-22T15:05:00.003+08:00

Tabac Saint Paul is where The Pasha and I start our day. The door on the left is for the Financial Times and International Herald Tribune, and to the right is a cafe that oozes friendliness .... at 730am in the morning. My job is to order the 'deux cafe' while my mate gets the papers. The 30-minutes of silence that follows, to catch up with what goes on around the world, while we frolick, is scarosanct. In this particular week we watched the mind boggling game of geopolitical dominoes in Tunisia, Egypt and later in Bahrain, Yemen and Libya. Our next stop is Le Fournil de Megeve, the ever popular patissier next door for fresh croissants and baguettes so we can prepare breakfast for our better-halves. I am told this is what men do in France? After a week of following The Pasha around the village this Chinaman became his retinue. 'Where is the Chinois' they asked, on our last day, when I did not show up. How can one not love this civilized life style?

LA CINTRA

2011-02-22T02:38:00.003+08:00

Our first meal at Megeve was at La Cintra, next to the town square, alfresco under a bright but not exactly warm winter sun. By the way if you like 'people watching' La Cintra offers front row seats. I had sauteed veal kidneys on pasta and for Dora, a beautifully poached perch caught locally. Both well cooked, and super delicious. We were so impressed we returned for dinner as their daily special, Slow Cooked Head of Veal or 'Tete de Veau' was just too tempting to pass. Served on a trevet of colorful and tasty veggies it was a well orchestrated mix of textures between the cheek, the tongue and a couple of morsels I could not recognize but was assured they belonged to the same calf. The dish was the best of regional French fare. The restaurant was full, and extremely family oriented as it was winter break for French schools. We loved the scene of French parents teaching their kids the very art of culinary appreciation at an early age, some cannot be any older than 10 .... way to go!

CHAIR IN HEAVEN

2011-02-21T17:18:00.000+08:00

It will take many pictures to explain the setting of our chalet, Squaw Valley, as it is called. I must show you this particular one though, as it is worth 'a thousand words' .... not words I wrote, but words I read. This old, classic leather chair is tucked away in a small loft accessible from my side of the bed, via a steep and small wooden staircase made from drift wood. The sky light directly overhead makes it a perfect spot for reading, be it night or day. What you see is natural lighting, and I love sitting here alone to start my mornings. Equipped with my Kindle, this is my favorite spot when there is a free moment, not that we have too many of those. The book I chose is 'My LIfe in France' by Julia Child, which is very appropriate for this visit, and on this very chair.

MEGEVE!

2011-02-21T16:57:00.000+08:00

We received an invitation 6-weeks ago from my college pal and fellow Beelzebubs, alias 'The Pasha', and his lovely consort to spend time with them in Megeve, a French ski resort an hour from Geneva Airport. I am the antithesis of an athelete, Dora and I do not ski, and we have never stayed in a chalet so the obvious answer was 'yes'. The game plan is : 1-week to take in the Alpine spirit using Megeve as our base, then to Geneva to exeprience what it is like to live in, arguably, the most expensive city in Europe if not the world, and to close, a quick round in London to see friends. Needless to say these 2 weeks will be interspaced by 'eating opportunities', so aptly coined by my J&J mentor of yester years, Russ Powderly in Sydney.

I cannot tell you how totally overwhelmed we were by the first glance of this rustic chalet, tugged away in this lovely resort town, with all the trappings of a luxury hotel. It is literally 5-minutes away from everything but one gets the immediate feel of home as one opens the door. The ambience is drastically different from our Asia biased definition of a sea & sun resort, marked by a warm and ever glowing fire as the epicenter. Say hello to a relaxed Dora, in our living room!

NEW YEAR'S EVE 2010

2011-01-23T23:27:00.001+08:00

This was taken at Richardson's Bistro of the Lodge, the A$400 a night resort hotel at the fringe of Freycinet National Park. It was the end of a long day, when we started 12-hours ago from Hobart in the morning. The hotel was full and everyone was dressed up for New Year's Eve at the main dining room. We were at the other end of the dress code and tired but on recommendation from a local kayak instructor the girls met we ended up at this lovely oasis. It was 8pm, still light, and the sun was about to set. Needless to say, we did not have a booking. The Bistro was very busy with family business, kids, baby carriers were everywhere. Then, like magic, a table next to the picture window, with a superb view of yet another beautiful bay, and the #8 sign prominently displayed was available ... for us! If that was not a good way to end 2010 and to start 2011 we do not know what is. It was a very special, very warm but very different New Year's Eve for the 4 of us. Dora's 'V' was proof!

If you visit Freycinet make sure you drop by the Bistro, look for the Lodge. Their dark mushroom soup with homemade loaf, and local mussels poached in white wine were just out of this world.

HADLEYS HOTEL

2011-01-23T22:51:00.002+08:00

We stayed at the Hadleys Hotel right in the middle of town on our first night in Hobart. Built by convict labor, a huge resource by the way that built most of the infrastructure on this huge island, the hotel was opened in 1834. At that time Hobart was a launch pad for everything that had anything to do with exploring the Antarctic since it was 'the closest point'. Here is a fun story. One prominent explorer, whose name escaped me, actually beat the famous Captain Scott to the South Pole. Returning to Hobart in triumph, he stayed at the Hadleys but was 'poorly treated because he was given a room that he could hardly move around'. The hero of his times was so pissed off (pardon the language I am sure that was precisely how he must felt) 'he shaved, put on a change of clothes, and walked across the street to the post office to send his legendary telegram to announce to the world his conquest of the South Pole'. I bet you did not know this piece of Tassie history.

I was so impressed I could almost feel his presence that night. I believe we were sleeping on that same bed he slept in, albeit a larger room. Heritage, memories, history ... yes ... but modern day hospitality comforts ... well, what can I say?

BAD EXPERIENCE

2011-01-22T18:32:00.003+08:00

While we were totally mesmerized by the natural beauty of Tasmania we ran into a few incidents that dampened our enthusiasm. One area is service attitude. As a family we are 'low key' travelers, we are always conscious, and we always respect the local way of doing things. During our 4-day visit we were treated poorly in a few places. We cannot help but get the distinct feeling that while the locals welcome tourist revenues, they may not welcome tourists. I can only use the word 'rude' to describe these unfortunate encounters, one of them is at a small eatery in the town of Swansea.

The Lonely Planet named 'The Ugly Duck Out as one of the best spots for Fish & Chips' according to a survey by either a Sydney or Melbourne paper which I forgot. We found it, on the way to Freycinet. I do not want to bother you with details, the bottom line is; the fish must be 'fresh' out of the freezer right before it was cooked, and their service attitude was obviously in an even deeper freezer. I think Dora paid A$10 or $12 for a single serving, and that did not include ketchup or tartar sauce, at another A$1.5 extra. Hello? This was 2-days after Mures so I knew exactly what Fish & Chips standards should be. The Ugly Duck Out should try duck, instead of fish, in my view.

As a vegetarian Adrea was the lucky one, she passed. As for me, I will double if not triple check Lonely Planet eatery recommendations from now on.

SYDNEY - HOBART 2010

2011-01-22T18:02:00.000+08:00

We had the fortune of good timing. On the day of our arrival, December 29th 2010, the first wave of yachts were coming in for the finish. The Sydney-Hobart Race is a serious challenge for serious sailors. I believe a handful were consumed by this unforgiving patch of water between the Continent and Tasmania. A card-carrying landlubber, I used to 'play sailor' and competed in lame harbor races in Hong Kong, the Sunset Series with the Royal HK Yacht Club on a Sonata 24. This open water game is wonderful to watch but it is not for everyone, and it is definitely not for me. Hobart came alive though, cheering on the sailors, offering them and loads of tourists like us the Tassie Food Festival, the Salamanca Open Market and so on. I love this picture, taken right after her 'victory jive' to cross the line as either the 4th or 5th to finish. To give you an idea, two days later slower boats were still arriving, in admirable sporting spirits.

HOBART EATS

2011-01-22T17:45:00.001+08:00

If you like seafood of any variety Hobart and its vicinity has a lot to offer. Do not expect Michelin style dishes or fusion (that unappetizing word) presentations, but look for 'Tassie comfort food'. MURES, right on the waterfront is a classic, and I confirm their Fish & Chips is as legendary as people attest. Where else would you be presented with a batter menu, in addition to a list of 'what is left' in the freshly filleted fish department that are worthy of the drill. This is exactly what MURES offered when we sat down for a late lunch. 'Sorry, we only have 2 pieces of Flathead which should not be cooked in beer batter'. Yes, Chef! The lightness of the batter, the beautiful texture of recently caught fish, the bitterness of the arugula and perfectly sea-salted chips will send your taste buds to heaven, as you levitate. MURES is a must! It is not cheap, even for lunch, with the A$ sky high but this experience alone would make it worthwhile.

BARILLA BAY Oyster Farm & Restaurant is another choice of ours. It is located near the town of Cambridge along the Tasman Highway. Established in 1980, it is one of the prime sites to produce the finest quality Pacific Oysters when they were first introduced to Australia. 'Clean estuarine waters & total tidal water replacement' apparently did the trick. Oysters are brought straight from the farm to the kitchen on a daily basis, they do not get any fresher. We ordered this platter called 'Shucking Awesome' - what a fantastic name - which was 30 oysters presented in wild imagination eg crushed almond with salsa verde, cucumber & yuzu jelly, fresh pear & ver juice and, of course, the classic shallot & red wine vinaigrette, Kilpatrick & Rockefeller. I am a purist on downing oysters. Despite all the fanfare the best way is still a few drops of lemon juice and I stop right there ... 'au naturel'! At A$1 per oyster we reckoned it is not going to break the bank so we feasted like there is no tomorrow. Being high in Vitamin E and zero in fat these babies are perfect for my diet. It was already dark when we arrived, it would be much more fun to take a tour of the oyster farm first before you indulge. Do not miss this one.

'PALACIO NG'

2011-01-22T12:16:00.001+08:00

Regina & Peter generously hosted us in Melbourne for a few days before our hop to Tassie. We stayed at their palacial home and this was taken at 6am in the morning of our departure. Always a sage counsel to me, Peter preached years ago, when we were partners at RRA, the concept that at retirement one must live in one's largest property because one will need space, lots of space ... 'face to face with one's spouse 24-7 could be a challenge', he advised. Daman lives his words and this is the end game, complete with swimming pool, tennis court and something I would die for, a large herb garden.

I do not know if it is my age but the hustle of a city like Hong Kong has lost its buzz on me. No, I am not quite ready to live in a farm in New England or become a bush dweller Down Under yet but 'tranquility' is still a luxury, even on retirement. I crave for it these days, still. People ask me what I enjoy the most since turning in the Executive Toilet Key and my answer has 2-parts (1) instead of regular hours I go to the gym whenever I like, day or night, sometimes even day and night (2) I can curl up with my Kindle in my reading sofa, the best spot at our home, then read ... read and read, until it is time for a nap. $ cannot buy, as the saying goes.